A/C & IT IS HOT OUTSIDE
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8
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From: Odessa, Tx
A/C & IT IS HOT OUTSIDE I got a problem, The other day I was driving home from work and my car died on me while I was driving. It's standard so I'm thinking okay I got it in to high of a gear since I was decreasing my speed to stop. So when I turned my car back on I notice my A/C was blowing hot air, It was like a 100 outside that day. We looked at the car and notice the belt was still on and it was turning but their is no heat. Their is plenty of antifreeze so to be honest with you I have no idea what is the matter. (Maybe the compressor) It a 2001 w/ about 50K miles on it. =(
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,399
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, FL
There are some fuses/relay you can check if the compressor isn't coming on. The PCM will also keep the compressor from coming on for low/high pressure when something goes wrong. I do home AC but leave car AC to the guys who know what they're doing - I've seen signs around here advertising "Free AC Check" at various shops.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,399
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, FL
PCM is the car's computer. The compressor has a "clutch" on it that goes on and off even though it's always spinning. BTW, if it has a leak and not working because of low pressure the car will not throw a SES light. You can also look around all the AC piping/connections and see if there's a light film of referigerant oil which would indicate a leak. Sorry, wish I could help more.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 875
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From: Finland
Yeah thats waaayyyyyy too much, it may not even be the problem... If you cant immediately find the leak a temporary fix is to add more Freon, temporary as in it might last weeks, months, years or just plain days... The leak could however be anywhere from lines to the condesor, bad o-rings, etc... They also sell kits to find leaks.
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If it is the clutch, you're going to have to get a new compressor (they aren't sold seperately)
First off, get the freon level checked, then see if the compressor is bad, if you have to get the diagnostic done at a dealer (should be cheaper than the $1k
First off, get the freon level checked, then see if the compressor is bad, if you have to get the diagnostic done at a dealer (should be cheaper than the $1k
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Look at the compressor with the car running and the a/c off, the center should not be turning, just the pulley around it. When you turn the a/c on you should hear a click and the center should start turning. This is the clutch.
If the clutch is not kicking on, there is a few things that could be wrong. One of which being the clutch is fried, but they will usually go out over time, not just all at once. If you turn the a/c on, and rev the car, it will sometimes enguage the clutch. The only true way to check is to unplug the connector from the side of the compressor and use a volt-meter. It should read 0 (or close to) volts in the off position and 12+ in the on position.
Another reason the clutch is not coming on is there is not enough freon in the system, there is a pressure switch on the liquid line going into the firewall (beside the passenger side valve cover) that tells the computer "Hey we've got freon, go for launch". This also tells the computer "Holy **** the pressure is too high, kick the fans on".
Now, if the clutch DOES kick on, and it's not cooling, the compressor might be bad. This is another thing that you would notice over time, mine sounded like it threw a rod and lasted about another 2 months after it started, gradually getting less-cold. A new OEM compressor (AC Delco) is going to cost over $400, while a re-manufactured one will cost $280 or so w/ no warranty, $350 or so WITH warranty. The installation price is going to change place to place.
If the clutch is not kicking on, there is a few things that could be wrong. One of which being the clutch is fried, but they will usually go out over time, not just all at once. If you turn the a/c on, and rev the car, it will sometimes enguage the clutch. The only true way to check is to unplug the connector from the side of the compressor and use a volt-meter. It should read 0 (or close to) volts in the off position and 12+ in the on position.
Another reason the clutch is not coming on is there is not enough freon in the system, there is a pressure switch on the liquid line going into the firewall (beside the passenger side valve cover) that tells the computer "Hey we've got freon, go for launch". This also tells the computer "Holy **** the pressure is too high, kick the fans on".
Now, if the clutch DOES kick on, and it's not cooling, the compressor might be bad. This is another thing that you would notice over time, mine sounded like it threw a rod and lasted about another 2 months after it started, gradually getting less-cold. A new OEM compressor (AC Delco) is going to cost over $400, while a re-manufactured one will cost $280 or so w/ no warranty, $350 or so WITH warranty. The installation price is going to change place to place.
ahhh finally after eleventy billion searches Mine did exactly what yours did Blur. There is pressure in the accumulator. the clutch engages. The fuses are good (I hope I cheked the right ones??) Over 1 day it started sounding funny and then eventually stopped sounding funny and started blowing hot air.
Thanks for all the good info Blur!! I think that's the second time you've helped me out
Thanks for all the good info Blur!! I think that's the second time you've helped me out
