Security light at startup=no igniton
Security light at startup=no igniton Just like the title says. When I go to start the car, I put the key in then turn the ignition. All that happens is the Security light stays on and no turnover. The power to the car is on because the radio and such work fine so its not the battery, but the ignition just seems to have been disabled (Im assuming this is due to the security light being on).
What causes this and how do I fix it because it has happened a few times now and is getting really annoying as I have to leave the car for 5-10min then retry and sometimes its fine, sometimes the whole process has to be redone.
Thanks,
Jason
What causes this and how do I fix it because it has happened a few times now and is getting really annoying as I have to leave the car for 5-10min then retry and sometimes its fine, sometimes the whole process has to be redone.
Thanks,
Jason
On The Tree
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
its your vats.... either the key is dirty, try your spare key or your key cylinder has to much play and cant read the pellet in the key..... you can either disable vats via EFIlive or a similar tuner program ... disable it by hard wiring a resistor into the vats sense wires.. or the correct way of a new key and key cylinder.... this is a common GM problem
Try cleaning the contacts of the key first. Also stick a q-tip with some rubbing alcohol in the cylinder to clean off the contacts in there. Let it dry for a min or two, then try the key.
Bad news man cuz that cost me a buck to fix! Exact same problems security light would come on and no ignition, would leave it alone come back and try it and WALAA! I took it to the dealership and they had to replace the key ignition switch(whatever its called;where you stick the key in). Cost me like $300 I don't remember exactly cuz it was like 3 years ago. They replace the switch and you also get a new key. Damn key is more than $50.
Damnit not really what I wanted to hear. Did this fix your problem for you 100%?
It just pisses me off that its completely random so I never know why it happens so as to avoid it if thats even possible.
It just pisses me off that its completely random so I never know why it happens so as to avoid it if thats even possible.
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,399
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, FL
Measure the resistance of the pelet in the key and bypass it temporarily in the connector under the steering column until you get it fixed properly - at least it won't leave you stranded somewhere.
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Verdad Gallardo If it is random, dirty key/dirty ignition/bad contacts are the only things that would do it. Oh, and once it fails you might as well just wait for 3 min, because it won't work at all until 3 min is up.
yea I figured that much out the first time sadly as I thought it may be the battery so i tried again but yea, no such luck so that sucked. I guess i will try cleaning the key. Then if it happens again I will try to get a new key made. Then if all else fails well...to the dealership I go I guess
It cost me a good buck but it took care of the job 100% and I ain't never looked back. I took it to the dealership reluctantly as well, after I took it to a electrical shop though. The guy at the shop told me to stop breaking my head and that the dealership was the only one that could fix that. So I took it since I didn't want it to leave me stranded somewhere one day(like he said it eventually would).
the same thing happend to me and i brought my z to the dealership and they said i had a broken transponder in the ignition cylinder. the whole thing cost me about $400. and a lot of headaches
Measure the resistance of the pellet in the key with a multimeter. Go to Radioshack and get the resistors that add up to your key pellet value. Under the steering column, locate the bright orange sleeve, jacketing 2 wires, unplug the connector. Cut the female connector off the end of those 2 wires leaving some wire to work with. Solder the resistors in series between the 2 wires of the female connector and heatshrink. Plug back in to complete the vats circuit.
Being as that I am completely ignorant when it comes to electrical wiring, will this be as easy as yall say? I just dont wanna go start cutting and end up screwing **** up by accident.
Just take your time. Each pack has 5 resistors in it of the same value, so even if you somehow mangled the resistors in previous attempts, you have 4 more tries.
Once you remove the connector you can take it to a work bench to solder in your resistors. Just remember the resistors have to be in series, or one after the other, and their values must add up to the value in your key pellet. The only real difficulty here is the wires are small, either 18ga or 20ga.
connector--wire1--resistor--resistor--wire2--connector...
I'd measure the key pellet and pick up your resistors first. You'll only need a multimeter for that. Then 7mm socket (2 bolts), #2 phillips (2 screws) for the panel under the steering column. Wire cutters/strippers, soldering iron, solder for the resistors and wiring. Heatshrink or electrical tape for cover.
If you leave enough wire (the 2 wires in the orange sleeve) under the dash, you can reconnect the connector without the resistors to put it back to stock config.
Once you remove the connector you can take it to a work bench to solder in your resistors. Just remember the resistors have to be in series, or one after the other, and their values must add up to the value in your key pellet. The only real difficulty here is the wires are small, either 18ga or 20ga.
connector--wire1--resistor--resistor--wire2--connector...
I'd measure the key pellet and pick up your resistors first. You'll only need a multimeter for that. Then 7mm socket (2 bolts), #2 phillips (2 screws) for the panel under the steering column. Wire cutters/strippers, soldering iron, solder for the resistors and wiring. Heatshrink or electrical tape for cover.
If you leave enough wire (the 2 wires in the orange sleeve) under the dash, you can reconnect the connector without the resistors to put it back to stock config.