ChicagoTransAm

After trying to track down a noise, found that there is a damned good chance it's motor mounts (already replaced the tranny mount with an ES poly)

I have read that going from Poly to Solid isn't a big difference but that rubber to poly was? Sooooo while I have the car in position for mounts, should I go solid?

The car won't see more than a cam. MAYBE spray someday, but right now, can't afford the maintenance if something does break. Looking for 400 rwhp on motor. It is an M6 car with a 4.10 rear and a Spohn floorpan mount torque arm.

Would "like" to keep it somewhat smooth. Not Cadillac smooth, but don't want my teeth chattering. What would you guys rec for my application?

12Gauge

iTrader: (2)

Back when the motor was out of the car I changed to poly mounts but I failed to notice a difference in vibration.

notatruews6

iTrader: (3)

Ive noticed a huge difference between the stock and polly, i wouldnt recommend the poly because they seem to get vibrations throught the car.

JD_AMG

Dont mean to jack your thread, but what noise are you trying to track down? And did you notice a (good) difference with the new tranny mount?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Huge difference between polys and solids. Polys are the way to go.

autotrix

iTrader: (5)

One vote for rubber!
I personally like the how rubber absorbs engine vibrations.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

A banging noise when I hit bumps... or when I am getting on the car a bit. Everything is tightened down, so know it's not something loose. But no, the poly trans mount did nothing to help.

EDIT: This is ChicagoTransAm... buddy left it signed in

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Poly motor mounts make a very nice difference in holding the engine in place. It could be your exhaust banging the underside of the body. I have poly motor mounts and a poly transmission mount, and there was slightly more vibration, but not enough where it was in the least bit annoying. And I'm picky about that kinda stuff.

That said, though, doing the install was the biggest bitch. I've never done an install that was that hard. If you do it, drop the headers. You'll thank me later. The time you spend doing that will more than be made up by the ease of access (plus you'll be less likely to cross-thread a bolt).

David Tannenbaum

I have been considering doing this as well. My car is old and the bushings are starting to go. Good info from everyone.

One question though...ChicagoTransAm...how exactly are you planning to get 400 RWHP with only a cam and spray? You are going to have to use a huge cam and a pretty big snort of N2O there. might as well put on at least headers, exhaust, MAF and TB to compliment. You can do all that and still keep it simple....and quite a bit less likely to break (since that is a primary concern of yours) then if you have a huge N2O shot.

V6 Bird

iTrader: (15)

I think you should do the boxing in of the stocker and be done...It makes it like a solid as it wont move any more but it also has the stock rubber to absorb the vibrations..

Ill take pics of mine when i get home and post them for you.

ChicagoTransAm

Sorry... I have:

SPEC stage 4 clutch
Upgraded Hyrdaulics on trans
Hurst shifter w/Speed Inc Short shifter
Moser 12 bolt w/4.10s 33 spline
Spohn floorpan mounted torque arm
BMR lower control arms
Hooker coated long tube headers
Hooker cat back w/electric cutout
NGK TR55s with Mallory wires

Already dyno'd on a Mustang dyno as 315rwhp as it sits (minus the cutout which was just installed). Another 85 could be had with a cam only...

Spray? Thinking 100 wet to bring it around 475ish range.. but that's a long ways off. Cam will go in first... THEN possibly some ported LS6 heads and an LS6 intake.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Maybe he can use a chain or turnbuckle to hold the motor while he's at it! Im sure it works perfectly fine, just seems ghetto fabulous to me.

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

While he failed to mention his other mods, an LS1 can easily hit 400 with everything bone stock down to the paper filter, with a cam and nitrous. We arent working with VTEC's here.

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

You're crazy, he'd need a huge shot of NO2 to hit 400rwhp in a 2000 WS6. He may even have to go as high as a 10 shot, I hope they make a jet this size...

ChicagoTransAm

Wow... YOU'RE crazy. There are SEVERAL cam only cars out there in the 400+ rwhp range. Why don't you search MS4 or TREX. Not the most insane cams and they are right there.

If you didn't realize we were talking about a cam, why don't you read the entire thread before posting?

MS4 numbers with exhaust and lid (417rwhp):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612494&highlight=cam+ms44


Fastest CAM ONLY cars
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/187330-fastest-cam-only-cars-list.html

Hmmm..10s.... Maybe you could do that with less than 400rwhp, but I can't...lol

ON SECOND THOUGHT.... WE'RE YOU JUST JOKING???? Seems to me having that many posts, you'd know better

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

This is your own thread and you don't even know what YOU were talking about. For ***** sake, the title is "Solid vs Rubber vs Poly Motor Mounts" (no discussion about cam choices whatsoever) and the tangent came in when someone asked about how you were going to achieve 400rwhp. Let me put it simply since its not obvious enough: I was being sarcastic in response to BIG BAD BLACKSS's (you/your buddy) response to David Tannenbaum (thus supporting your assertion about ease of achieving 400rwhp).

If you would have thought logically instead of jumping the gun, it would have made sense to you. ****, you even thought my reference to a "10 shot" of nitrous was meaning breaking 10s in the quarter...

Ahh yes, it looks like you figured it out....maybe.

ChicagoTransAm

Yes... I thought you may be being sarcastic (thus the last line)... wasn't sure if the 10 was a typo for a larger number... 100....1000? There are plenty here ignorant enough to post something out of this world like that.

In any case... just wanted to know about mounts. But have to let people know what kinda power I am planning on, and what I expect from the car all together to get a good answer... that's all...

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

every one thinks solid mounts are gonna shake your car apart,but they don't.as long as everything is clearanced off the floor(exhaust,ect..)the vibration is barely noticable.i dd my car and honestly can't even tell the are there anymore.plus its fun to crack the gas in park and watch the car jump instead of the motor.just my opinion,good luck either way

JD_AMG

Hmm... Could the bang also be described as a 'clunk'? Im asking because sometimes I get a clunk, which I can feel through the shifter. Like if I stomp on it in 1st, then release the gas really quick I get a kinda clunk, and I can feel it in the shifter. Or if I release the clutch to quickly I get the same clunk. I thought maybe it was because the tranny mount was allowing the tranny to move too freely, and it was hitting the floorpan or something...

BigDaddyBry

iTrader: (15)

Gotcha, no prob. Good luck with whatever mount you choose.

FWIW, I have poly motor mounts and don't regret it one bit. For your application, I don't see the benefit of going solid motor, and it may negate the attempt to stay somewhat smooth. Interior vibration increased a little in going from stock to poly for me; additionally, the engine stabilized and no longer jumped around like a tweeker. If I removed an interior panel and didn't put it back on correctly/tightly, I'd know.

Hope that helps.