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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 01:47 AM
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i have a 2000 SS a4. when the car is in neutral it idles fine but if you put it into drive and hold the break the idle jumps from 400-700. i have a 3200 stall, headers, 3.73 gears. what could be causing this?
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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any check engine lights?
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 09:40 AM
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When the brake is fully depressed, there is no more relying on the engine vacuum for assist - but what if there were a leak around the brake booster - could it cause a idle issue?
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 11:08 AM
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it doesnt have any check engine lights or any thing at all. and i think if my foot is off the brake it still does it. but again only when it is in gear so im wondering if it could be stall related or just because it is under load
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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Pull the e-brake while in gear and see if it still does it.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 11:37 AM
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it does do it when the ebrake is on and the brake is not pushed down.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Skyfire
it does do it when the ebrake is on and the brake is not pushed down.
So then its probably not brakes related. Maybe vacuum related. Did you just get the stall? Or have you had it a while and it just started doing this?

Also, you may not have a check engine light, but there could be a code pending. Do you have a scanner?
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 11:54 AM
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i dont have a scanner. i can take it to autozone if theirs can do it. i just bought the car and it had the stall in it already
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 12:52 PM
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The car drives fine once its moving though?


This could be a TPS issue, or maybe even a MAF, it could be a stall issue, in which case you would have to get the car tuned.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 12:58 PM
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yea it drives fine once its moving. can autozone pull those pending codes u were talking about?
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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They can, but do they know the difference between a pending code and an actual fault code, probably not. So if they scan it and anything comes up, its a pending code since your SES light is not on.

My suggestion is you just buy your own scanner, even if it turns out you dont need one right this second. The cheapy one at AZ is about $50-60 called a pocket scan. Works just fine for me. If you own a later model car and do your own work, these are a must.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 01:16 PM
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i was thinking about getting ls1 edit or a tuning program in the future but do not know how to tune myself or anything. would this take the place of the scanner or is the scanner necessary also? i will run it by autozone today and check it
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Skyfire
i was thinking about getting ls1 edit or a tuning program in the future but do not know how to tune myself or anything. would this take the place of the scanner or is the scanner necessary also? i will run it by autozone today and check it
If you had one of these you wouldnt need a scanner, it would be able to perform these functions. But those programs arent for the weak, do it wrong and your motor goes boom. I think those things are best left to the professionals IMO.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 08:35 PM
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alright.. i would have to learn but i certainly don't want to mess anything up so we'll just have to seep . i may pick up one of those 70 dollar scanners or just try to buy a used one. anyway i took it to autozone and it showed 6 codes. it put each of them twice.. and i have no idea why but they were:

P0140 - rear o2
P0160 - rear o2
P0405 - egr

all should have been tuned out. is that why the light didn't come on? again there was no ses light on i just had it checked. and the egr one wouldn't clear either.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Skyfire
alright.. i would have to learn but i certainly don't want to mess anything up so we'll just have to seep . i may pick up one of those 70 dollar scanners or just try to buy a used one. anyway i took it to autozone and it showed 6 codes. it put each of them twice.. and i have no idea why but they were:

P0140 - rear o2
P0160 - rear o2
P0405 - egr

all should have been tuned out. is that why the light didn't come on? again there was no ses light on i just had it checked. and the egr one wouldn't clear either.
Curious.....

Remember I said they wouldnt know what a pending code was? I was right. The reason it showed everything 2 times is because they are all set codes, meaning they are triggering your SES light, and the second time because they are also a pending/immature code(which it shows on the scanner). Car has done this since you got your hands on it? Im thinking the SES light was pulled so you wouldnt see it, and think everything was hunky dory.

P0140 - O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0160 - O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0405 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor 'A' Circuit Low

The o2 sensors have NOT been programmed out. Theres your proof. Two options, find some o2 simms, which just became a hard to find item, or go your local tuner and have them program them out, probably about $50.

The EGR code. Is your EGR equipment there? It may not be, then you need to have it programmed out also. If it is there, you can remove it and install the block off plates and program it out, or fix it. You can pick up a used EGR valve for pretty cheap around here.

I think you need to have a conversation with whomever you bought the car from, I really think they fooled you on this. Not to say the car wont run hard once you fix these very minor issues and all.

I think that about sums it up.
By all means if you need to message me I have Yahoo and AIM, feel free.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 12:05 AM
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i did talk to the guy. and the light does work because when i start the car it comes on for a second when all of them do and then turns off. but i will probably get everything tuned out. do you think that could be the cause of bad idle? and btw all the egr and that has been removed from the car
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 06:54 AM
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Well I dont know then, those codes are definitely hard codes that should have been programmed out, but are not.

Anyway, yes, those codes separate or together will make the car run not so well. I dont think a tuner should cost you more than $75 to edit those few things out. It will be a different beast. Also, is your speedo adjusted for the gear? Have them do that too if its not.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 04:17 PM
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the speedo is correct as far as i know, i go the speed limit and im right with traffic. he did have the car tuned so that was the reason i guess i figured those would have been tuned out. i also think my car might be hitting the rev limiter so i will have my shift points adjusted and i think im going to have the temp when my fan turns on turned down a little bit and do some things like that. thanks for the help!
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Skyfire
i also think my car might be hitting the rev limiter so i will have my shift points adjusted and i think im going to have the temp when my fan turns on turned down a little bit and do some things like that. thanks for the help!
If you are hitting the rev limiter, you will know it. The fans is a good idea also if it hasnt been done already.

Glad I could help.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 05:53 PM
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they want 500 for everything. it will include hp tuners module, and dyno tune with tuning out and changing anything i want. it is a very reputable place in kansas city so it looks like i may have to look for some cheap sims to get me through for a little while then i'll bet getting it tuned
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