160 tstat for daily driver?
160 tstat for daily driver? Replacing tstat and was wondering if I should go ahead and put in a 160 degree or just go with stock...I dont race it just drive 70 miles a day highway
I don't think it is a great idea at all...the engine needs to be at a certain operating temp to get all of the moisture out of the oil. During the winter months, this will be the most problematic due to the lower ambient temps. Since you are not racing it, there is no reason to do this at all. Stick with the stock thermostat.
If you want to see what happens to an engine that doesn't get up to operating temps, keep a close eye on the internal/external engine sections. Seems like every year, usually around winter time, people start complaining about finding weird sludge **** on the underside of their oil fill caps. Common problem with people that have a short commute to work where the oil doesn't get up to operating temps (which happens well after the engine coolant temps get up to operating temps).
If you want to see what happens to an engine that doesn't get up to operating temps, keep a close eye on the internal/external engine sections. Seems like every year, usually around winter time, people start complaining about finding weird sludge **** on the underside of their oil fill caps. Common problem with people that have a short commute to work where the oil doesn't get up to operating temps (which happens well after the engine coolant temps get up to operating temps).
something else that comes along with a lower stat is the usage of the fans....there going to get alot more wear on them on, seeing as there going to have to be on alot more....and if your its your dd i would advise against it
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I've found zero gains going to a lower temp t-stat on LS1 cars. In the LT1/L98 world, it's a different story due to their aluminum intakes getting heat soaked.
I'd advise sticking with the stock 186F stat and lowering fan temps to keep the motor in the 195-205 range. This seems to work the best for me.
PS. Running the fans a little more often than stock isn't going to have much impact on their lifespan. Right around 80,000 miles I hotwired the fans to run non-stop once the ignition was on in my old '89 Formula, and even with 110,000 miles of use, the stock fans still worked fine when I sold it.
I'd advise sticking with the stock 186F stat and lowering fan temps to keep the motor in the 195-205 range. This seems to work the best for me.
PS. Running the fans a little more often than stock isn't going to have much impact on their lifespan. Right around 80,000 miles I hotwired the fans to run non-stop once the ignition was on in my old '89 Formula, and even with 110,000 miles of use, the stock fans still worked fine when I sold it.
Good info.
I think that the factory radiator is too small to keep up with it anyways. The lower the difference between ambient and ECT the worse the performance of the radiator. You should need a better radiator to keep the lower temp difference.
I think that the factory radiator is too small to keep up with it anyways. The lower the difference between ambient and ECT the worse the performance of the radiator. You should need a better radiator to keep the lower temp difference.
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Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
The fans only get used more if you change the fan temps though.
Without the fan mods my car still gets up to normal temps. Probably the radiators fault.
Without the fan mods my car still gets up to normal temps. Probably the radiators fault.
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
I've found zero gains going to a lower temp t-stat on LS1 cars. In the LT1/L98 world, it's a different story due to their aluminum intakes getting heat soaked.
Exactly, Most cars need a way to burn off that carbon, I cold running motor may make it stick in open loop longer hence wasting gas.
What are your closed loop tables set at? Mine come in way before the 160 degree mark. Even at negative IATs it still comes in 20 degrees before the stats rating.
Plus a 160 stat will run more like 174 temp. Just gives you a slight bit more time for it to start heating up when you pull off the highway and get stuck at a long light.
I am not saying it is a miracle device or useful. Might be nice for higway crusier though.
Plus a 160 stat will run more like 174 temp. Just gives you a slight bit more time for it to start heating up when you pull off the highway and get stuck at a long light.
I am not saying it is a miracle device or useful. Might be nice for higway crusier though.
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I had a 160ts in my Z28 which I used mostly highway. On the highway, it would stay at 160 without recalibrating the fans. Just going ~70ish in my lowered Z was enough to force some air from the lowered airdam through the radiator and kept me at 160. I never recalibrated nor did I ever have any issues with it. Did it help? I can't say - perhaps a little in denser air and more longevity with cooler operating temps all around... but I've also heard it screws with fuel curves and will decrease your gas mileage if not your power. FWIW. I didn't notice a SOTP drop in either.
I am not just buying into the whole 160 stat isn't worth it due to the fact that both stats aren't going to hold the rated thresh-hold temp during normal operation. They both run hotter than advertised.
In other words the 160 stat gives you a 175-180 ish operating temp and the factory stat made my car run at 230 while stopped in traffic. That's just too hot for me considering the small radiator. Maybe my car is a weird case but DONT TRUST THE GAUGE. Autotap your car and see what is it really running at before and after.
In other words the 160 stat gives you a 175-180 ish operating temp and the factory stat made my car run at 230 while stopped in traffic. That's just too hot for me considering the small radiator. Maybe my car is a weird case but DONT TRUST THE GAUGE. Autotap your car and see what is it really running at before and after.