How To Seafoam Your Car
#1081
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When I switched to an LS6 intake I noticed a lot of build up on the intake ports so I decided to use MCCC. I got the intake on, when through the whole MCCC process, started it back up and got one little puff of smoke, kind of dissappointed. I then realized that my OPSU was wasn't working so I pulled the intake again and the intake ports on the heads were noticeably cleaner. Not clean, but cleaner. Kind of wish I would've taken pictures, maybe I'll do the process again this summer to try to get more of that crap out of there. Gives merrit to the idea that there doesn't have to be a smoke show to clean your engine.
On the other hand, it's hard for me to believe that one can of Seaform can cause that much smoke from burning of only the cleaning agent. I used Seafoam on my 255k mile Toyota Camry and it smoked so bad it covered my entire street, my house disappeared behind smoke. No way all that smoke came solely from burning of that one can. After the smoke cleared, the engine was running like a top.
On the subject of Gatorade, I actually saw someone pour water into their intake to clear out carbon deposits. I tried to talk him out of it but he swore by it saying he'd done it for years. He poured it in, it stumbled and started back up with a smoke show. Thought for sure it would hydrolock, but it didn't. Some people....
On the other hand, it's hard for me to believe that one can of Seaform can cause that much smoke from burning of only the cleaning agent. I used Seafoam on my 255k mile Toyota Camry and it smoked so bad it covered my entire street, my house disappeared behind smoke. No way all that smoke came solely from burning of that one can. After the smoke cleared, the engine was running like a top.
On the subject of Gatorade, I actually saw someone pour water into their intake to clear out carbon deposits. I tried to talk him out of it but he swore by it saying he'd done it for years. He poured it in, it stumbled and started back up with a smoke show. Thought for sure it would hydrolock, but it didn't. Some people....
3 things come to mind, method/process of delivery of "seafoam" and catalytic converters, MCCC vs Seafoam
you stated you used 2 different cleaning agents, each product will react differently, you contradicted your own statement!!!
seriously doubt if you were at removing carbon from you camry outside on the street in front of your house that you were not using a controlled delivery device(<--key statement) to know how much agent is being injected into the engine, more cleaning agent will produce more smoke or vice versa.
Vehicles with catalytic converters will produce more smoke (example: seafoam is a given), again another chemimcal reaction process inaddition to the combustion process, inaddition to the delivery process.
Besides you have shown no proof the actual amount of carbon that was in the toyota camry before the seafoam to afterwards, you have only statements no facts.
I would actually tell users to use plain old distilled water to decarbon the engine if they were going through the injection process of cleaning their engines while it is running.
Last edited by camcamaro1991; 03-02-2011 at 10:49 AM.
#1082
Woah there
I was just stating a couple of my experiances. One using MCCC and seeing the results on the intake ports without smoke. And one using Seafoam on a Toyota Camry with a smoke show and results.
Camry got about 3/4 of the can poured into the intake. Before Seafoam there was noticable pinging from the engine due to detonition, especially under load. After the Seafoam I couldn't hardly get it to ping no matter what load I was putting on the engine.
1. Both were delivered into the intake via a hose connected to a port on the TB.
2. Both cars have cats.
3. One used Seafoam and one used MCC, yes I explained that.
My statement was that using MCCC in my Camaro didn't smoke and worked, and using Seafoam in my Camry smoked out the block and worked. My point was smoke doesn't really mean it works or it doesn't. Appologies if my typing came across as a contridiction.
I attached a hose to the nozzle of the Seafoam can and sprayed directly into the engine via a port on side of the TB. Wasn't the whole can, maybe a 3/4, I didn't really use exact measurements or any delivery device other than a hose.
The cars both have cats but the cats on the Camaro were newer than the original cats on the Camry. Good point there, a lot of that smoke might be coming from the agent reacting to the carbon and gunk in the anciant converters as opposed to the engine itself.
That's ture, I don't have any facts or specifics on how much it helped clean out the Camry. All I know for certain is the car did run a hell of a lot better with much less detonation.
I'd be worried about hydrolock. I guess distilled water would be better, this guy just filled up a conainter with tap water and walked right over and dumped it.
I was just stating a couple of my experiances. One using MCCC and seeing the results on the intake ports without smoke. And one using Seafoam on a Toyota Camry with a smoke show and results.
