best oil
#1
best oil
so what is the best oil to use for the ls1 motor. i cureently run mobile 1 5w-30 but i have heard redline 5w-30 is better and so is castrol syntec 0w-30 BUT WHAT TRUELY IS THE BEST???
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Many people here like GC 0W30 the best for an LS1.
I prefer M1 0W40 though. Much easier to find, and also a good choice for an LS1.
I prefer M1 0W40 though. Much easier to find, and also a good choice for an LS1.
#5
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Many people here like GC 0W30 the best for an LS1.
I prefer M1 0W40 though. Much easier to find, and also a good choice for an LS1.
I prefer M1 0W40 though. Much easier to find, and also a good choice for an LS1.
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All I know about that stabilizer stuff is that I played with the pinwheel advertisement thing they let sit at the counter at AutoZone LOL
But seriously if you just keep your oil clean and changed often you should have many happy driving miles. I used to use Mobil1 in my Tahoe and it seemed to like it. But it seemed to like dino oil too. Soooo??
When I first picked up my TA I was out of state and needed an oil change asap. I went to the first Jiffy Lube place I could find (honestly the first time I had been to a place like that in my life) and had it changed with regular oil. I ran it 3000 miles just fine.
Last oil change I tried this German Casrol 0w-30 everyone raves about here. I dunno, I didn't notice any difference?
I would say that oil change interval is more important than which brand or level you use.
But seriously if you just keep your oil clean and changed often you should have many happy driving miles. I used to use Mobil1 in my Tahoe and it seemed to like it. But it seemed to like dino oil too. Soooo??
When I first picked up my TA I was out of state and needed an oil change asap. I went to the first Jiffy Lube place I could find (honestly the first time I had been to a place like that in my life) and had it changed with regular oil. I ran it 3000 miles just fine.
Last oil change I tried this German Casrol 0w-30 everyone raves about here. I dunno, I didn't notice any difference?
I would say that oil change interval is more important than which brand or level you use.
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Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
why do you guys use oil that thin on an engine that comes from the factory with loose clearances? i use castrol syntec 10w30.no wonder everyone has oil consumption problems
Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
dont use oil that thin.its crasy if you plan on runnin your car hard.
ive built and raced cars for over 10 years.these engines have very loose clearances from gm.
ive built and raced cars for over 10 years.these engines have very loose clearances from gm.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...il_1_0W-40.asp
And here are the specs on Mobil 1 10W30 (for comparasion sake):
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_10W-30.asp
For 0W40:
cSt @ 40º C = 80
cSt @ 100º C = 14.3
For 10W30:
cSt @ 40º C = 62
cSt @ 100º C = 10.0
In other words, M1 0W40 is a thicker oil than 10W30 at both cool and warm temps. Just because it's rated as an 0w at cold start does NOT mean that it's a thinner oil than a 10w. If you look at the specs for both, M1 0W40 is thicker than M1 10W30 at 40c, so on a cold start in the spring/summer/fall temps, the 0W40 is actually thicker. What happens as you get into extremely cold temps, is the 0W40 has better cold cranking performance than the 10W30, and is thinner at that point. But during normal temps it's actually thicker, and it's also much thicker as things heat up as seen by the specs at 100c.
In addition, I have slightly higher oil pressure readings using 0W40 over 10W30, and my LS1 burns ZERO oil with the 0W40. And yes, the car does see WOT action.
So please, do not tell people that M1 0W40 is a "thin" oil compared to 10W30s, because that statement is false. Try looking up the specs on Castrol 10W30 and see what is listed for the cSt @40c & 100c, then compare to the M1 0W40 for your own referance.
Last edited by RPM WS6; 03-24-2007 at 01:50 AM.
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Originally Posted by roughneck86
where can i find this or is it the same as castrol syntec 0w-30
But I'm happy with the M1 0W40, plus that one is easier for me to find locally.
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5_02LS1.....booyakashaw (from da ali g, how ever its spelled)
GC 0w30 helps with the LS1 tick a little. i used it, i still have a little tick, but no where near what i had when using M1 5w30. and like the other guy said, it must say 'made in germany'. what the differance is, i dont know, but thats what you need. WS6Store cares cases of GC 0w30 for sale, $50 per case with shipping, i think. thats quite a bit more expensive then in the store, but if you dont have any auto zones withing 50 miles of you, then its worth it. theres at least 5 AZs within 10mi. of me, so i can stock up when needed.
GC 0w30 helps with the LS1 tick a little. i used it, i still have a little tick, but no where near what i had when using M1 5w30. and like the other guy said, it must say 'made in germany'. what the differance is, i dont know, but thats what you need. WS6Store cares cases of GC 0w30 for sale, $50 per case with shipping, i think. thats quite a bit more expensive then in the store, but if you dont have any auto zones withing 50 miles of you, then its worth it. theres at least 5 AZs within 10mi. of me, so i can stock up when needed.
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Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
you guys believe what you want i worked in the oil industry for 4 years.oh well this is newbie tech
I tried the GC 0w-30 and actually had a louder valvetrain than when i used RP 5w-30. With the RP, my oil pressure is a steady 50psi when the engine is warm, it was closer to 40psi with GC.
However, i didnt burn any oil in 4000 milesusing GC, and i dont burn any oil when i use RP. IMO, they are both good oils but i prefer the higher oil pressure, it seems "safer". The only bad is paying 7(RP) bucks per quart versus 5(GC).
If you try the GC, most autozones carry it, it says "European formula" on the front and Made in Germany on the back.
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ill stick with what ive used for years,the oil companies will tell you anything i know this for a fact.think about it you said you lost 10psi common sense says its thinner.ill never put a ow oil in any of my race engines.you guys can do whatever you want
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Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
you guys believe what you want i worked in the oil industry for 4 years.oh well this is newbie tech
If you choose to be ignorant to the facts, that is your option. Hopefully others will investigate for themselves, look at the facts I've posted, and make an informed decision.
PS. IMO, you are the "newbie" here.
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Originally Posted by 5_02ls1
think about it you said you lost 10psi common sense says its thinner.