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LS1 Body Control Module Problems - The Fix
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
Likes: 2
LS1 Body Control Module Problems - The Fix Not sure which Forum this should be under so please feel free to move this and delete this sentence.
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
Last edited by Racr_X; Oct 31, 2008 at 03:21 PM.
Not sure which Forum this should be under so please feel free to move this and delete this sentence.
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
+1 on that! I had a BCM problem on my '99 SS 3 years ago. I suck with electrical stuff. It's just not something I like to mess with. I got raped by the Chevy dealer for $400 bucks to fix the thing. I also got the witness the porter rev the heck out of my car and ride the clutch like his left foot was welded to the clutch pedal 
I'm glad I have been able to do everything else on my cars other than wheels/tires, i'm so paranoid about random people driving my stuff.
I'm glad I have been able to do everything else on my cars other than wheels/tires, i'm so paranoid about random people driving my stuff. Trending Topics
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From: South Jersey (15 miles from Atlantic City)
Unplug it first, all 3 connectors.Once you have it out you of the car. There are to Tabs you unsnap and you fold back the on top and bottom, you will see its made to fold then you just pull it straight out. Very Simple.
Alright thanks a lot! I ended up just leaving all three plugged in and soldered it while it remained inside the little black box though. Unfortunately I pulled out of my garage and lost my radio again...I think its a wiring issue and I enjoyed all that circuit board fun for nothing .
. 
Thanks for the write-up, My windows have not worked for a year now, i pulled out the bcm and sure enough there was a hair line crack on the solder, so i re-solder the spot and now my windows and radio work. thanks for the advice