Camry got about 3/4 of the can poured into the intake. Before Seafoam there was noticable pinging from the engine due to detonition, especially under load. After the Seafoam I couldn't hardly get it to ping no matter what load I was putting on the engine.
2. Both cars have cats.
3. One used Seafoam and one used MCC, yes I explained that.
seriously doubt if you were at removing carbon from you camry outside on the street in front of your house that you were not using a controlled delivery device(<--key statement) to know how much agent is being injected into the engine, more cleaning agent will produce more smoke or vice versa.
I'd be worried about hydrolock. I guess distilled water would be better, this guy just filled up a conainter with tap water and walked right over and dumped it.
#1083
I have a few questions before I do this.
I have an LT1 car, so it's still the same. I poured a can into the gas tank so far. Next, I'll pour half a can into the crankcase, let the car for around 10min, and change the oil. Lastly, I got Mopar Combustion Cleaner; but my question is where do I spray it into? Directly into the throttle body? Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks
I have an LT1 car, so it's still the same. I poured a can into the gas tank so far. Next, I'll pour half a can into the crankcase, let the car for around 10min, and change the oil. Lastly, I got Mopar Combustion Cleaner; but my question is where do I spray it into? Directly into the throttle body? Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks
#1084
Banned
iTrader: (2)
I have a few questions before I do this.
I have an LT1 car, so it's still the same. I poured a can into the gas tank so far. Next, I'll pour half a can into the crankcase, let the car for around 10min, and change the oil. Lastly, I got Mopar Combustion Cleaner; but my question is where do I spray it into? Directly into the throttle body? Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks
I have an LT1 car, so it's still the same. I poured a can into the gas tank so far. Next, I'll pour half a can into the crankcase, let the car for around 10min, and change the oil. Lastly, I got Mopar Combustion Cleaner; but my question is where do I spray it into? Directly into the throttle body? Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thanks
Let sit for 2 hours, or more if possible. Put the vacuum line back on. Start it up and let it idle for about 10 min. Then go for a VERY EASY drive for about 15 minutes under mellow normal throttle. Then slowly and gradually accelerate to 60-70mph, then back down. Then do that again. If its very smooth with no hesitation or misfires both times....you're ready for a WOT throttle run.
Done.
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#1085
Get the engine fully up to operating temp........Pop the PCV vacuum line off.....pop a foot or two of 3/8" heater hose, or any kind of hose that fits.....let the engine idle.....spray the entire can in......BUT, make sure you have someone ready to shut the engine off RIGHT BEFORE the can runs out.
Let sit for 2 hours, or more if possible. Put the vacuum line back on. Start it up and let it idle for about 10 min. Then go for a VERY EASY drive for about 15 minutes under mellow normal throttle. Then slowly and gradually accelerate to 60-70mph, then back down. Then do that again. If its very smooth with no hesitation or misfires both times....you're ready for a WOT throttle run.
Done.
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Let sit for 2 hours, or more if possible. Put the vacuum line back on. Start it up and let it idle for about 10 min. Then go for a VERY EASY drive for about 15 minutes under mellow normal throttle. Then slowly and gradually accelerate to 60-70mph, then back down. Then do that again. If its very smooth with no hesitation or misfires both times....you're ready for a WOT throttle run.
Done.
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#1094
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Man...I guess people are just gonna keep using SeaFoam to TRY to clean their top ends............
If you're gonna waste your time with a liquid like SeaFoam to do this.....for gods sake, at least use the PCV vacuum port to administer the SeaFoam into the intake....this way the liquid, once it gets sucked in, will at least travel the length of the intake and get picked up by all 8 runners. Most will get sucked up by the front 4 runners and the rear 4 runners will get MUCH less...but at least its not going into the rear of the intake (brake booster line) and fighting the incoming air from the throttle body like salmon swimming upstream..... lol
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If you're gonna waste your time with a liquid like SeaFoam to do this.....for gods sake, at least use the PCV vacuum port to administer the SeaFoam into the intake....this way the liquid, once it gets sucked in, will at least travel the length of the intake and get picked up by all 8 runners. Most will get sucked up by the front 4 runners and the rear 4 runners will get MUCH less...but at least its not going into the rear of the intake (brake booster line) and fighting the incoming air from the throttle body like salmon swimming upstream..... lol
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#1095
12 Second Club
iTrader: (49)
Now...I haven't been in this thread since it was about 15 pages long nor have I used seafoam since then. I am also on my phone at work and would like to know where I fell out of the loop on Why you wouldn't use seafoam to clean the top end.
