WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

This is really off-topic for this thread but here are the basics:

- If you have t-tops, remove them. You will find two Phillips screws at the top of the windshield pillar that hold the pillar trim in place, remove them, then remove the trim. Without t-tops, the pillar trim is held only by clips so it just pops off. A gentle twisting motion will help release the clips holding it on.

- With the pillar trim removed from both sides, carefully pry up the dash panel. It is held in place by clips and plastic positioning dowels along the edge closest to the dash pad and by Velcro along the edge closest to the windshield. Work carefully because the plastic tends to get brittle with age. Also use caution with the edges - they are very sharp (...he says as he types with only 9 fingers).

skat4160

LOL. Any tricks to installing the New dash panel?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, installation is just the reverse of removal although you won't have to worry so much about the plastic being brittle with a new piece. Use some long tool with a piece of cloth (to prevent scratches) to firmly seat the Velcro pads near leading edge at the base of the windshield and be careful to line up the plastic positioning pins with their holes before pushing down the trailing edge - those pins break fairly easily (don't ask how I know that).

skat4160

I took my Z to the Dealer today to have a new dash pad installed and they broke my dashboard right under the left column. Looks like they leaned on it with a tool to maybe pry the column up and left a U shaped break. They did not even say anything about it until I went back in and pointed it out. They acted like it wasn't a big deal and said they would get another shop they use to fix it and it will be as good as new. I am so upset! I can't believe this and I don't know what to expect with the repair. Almost afraid to let anyone else touch it. Should have done it myself!.

skat4160

I have seen videos on BCM fix but they turn the camera off while they "wrestle" the box out. So not clear on step by step. Also I have heard to remove the seat or the glove box? Can anyone offer step by step instructions or a video showing how to remove it? Thanks

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Go to posts 188 and 189 in this thread.

skat4160

Like everyone else on here I thought my BCM was showing signs of failing and was going to replace it. Now I don't know for sure but I might have fixed the problem with my radio and windows intermittently not working by accident. I had ordered new power window and door lock switches about a year ago and forgot about them until I came across them cleaning out the closet. So last Wednesday I replaced the old ones after work. My window Flies up and down now. I drove around all day Thursday and Friday working and shopping and my radio did not cut off at all. Not once! The temperature was 70-82 both days and typically the radio would go off and the windows would not work due to the heat. I had the problem for about 3 years mostly in the summer months. Like I said I can't be sure but 2 days is more than I had gotten in the past. So maybe the New switches fixed it and if so defiantly less expensive and easier than messing with the BCM. Just thought I would share this and will post if anything changes as we get into the summer heat.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, no. It is quite possible that replacing the window switches would help the speed of the windows. It's even slightly possible that bad window switches may have contributed to the windows cutting out (unlikely but possible). It's not even remotely possible that the window switches (or door switches) had anything to do with the radio cutting out. The radio and windows are on two completely separate circuits and only share their power source - the retained accessory power (RAP) controlled by the BCM. Sorry but you will still have the radio problem (and probably the window problem) again. It's an intermittent problem so there's no telling when it will return.

Yes, it can be a pain to get the BCM out but at least the fix is free as long as you have a soldering iron and some solder around the house - cheaper than buying switches.

skat4160

Like I said I am not sure why replacing the switches would help but 2 days of having my radio work was great. I do not have the required equipment or the expertise to repair the BCM so for me it would be the cost of replacing it which I very well may have to do. Thanks for your reply.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

You can buy a soldering kit with iron, some solder, and accessories for under $20. Members here would be happy to walk you through how to use it to fix this problem. It's really quite easy if you take your time. The hardest part is getting the BCM out and even that isn't technical - just an awkward place to reach.

skat4160

Radio and windows still working without fail since replacing switches on 4/12. Typically they would stop working even in the winter on a sunny day due to the heat in the car. We have had 90 degree days and NO problem. Do you think there could have been a short or maybe a loose connection that could have caused the problem? I have been waiting for them to stop working since they have not worked for this long in a couple of years but so far they have worked every day that I have driven it.

Wayne LaFlamme

The picture doesn't show up for me. Anyway I could get it? Thanks.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The photos are in post 185 and several following posts.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

I know that this is an old thread and I had the same problem however mine turned out differently. I bought a used bcm connected everything and it was still doing the same issue. I checked my old bcm and new bcm and the solders looked fine. It wound up being a loose wire (blue with white stripe) in the black harness. My father popped out every wire and reconnected them until they clicked in and he noticed the blue wire with the white stripe was giving a hard time. He finally managed to get it to click into the harness and now the issue is completely gone. Just another option to look into.

skat4160

How difficult was it to get to the BCM?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Getting to it was easy if you follow the steps, getting it out is another story. On a side note, I did not have to remove the passenger seat. The side panel near the floor and glove box were removed. The kick panel under the glove box I just had it open but didn't remove it either.

skat4160

Do you think you would have had to take the BCM out if all you had to do was make sure all the wires were securely connected?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

If I knew the wire was the problem, I could have left the bcm in it's slot but taking the black housing out of the bcm is easier with it out of it's slot.

skat4160

Can you get to the wires from where you removed the glove box?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

You'll need to remove the glove box and open the kick panel. If you just remove the glove box, it will be harder to take the wires out since the main wiring harness is in the way and has to be unclipped in 2 places.