Spark Plugs...??
Spark Plugs...?? This is my first f-body and I was thinking about doing a lil tune up,,,plugs,wires,oil,air filter, etc.. Anyways I have heard that changing the plugs are a bitch to do in these cars. How hard of a job is it?? Thanks
Nah plugs arent bad, there are a couple little tricks, if you have a 99+ f-body you can remove the passenger side coil pack assembly (one peice, with 1 connecter and 4 plug wires).
If you're concerned about which plugs to run, depends on your mods, I've gone through multiple sets of NGK plugs, tr-55's and tr-6's(colder plug for higher cylidner pressures), only because I've owned 7 f-body's, but needless to say they havent failed me yet, are priced great, and they most importantly get the job done.
You're gonna need a 5/8" plug socket with a 3/8" drive wrachet, and a few short extensions (1x 1/2 " and 1x 3"), new plugs, a gapping tool, which they sell everywhere, even toys-r-us has them, Lol Just kiddin. DON'T FORGET to use anti-seize on the new plugs!!! Or you WILL be crying when you have to re-thread the heads!
Hope this helps.
If you're concerned about which plugs to run, depends on your mods, I've gone through multiple sets of NGK plugs, tr-55's and tr-6's(colder plug for higher cylidner pressures), only because I've owned 7 f-body's, but needless to say they havent failed me yet, are priced great, and they most importantly get the job done.
You're gonna need a 5/8" plug socket with a 3/8" drive wrachet, and a few short extensions (1x 1/2 " and 1x 3"), new plugs, a gapping tool, which they sell everywhere, even toys-r-us has them, Lol Just kiddin. DON'T FORGET to use anti-seize on the new plugs!!! Or you WILL be crying when you have to re-thread the heads!
Hope this helps.
Plugs will be NGK Tr-55's, wires will be your choice of MSD, Taylor, or whatever you choose, you need to gap the plugs to 55 thoughsandths of an inch also, which you can do with the gapping tool you need to buy also.
Plugs = 8 bucks (not sure if thats discounted at the shop I buy from)
Wires = 60-100 bucks depending on which you buy.
As far as new plugs helping, when I first changed the plugs when I got this car, it had 4 diff plugs in it, 1 stock, 2 bosch, 2 ngk, and 3 bosch quad tip's.... So when I changed them it made a big difference(wires help a lot to if your stockers are old).
Plugs = 8 bucks (not sure if thats discounted at the shop I buy from)
Wires = 60-100 bucks depending on which you buy.
As far as new plugs helping, when I first changed the plugs when I got this car, it had 4 diff plugs in it, 1 stock, 2 bosch, 2 ngk, and 3 bosch quad tip's.... So when I changed them it made a big difference(wires help a lot to if your stockers are old).
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Exactly what the name implies?!?! The heads in our cars are made of allum which is soft, and after you put a set of steel plugs in those holes for several thoughsand cylinder fires they dont really want to come out, I'm assuming there is some sort of gas emitted the creates some sort of crystaline structure between the plug and the head (rofl I'm totally talkin out of my *** now), the Anti-sieze creates a lubricated barrier between the Head and the plug, so they can be seperated from eachother.
Oh and Purple, your plugs do NOT need to be torque'd on!! I usually just hand tighten and a very slight snug with the wrench. Anymore and they arent commin out!
Oh and Purple, your plugs do NOT need to be torque'd on!! I usually just hand tighten and a very slight snug with the wrench. Anymore and they arent commin out!
Be thankful you dont own an LT1, those plugs would make you cry 
The Anti-Seize allows the plug threads to have less of a chance of bonding with the aluminum threads in the head. A very good preventive measure when installing new plugs. Just be careful to only apply to the treads, it can also be an 'anti-spark' if applied to the electrode.
T.E on the plugs....tight enough should do! Some people go as far as clocking the plugs for optimum performance.
The Anti-Seize allows the plug threads to have less of a chance of bonding with the aluminum threads in the head. A very good preventive measure when installing new plugs. Just be careful to only apply to the treads, it can also be an 'anti-spark' if applied to the electrode.
T.E on the plugs....tight enough should do! Some people go as far as clocking the plugs for optimum performance.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: Downers Grove, IL
[QUOTE=z28poweredlt1]Exactly what the name implies?!?! The heads in our cars are made of allum which is soft, and after you put a set of steel plugs in those holes for several thoughsand cylinder fires they dont really want to come out, I'm assuming there is some sort of gas emitted the creates some sort of crystaline structure between the plug and the head (rofl I'm totally talkin out of my *** now), the Anti-sieze creates a lubricated barrier between the Head and the plug, so they can be seperated from eachother.
QUOTE]
Actually you have two different metals, aluminum and steel, each has different properties, (electrical potentials). By putting them together in a harsh environment you get bi-metal corrosion, causing aluminum oxides or iron oxides to form on the threads of your plugs. This causes the plugs to get stuck in the heads....not good! By putting anti-sieze on the threads you are preventing this from occuring. It is good pratice.
Also, to help putting your plug wires back on put a little bit of di-electric grease in each of the plug boots. This will make them slide on and off of the plugs easily...which is nice on #8.
QUOTE]
Actually you have two different metals, aluminum and steel, each has different properties, (electrical potentials). By putting them together in a harsh environment you get bi-metal corrosion, causing aluminum oxides or iron oxides to form on the threads of your plugs. This causes the plugs to get stuck in the heads....not good! By putting anti-sieze on the threads you are preventing this from occuring. It is good pratice.
Also, to help putting your plug wires back on put a little bit of di-electric grease in each of the plug boots. This will make them slide on and off of the plugs easily...which is nice on #8.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Tx
The only difficulties I had the first time were pulling the stock plugs/wires - they were a little tight. Oh, and the last bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger side coil pack rail - a reall pain - leave that sucker off. If you have some ramps, you may want to drive up for the #8 plug. When changing from underneath the car, #8 is the easiest to accomplish of the entire set. Good luck and have fun!!!
Originally Posted by PureWS6
Actually you have two different metals, aluminum and steel, each has different properties, (electrical potentials). By putting them together in a harsh environment you get bi-metal corrosion, causing aluminum oxides or iron oxides to form on the threads of your plugs. This causes the plugs to get stuck in the heads....not good! By putting anti-sieze on the threads you are preventing this from occuring. It is good pratice.
Dude, now that you know more than you wanted to... antisieze makes it a buttload easier to take the plugs out again later. A little bit on the plug threads will make the job way less of a pain the next time. Same with silicone dielectric on the boots. (PS, not just any lube will do. Get the silicone dielectric.)
Originally Posted by Boodyrider
Thank you professor.
Dude, now that you know more than you wanted to... antisieze makes it a buttload easier to take the plugs out again later. A little bit on the plug threads will make the job way less of a pain the next time. Same with silicone dielectric on the boots. (PS, not just any lube will do. Get the silicone dielectric.)
Dude, now that you know more than you wanted to... antisieze makes it a buttload easier to take the plugs out again later. A little bit on the plug threads will make the job way less of a pain the next time. Same with silicone dielectric on the boots. (PS, not just any lube will do. Get the silicone dielectric.)
Def use antiseize. Some plugs come with it on them already. And definitely get a 3/8 extension kit. If thats the ratchet you use. I use the lil nub extension or the 3in one. Or a combo of both. Those ratchet extension kits are a must. Plus you can usually get a 3/8 to 1/4 connector or vice versa which can really help in tight spaces.
