Spitz

before i get this i already did, it gave me a timeout error last night and earlier today. ok this is really starting to bug me. i will try to be detailed as possible so please stay with me. the gf was driving along and the TA just died. wouldn't restart, once i got home i tried to crank and it would fire sometimes and lope at around 200-300 rpm, not the usual idle of 500. replaced the fuel filter to be sure. same thing. i can sometimes get it to rev as high as i want it to go but it just does the same lope thing when i let it come down. i pulled the number 1 and 3 plugs, look ok but not fantastic, scraped some carbon off and put them back in. checked the ohm resistance on the same wires, number 1 gave me 316 and the 3 gave 335. they are stock wires to the best of my knowledge. ngk plugs but no number readable. i yanked the tps and it looked ok. ohm reading were 416 at idle and 425 at WOT. not really sure where else to go. rented a DTC scanner and it came up with no codes. I'm at a loss and would like some suggestions, thanks in advance for any help. i hate taking my vehicles to a shop at all costs. my dakota went to the shop for two things: a recall (which they still f@#ked up) and to have a used engine put in (i was deployed). so i can do most things or get help to do so. thanks for reading along.

blownws6_nc

iTrader: (10)

is the fuel pump working?, just a thought, hope you get it going.

Spitz

how can i determine this without replacement? this is my first fuel related problem and hopefully my last. i do think it's the fuel pump just wanting some input. a fuel pump recommendation and write-up if possible!!! any other suggestions definitely welcome may be it's not the pump. btw it's got 116,xxx miles

therealthatguy

iTrader: (23)

just turn the key over to accesories, have someone under the back of the car(near the gas tank) and you should be able to hear it come on....

Spitz

it does come on for a little bit. but won't stay running

EndlessSummer85

that's normal as it built up pressure and stops. I would probably change out the plugs and wires as a start. The plugs being really fouled up could cause it. I would start there. Being that your car has 116xxx miles on it, it couldn't hurt.

Spitz

true, a buddy just told me if it doesn't start and throws no codes it's the fuel pump everytime. not a good omen here. i really don't want to replace it. any recommendations on fuel pumps anyone?

erikshockey

iTrader: (7)

this same prob came up on my buddys t/a a few weeks ago. the problem ended up being a simple fix. all i did was pull of the battery terminals and found that there was slight build up of corrosion. i cleaned off the contacts with a wire bush, put it back together and it fired right up and idled fine. the build up was keeping the battery from making good connection, and was not visible until the terminals were exposed.

The Hammer28

iTrader: (10)

Same problem on my 99Z. It would start, idle real low and then die. It would run and eventually idle fine if I gave it some gas on the start and held it for a while. I changed the battery out and still had the same problem. Finally, I cleaned the corrosion from the battery contacts with a wire brush and it fixed the problem.

lo_jack

iTrader: (27)

Do you have any way to measure the pressure at the rails? The pump is priming - that is good. It is only supposed to prime for a couple seconds as stated. But to what pressure it is priming is the next question.

The other mention of the battery is not a bad idea. Test the battery and the alternator and make sure all those connections are tight and clean.

Try and narrow it down to either spark or fuel, it probably is not a problem with both.

Spitz

wow i hope it's the battery i will be trying that here in a few. thanks for the help guys if that doesn't work i'll be testing the pressure. what is it supposed to be at key on and when cranking?

7901 WS6

iTrader: (6)

Key on at first and record the reading. Let stand for a few minutes and re check then start it and run at Idle, Record the reading and compare it to what the books say.

Quickin

It's not the fuel pump if you can get to WOT. Fuel pressure check is easy enough to do though. Could be a big clump of crap that broke free somewhere and immediately clogged some injectors. High mileage car and all!

Don't rule out the Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CPS). They WILL NOT always show a code on some of our cars, mine never did 2 times. And the CPS will cause the exact symptoms you're having. Its very easy to replace, drop the starter and its right there. Buy one at Advance Auto, put it in and see if fixes the problem, If it doesn't, return it for a refund, just keep it clean.

The other problems mentioned here don't just ALL OF A SUDDEN start in 1 second and turn your engine off. Bad plugs and wires can't turn the engine off either. It will run crappy for weeks or months, then you'll have a problem.

Battery corrosion is certainly a little bastard and easy to check too, as mentioned.


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Spitz

i can't get it to go WOT, maybe i didn't make that clear. i can get it up to around 3000 rrr's but no higher. it's sputtering the whole time. the battery terminal was corroded as hell, is this a common problem on these? i have a dodge and never had a problem with corrosion. the cps may be a good try. how hard was it to r&r. the truck needs one too since that's the code it's tripping for the dak, but it's intermittant so maybe i have awhile!
for the pressure check how do i do it? i know where the test port is but don't know if i turn the key on or try to start the car lemme know folks!!!

Spitz

oh yea any recommendations for fuel pumps? i found the granatelli at ws6store for 150 but was wondering if there is another that's better. would like to replace it only once ya know. any write-ups i could be directed to would also help. i've found some but the more the merrier. again thanks everyone for your help. my dak is much easier to diagnose than this thing is.

Quickin

From what I've heard, a fuel pump either works or it doesn't. Go buy a can of Sea Foam from Advance Auto. Put the entire can in a full tank, half can in a half tank. Let it run through, you could just have clogged injectors from some crap that broke free finally.

I had corrosion on my terminal a couple times but it never made my car run poorly, it will just build up to a certain leverl and one day you'll turn your key and the car won't start or you will just hear a click and the starter won;'t even get power.

As far as the pressure check......I never did it and I know you need a tool/gauge to connect to the rail. Have a mechanic do it, I do know its simple and takes a couple minutes to do.


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Quickin

Make sure you need one first. Racetronix is a badass system, it'll have you ready for heavy mods later on I think mine was like $220.00 for everything to install.


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TheLS1Kid

iTrader: (12)

To replace the fuel pump, you either have to drop the tank out the bottom or cut an access hole in the body above the tank.

I would recommend dropping the tank just because I've done it and it really isn't hard, and I didnt want to cut a hole in my car.

Daredevil_TA

iTrader: (6)

To check fuel pressure see if you can get a fuel pressure checker( see if autozone, schuck's, napa etc etc-might have one) hook it up to the schrader valve--its a valve at the end of your fuel rail that looks just like a valve stem, should be on the right fuel rail if i remember correctly- start your car an see what it reads.

Spitz

how hard on a scale of 1 to 10
1 being oil change
10 being engine swap

also if i test the pressure what should it read?