98camaroLS1M6

iTrader: (35)

Anything extra I need to do when I drain the old oil out and put the new synthetic in?

stockz

Never go back to SHITTY conv. Oil .. I use Royal purple, started with Moble1

also buy one of those magnetic drain plugs, check it every oil change for parts

ChocoTaco369

i'd recommend you seafoam your oil. buy a can of seafoam and dump half into the crankcase 100 miles before your oil change. it'll help get that conventional oil out. don't run the oil with seafoam in it for more than 100 miles. it really cleans out the crankcase and it'll be absolutely filthy, guaranteed he dirtiest oil you've ever seen come out of your car.

98camaroLS1M6

iTrader: (35)

Thanks for the tip!

ChocoTaco369

np. my first oil change after i bought my car, i went GC 0W-30. i had no clue what oil was in there - conventional or synthetic - let alone brand. i seafoamed it. came out black as coal and thick as syrup. been running GC 0W-30 ever since

98camaroLS1M6

iTrader: (35)

Who sells sea foam in our area?

ActionJack

There is a real good write up in one of the stickies on Seafoam and where to get it.

LINK: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/534376-how-seafoam-your-car.html

ChocoTaco369

autozone, napa, advance auto...all those stores have it for ~$5-$6 a bottle. read my sticky that action jack posted. i put a lotta time into that baby

98camaroLS1M6

iTrader: (35)

so step 2 in your write is all I need to do right? Nice write-up.

Cld069

iTrader: (2)

I had a question similar to this I just wasnt 100% sure of my own opinion and wanted to avoid ridicule.

Ive "heard" that switching from conventional to synthetic in higher miles might cause some problems such as leaks. The detergents in the synthetic oil clean out the dirt and whatnot thats blocking the leaks and it could lead to some issues.

Can Chocotaco or someone elaborate with this and tell me if its plausible or bs. For the record I was told this by a professional, not just some local.

ChocoTaco369

yes, but it wouldn't hurt to do all three if you have some time.

i honestly don't know. some say yes, some say no. personally, i don't think it would cause any serious leaks because if it leaks with one oil, it should leak with others. however, the theory does make some sense. i don't think we'll ever get a solid answer to this question.

Cld069

iTrader: (2)

Right on, well the previous owner had a GT so Im hoping he knew how to take car of a car. Im going to seafoam my car and run synthetic from now on. Hopefully I wont get any problems. My engine is pretty clean top to bottom and I havnt seen any signs of leaks so I think all should go well. thanks for the input.

davidadavila

im am new at this so i guess just open the the cap where i put my oil in and throw some seafoam in there?

Swang

iTrader: (3)

good write up, very good write up. I got a question though, I'm switching from organic to synthetic, whenever i dump this stuff in, should I do it with the organic oil still in it, or switch to synethetic, do it, then change the oil again?

dannyual777

I can't comment on the seafoam thing but I just recently switched over to synthetic oil. I've owned my car since new and it only had 16,000 miles. I wish I could drive it more . I wanted to make sure that it was completely, 100% broken in and the rings seated as much as they were going to be before I switched.

Anyway, I had the dreaded "piston slap" that many LS1 owners have. I still have it but the synthetic oil has reduced the amount by a huuuuuge margin! I mean that its almost a non-issue now!

The "extra slipperyness" of the oil makes it take just a bit longer to warm up and, so far, it seems that my gas mileage has inched up just a bit as well! Synthetic oil is in every crankcase in my garage/driveway now!

Kage

iTrader: (11)

Yeah wtf were you thinking in the first place??

NoSlowSS

Just covering the obvious, but you are changing out the oil filter too, right? Group consensus says avoid FRAM like the plague and use something else. I personally use the Walmart SuperTech brand after learning it is made by Champion Labs... same place that makes a large number of other quality filters. There's a site online that dissects the filters and compares their construction- maybe google around and look for it (as will I).

I'd also recommend Seafoaming for good measure. I have completed doing my truck and have yet to drain the oil in the car. The oil that came out of the truck was absolutely nasty... chunks and everything. FWIW, it smoked but nothing insane. My car has over 105,000 miles and really didn't smoke at all. I was amazed. Still I can tell the oil is dirtier than usual on the dip stick.

My one recommendation in addition to following Choco's write up is to drain the nasty oil out, and run a cheap synthetic with new filter and a little more seafoam through the oil for a couple hundred miles and then change it back to the quality stuff and another new filter. I say this because there was so much crap coming out of the drain hole... I couldn't get all the nasty crap out of the system in one change alone. The extra step should allow you to flush the remaining garbage out rather than having the left over chunks clog your oil filter.

NoSlowSS

Oil filter comparisons I mentioned in my previous post:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters.html

Mr Incredible

To answer you question, no, you don't have to do anything special to start using synthetic oil in your car. Not for fake synthetic nor real synthetic.

I have heard it mentioned that Mobil1 likes to seep/weep more than other oils, but with your low mileage I wouldn't think you'd have all that much to worry about.

If you should develop weeps or seeps you can always try some other oil. You may even try a high mileage oil for a while, as they have additives that are designed to increase seal swell.

Or, you could stick with a good quality conventional oil at 3 to 4k mile change intervals. There are many that will tell you you're killing your car, but they are clueless and simply regurgitating stuff they learned from other clueless people.

The key is to use a weight proper for your application and a good quality filter. No Frams.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

No leaks here after the change at 73k to synthetic. I am running Amsoil and both the 0-30 and 5w40 are much noisier than the dino 10-30 that was in there. It didn't make any noise before but now on decel there is a lot of ticking/clacking going on. When I quiet my exhaust down I know I am going to really hate it