No I don't have access to a computer and I don't feel like searching thru 55 pages to find my answer, also I don't have the patience to wait until I get home. So if someone could enlighten me on that I'd be pleased.
No I don't have access to a computer and I don't feel like searching thru 55 pages to find my answer, also I don't have the patience to wait until I get home. So if someone could enlighten me on that I'd be pleased.
#1097
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Now...I haven't been in this thread since it was about 15 pages long nor have I used seafoam since then. I am also on my phone at work and would like to know where I fell out of the loop on Why you wouldn't use seafoam to clean the top end.
No I don't have access to a computer and I don't feel like searching thru 55 pages to find my answer, also I don't have the patience to wait until I get home. So if someone could enlighten me on that I'd be pleased.
No I don't have access to a computer and I don't feel like searching thru 55 pages to find my answer, also I don't have the patience to wait until I get home. So if someone could enlighten me on that I'd be pleased.
The smoke show is mainly that SeaFoam getting sucked up when the engine is started later on. I'd be willing to bet that if someone does a Brake Booster Line SeaFoam job, a whole can, then removes their intake BEFORE starting the engine, they will pour allot of SeaFoam onto the ground. Then reinstall it and start the engine......no smoke show. Fluids of any kind are not meant to go through an intake where AIR should be going through.
If you pour it too fast, the rear two cylinders almost stall the engine because they're getting drowned out by the liquid.
You also run the risk of getting too much SeaFoam into a cylinder and hydra-locking the engine...BYE-BYE engine.
They make products that do this job properly....Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) and GM has one also. They are FOAM.......so when you spray them into the FORWARD PCV vacuum port this foam travels with the incoming air from the TB and travels to ALL 8 cylinders, (((unlike using the brake booster line and the SeaFoam having to fight against that flow of incoming air))). Which is doesn't, it gets sucked up by the rear two cylinders only. This foam also expands as it sits, so it bloats itself throughout the intake, runners, heads and cylinders...touching all of the inside surfaces to eat away the build-up of crap inside. Fluids can't stick to walls and ceilings, they fall to the bottom from gravity. This foam sits and eats.
I did two full cans of SeaFoam in one week....until I popped my head up and said, "what the hell am I doing, this is a joke." The next week I did one can of MCCC, and it smoked more than both SeaFoam treatments combined.
SeaFoam is GREAT for the gas and to clean out the crankcase during an oil change.
I have been using SeaFoam for almost 14 years in my 1998 T/A. Every 3-4 months a put a full can into 1/8-1/4 of a tank of gas to clean my entire fuel system, from gas tank to filter to lines to injectors to valves. I personally don't use it for oil changes, I use GUNK engine flush at every oil change.
Thats it...........
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#1098
learn as you go right? lol guess ima buy that Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner and put that thru the pcv. so one whole can of that stuff in the pcv damn thats seems like alot
#1099
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Most important thing....DO NOT go WOT or heavy throttle until the engine can slowly and gradually accelerate up to about 70mph with absolutely NO hesitations or missing. When you can do that a couple times...then you can do a hard WOT run.
Not all engines will smoke.....some engines just don't or don't do allot. Thats ok, it just wasn't that dirty inside.
Post up your results.
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#1100
Seafoamed my car today. Was really nervous about the whole thing. It was a pain in the *** to get that clip to move back down the hose so I could detach it. I turned the car on with the hose hanging out, and it was trying to die! Idling around 500RPM or so. So I got in and gave it a light rev, then it started idling around 2,000 RPM. I only dumped 1/3 the can in, and the engine didn't stall out. Anyways, let it sit for 20 minutes and started it back up with no problems. Took it for a "spirited" drive and got about 2-3 small puffs of smoke out the back. Since then I can't say I have noticed anything different about the car, fuel economy seems the same, power feels the same, I want to say the idle feels a tad bit smoother, car doesn't shake as much as it used to, but that was it. I guess this just gives me peace of mind in knowing the engine is cleaner, no real
SOTP difference.
SOTP difference.