Bull

iTrader: (2)

Yeah...so although I like this hobby, I am not very good at it, and usually have to learn how to do things by first failing at them. Like a rear brake job on my PBR brakes.

All I am trying to do is replace the rotors and pads, since they are worn. After way too much time and frustration, I am giving up until I get some e-help. No matter what I do, I can't get the pads to slip over the rotor...there just isn't enough clearance.

I have opened the bleeder screw and used a C-clamp to compress the piston as far as it will go.

I have a service manual, but it just isn't helping me overcome this.

There are two ways that I can see doing this. Here is the first one, that seems to be what the manual calls for:


The pads are installed in their position in the bracket, at which point you swing the empty caliper assembly into position over them. Doesn't work, too tight.

Here is the other option I can see:


Pads are installed in the caliper, and then swung up into position over the rotor and into the bracket. Hasn't worked, too tight. You can see in the pad facing you that it is getting gouged by the process.

Trying to force them into position has resulted in the metal backing plate for one of the pads to be loosened...obviously a sign that something is wrong:



So, not only do I feel like an incompetent, but I have to take the bus to work until I can get this fixed.

I'd greatly appreciate any help that you can offer.

Dave

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

are you 100% sure the piston is in the caliper all the way?
after market pad and rotors right?

the 1st picture is right, but i all ways slide the caliper all the way off the bracket then reattach

waiting2bl33d

try compressing some more. its obviously not in all the way.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Is it really possible that it is not in all the way? I clamped down pretty hard with the c-clamp...should I go Godzilla on the thing?



The rotor and pads are Raybestos service replacement parts, from Rockauto.com. I can get the numbers from the boxes if anyone here found them useful.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

yea i can see from the pic their not in all the way

slagger

iTrader: (1)

Calibers are probably no good I just had to replace my truck calibers because one was frozen together and I had to replace the flexable brake lines in the front.

Formula413

iTrader: (1)

What's up Dave. FWIW I wouldn't get too carried away trying to force the piston further in, someone told me they once broke a piston trying to do that on another car. Is this on your Formula? I haven't had to do mine yet, but I just put new pads on my Mom's Camry a few weeks ago and it didn't take too much pressure with the clamp to completely compress the piston. If I can be of any help let me know, you can look at my brakes for reference if that would be useful.

ErikElvis

iTrader: (1)

I always put the pads back into the brackets on the rotor. And I dont remember if I hit any snags but the caliper would go over them with a lil encouragement. And I just open the brakefluid resevoir. I dont mess with the bleeding screews for just a brake swap.

On a side note of PITA brake jobs. Bros jetta has weird *** brakes that you need to push the caliper in and turn it at the same time to compress them. we eventally rigged something that got it working

ErikElvis

iTrader: (1)

How much more clearence do you need do you think? is it close like an 1/8 of an inch off or like an inch?

FiredUpZ28

remove the brake reservoir cap and use a block of wood in between the C clamp and piston. You can rather throw away those shims and smear grease along the back if the pad or just sandwich the shim between the pad and piston when you put them back on. As per Haynes,they recommend putting the pads in the caliper assembly, then sliding that over the disc. Then bolt it all down.
Good luck keep us posted!

Bull

iTrader: (2)

It seems like I am pretty close...another 1/8th inch and I'd be good, I think.

I'll try some of the things mentioned here after work today, and hope for the best.

Alex, I appreciate the offer of help. I might take you up on it if I can't get this straightened out today.

I'll update you all.

MrEddie

Yeah, if the reservoir cap is not off, couldn't the force blow the top off (brake fluid everywhere) if compressed too hard?

When replacing pads, is it a good idea to flush the old brake fluid out first so that your not pushing old brake fluid back up into the system when doing the piston comression? I think I saw this on 2 guys garage a while back.

SladeX

the piston should compress easily, I usually use the old brake pad to do it. You will know when it's in all the way. Also make sure your reservoir cap is open and that you removed some fluid from it as when you push the pistons back in, the fluid has to go somewhere.

Try this out, if you go to the other side and release the caliper then go back to the problem side and push on the piston, does it move?

Worst case is that the rotor and pad are incorrectly sized and just a bit of grinding on the outer pad should let it fit. Just lay it flat on the concrete and do figure 8 motions with it till you've shaved off enough to let it slide over. (do the outer pad as the inner pad is the higher wear pad).

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

I remember on my 3rd Gen i had to screw the pistons in, i havent done rear brakes on my 4th gen yet, it looks as if you dont have to screw them in anymore huh?

gtarist

iTrader: (1)

Yup, use an old pad and the C clamp to compress a little further.

Mr Incredible

Don't "modify" anything. The pucks will go back in far enough for you to get the new pads in with room to spare. Put a c-clamp on them and slowly press them back in. The idea of a small piece of wood sounds good. You'll get it before too long. Stick with it.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

that sucks, sometimes the easiest things take the longest time. if the piston is in all the way it should go on, thats all i can tell ya

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Woohoo, progress has been made!

I tried to compress the pistons further by again opening the bleeder screw and using the old brake pad in between my c-clamp and the piston. Could not compress it anymore.

So, I decided to take the advice of a few people to just remove the metal backing plates from the two pads to gain that extra bit of clearance, and to smear anti-seize on the pad back to eliminate noise. It worked, as I gained just enough clearance to get the calipers back into position!

Now, I just need to bleed the brakes and see if they work...I ran out of time tonight, and don't want to rush it. Wondering if I should buy a brake bleeding tool i.e. Mityvac, or just do it with gravity...?

On another note, how much space is there supposed to be between the two new pads and the rotor? I see no visible space, and am wondering how the rotor spins freely? basic question, I know, but I honestly don't know the answer.

Thanks to all who have helped.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

If it free spins then the pads aren't seated.

There should be resistance to spinning it. It won't knock your MPG if that is what you think. Just let the pads break in and all will be ok.

waldershrek

iTrader: (1)

There will be a little pad to rotor contact on any disc brake setup.