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LS1 Body Control Module Problems - The Fix

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Old May 5, 2009 | 05:07 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by 0235SS
where are the pics!? i need to do mine but dont know where to do the soldoring, HELP!!!
Exactly! Where did the original pics from the first post?
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Old May 6, 2009 | 09:29 AM
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The original poster (Racr_X) got pissed off at somebody on the forum and (childishly) deleted all his posts. The photos are no longer available so hopefully someone else will post new ones when they do the work.
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Old May 7, 2009 | 03:51 PM
  #83  
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Well that totally blows. I just need to know which parts on the circuit board to solder.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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It's really not that difficult. Open up the BCM and look for existing solder joints that have cracks. There is no new soldering involved - it's just a case of repairing cracked factory solder.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 06:35 AM
  #85  
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Question guys!

I have the steering column from the 98 v6 5 speed T-Top, along with its key.

The new question is - Will the BCM from said v6 Firebird work on my 98 Trans Am M6 Convertible?

BTW - I still have my BCM in my car; not sure if it would just be easier to use mine.


Thanks guys!!!


DM
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:30 AM
  #86  
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All 98-02 f-body BCMs are interchangeable regardless of model, engine type, transmission type, etc. The only differences between them are whether they had keyless entry and/or the optional factory alarm system (both functions are controlled by the BCM).

The steering column has nothing to do with your choice of BCM. It merely has contacts in the ignition cylinder to connect to the key resistor pellet (and the corresponding wires of course). Changing the steering column will have no effect on using your original ignition key as long as you leave the original BCM in place.
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Old May 19, 2009 | 02:35 PM
  #87  
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it works great i resoldered, window & radio have been working since,before I resoldered my starter had been clicking after I did the solder it starts without any chatter from the starter
thanks LS1
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Old May 19, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
All 98-02 f-body BCMs are interchangeable regardless of model, engine type, transmission type, etc. The only differences between them are whether they had keyless entry and/or the optional factory alarm system (both functions are controlled by the BCM).

The steering column has nothing to do with your choice of BCM. It merely has contacts in the ignition cylinder to connect to the key resistor pellet (and the corresponding wires of course). Changing the steering column will have no effect on using your original ignition key as long as you leave the original BCM in place.
Thanks for the info man!


DM
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Old May 20, 2009 | 05:41 AM
  #89  
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Probably still need to do this as preventative maitenance...

Wish the pics were still around
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Old May 23, 2009 | 11:55 PM
  #90  
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so i have a quick question... my radio works fine and at the moment my DS window works fine, but my PS window wont roll down. Sounds like sometimes it make a clicking noise but doesnt move at all. There is a POS ebay motor in there now which is what i think the problem is, but is there a seperate circuit for each side window? like could maybe the solder go bad on jsut one side and maybe thats why the window wont work?
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Old May 24, 2009 | 07:53 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by 00MaroVSix
so i have a quick question... my radio works fine and at the moment my DS window works fine, but my PS window wont roll down. Sounds like sometimes it make a clicking noise but doesnt move at all. There is a POS ebay motor in there now which is what i think the problem is, but is there a seperate circuit for each side window? like could maybe the solder go bad on jsut one side and maybe thats why the window wont work?
No. The reason the windows and radio are involved in the BCM solder problem is that they're both on the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) circuit that allows certain accessories to still have power after the ignition is shut off. It's an all or nothing situation - if the RAP circuit goes out because of the cracked solder in the BCM then all RAP connected accessories will be affected at the same time.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 08:28 AM
  #92  
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Default Intermittent starting problem

I have a 98 Formula, A4, 44,000 miles. About 2,000 miles ago it quit on the road due to no fuel. My mechanic diagnosed a faulty fuel pump and replaced it. Last Wed. I drove it 15 miles and all was well. About 1 hr later when I tried to start it, It would fire once and stumble 1-2 seconds and die. This is the way it acted when the fuel pump was replaced so I had it towed to my mechanic to fix. 5 days later when he got to it, it started right up and ran fine. Fuel pressure was fine and no codes. He checked all connections and they looked good. Could this be the BCM solder problem showing up or is there another likely cause?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #93  
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The BCM solder problem discussed here affects the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) circuit which powers the radio and power windows - it's unrelated to starting.

It is possible that a problem similar to this could affect the VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System -also controlled by the BCM) which would prevent the car from starting. But it would also light the SECURITY light on the dash and it would prevent the starter from cranking.
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Old Jun 3, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #94  
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Thanks for the info. A quick update. Today the Formula refused to start in my garage. Turned over fine but wouldn't fire. My mechanic came over(yes he makes housecalls!!!). No (0) fuel pressure, relays were working. Diagnosis = bad fuel pump. Should be installed next week. I hope that fixes it.
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Old Jun 7, 2009 | 02:06 PM
  #95  
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I just pulled the BCM out of my car and I just wanted to add one little detail to 7Enigma's excellent writ-up. Once you get to the BCM and you are ready to pull it out, the board is mounted inside a plastic encasing that slides inside the black plastic slot you see in the pic in his write-up. You can pull the encasing that the board is mounted in out of that slot so that you can access the clips he mentions are a PITA to undo. Once you pull it out the clips are a cinch to undo and you can just pull the board out, with a good amount of force as he mentions. If I haven't described this step enough or you have questions just let me know.

Last edited by Trendkiller Z; Jun 9, 2009 at 06:09 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 04:33 PM
  #96  
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I hae the BCM out, was pretty easy. I am now starring at a board, and dont have a clue wtf to solder. Could someone help me out here?
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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WhiteBird00

What area of Jax are you from? I am near the Regency Mall.

I have an issue that may or may not be the BCM. The other day I had a wire get hot on me and melt. Now the previous owner did this Jerry-Rig from the fuse box (inside) to some cluster that I thought was for the fans (I thought he hot wired the fans to run all the time, but I still hear them or at least one of them, not sure) but like I said, I hear the FAN(s). The issues is that now when I turn off the car, the radio automatically turns off to; it no longer waits for me to open the door for it to power off. Could this have fried the solder on the BCM that you have been talking about?


BTW - I don't notice any other strange effect from the melted Jerry-Rigged wire. I just pulled it out of the fuse and tucked it under the hood.


Thanks man!

DM
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Old Jun 12, 2009 | 05:32 PM
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Devils Mentor
WhiteBird00

What area of Jax are you from? I am near the Regency Mall.

I have an issue that may or may not be the BCM. The other day I had a wire get hot on me and melt. Now the previous owner did this Jerry-Rig from the fuse box (inside) to some cluster that I thought was for the fans (I thought he hot wired the fans to run all the time, but I still hear them or at least one of them, not sure) but like I said, I hear the FAN(s). The issues is that now when I turn off the car, the radio automatically turns off to; it no longer waits for me to open the door for it to power off. Could this have fried the solder on the BCM that you have been talking about?


BTW - I don't notice any other strange effect from the melted Jerry-Rigged wire. I just pulled it out of the fuse and tucked it under the hood.


Thanks man!

DM
I'm in Mandarin.

Your problem doesn't sound like the same solder problem discussed here. The symptoms sound more like a problem with the door switch or the wiring from it to the BCM. The BCM appears to "think" that your door is open even when it isn't - so it shuts off the RAP circuit as soon as the ignition is turned off.

Check the gray with black wire and the black with white wire in the blue BCM connector to make sure they don't show ground when the doors are closed. (There is only one gray with black wire but several black with white in that connector - you want the one that is right next to the gray with black one.) If either one shows ground even though the door is closed then you have a bad door switch or a shorted wire. The gray with black is for the driver's door and the black with white is for the passenger's door.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CRAGER


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