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LS1 Body Control Module Problems - The Fix

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Old Jul 1, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #101  
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heh i got a problem, this happened to my 96..anyway, i pulled the bcm out and looked at it and that part with the T shape looks bad. instead of just doing it though, i approached my father, and he said wtf are you thinking, you dont and cant fix that stuff, you need to just buy a new one. of course i protest, he goes do it and then it will be fucked up and i told you so.. but i really think this will fix it. im not about to shell out hundreds of bucks for a damn computer board if i can fix it myself.

what i am most concerned about is how sometimes i am not very careful i suppose you could say. i am very precise and meticulous, but i don't want to go soldering and drip some solder on another connection and **** everything up. some help here guys? thanks
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 06:52 AM
  #102  
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What kind of help are you looking for... someone to do it for you? Just be careful with the solder and clean up any extra bits that go where they shouldn't. It's really quite easy if you don't rush. Dripped solder won't hurt anything as long as you remove it before you plug the BCM in again.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 07:12 AM
  #103  
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thats what i figure. if i go buy a 15w iron and some really really thin rosin core i should be fine if i am careful. was thinking of maybe getting some sort of mat or something you know, to put over so i don't spill any. you say that as long as i dont connect joints together, or if i get some on the green plastic i have to get it off again still? he keeps going on how robots solder the boards and that its not something a person can fix blah blah.

and i almost forgot another development. i plugged it back in after he yelled at me so he would leave me alone about it and it works now. gonna run with it for a few days and see if it acts up anymore.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 07:54 AM
  #104  
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Tell him that robots are used because they are faster and more consistent than people (and they don't need health benefits). That doesn't mean they do anything a person couldn't do - just that they do it the same all day without coffee breaks. Circuit board soldering has been done by hand for many years and is still used on many low volume products where the capital cost of robots too high for the profit margin.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:23 AM
  #105  
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so far so good, went out last night though it was raining so it wasnt hot as hell like it gets here and the radio didnt cut off at all and the windows worked. just snapped the bcm back in there, if it starts acting up hardcore again im gonna just go buy another iron (i have a crappy battery powered one for when i do audio stuff) and fix it myself.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 12:09 PM
  #106  
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I'm going to try this resolder fix tonight. I hope it works. I turned the car on today and the damn driver side window started to roll down on its own. I pushed the window switch up and it would go up but if I let go it would come back down. I let it come down all the way and then the crap wouldn't go up anymore. When I would push up on the window switch again there was a noise coming from under the dash like a high pitched hum like something was fried every time I would push the switch. The passenger side works just fine but not the driver.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 12:15 PM
  #107  
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That is certainly not a BCM problem. It sounds like you have a bad window motor on the driver's side.

The fix listed here is for an interruption of power supply on the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) circuit. When the RAP power is interrupted, the affected devices (radio and windows) stop working because they have no power. It is not a magic cure-all for every problem related to windows or stereo (somebody has claimed that it is affecting the volume control on the radio).
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 12:24 PM
  #108  
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Well that sux. The window motor isn't more than a year old since it was last replaced. So if it was a BCM issue both windows would not work? I can't verify the radio part because I don't have one
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 12:46 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by DopeFedZ
Well that sux. The window motor isn't more than a year old since it was last replaced. So if it was a BCM issue both windows would not work? I can't verify the radio part because I don't have one
Yes, if the RAP circuit cuts out because of the solder problem in the BCM then power to both windows would be cut off at the same time.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 02:05 PM
  #110  
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Ok thanks for the help man.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:16 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
That is certainly not a BCM problem. It sounds like you have a bad window motor on the driver's side.

The fix listed here is for an interruption of power supply on the RAP (Retained Accessory Power) circuit. When the RAP power is interrupted, the affected devices (radio and windows) stop working because they have no power. It is not a magic cure-all for every problem related to windows or stereo (somebody has claimed that it is affecting the volume control on the radio).
You were absolutely correct. Wasn't the BCM but it wasn't the window motor either. It was the little box below. It's sits right in the middle of the firewall. I'm not sure what it's called but I think the window switches and windows tie into it but I could be wrong. I kept hearing a noise from the box when I pushed the window switch so I pulled it out. When I did it was full of water . Dried it out and cleaned it was some electronics cleaner and all is good in the hood


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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #112  
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That's the window express-down control module. It's the box that controls the auto-down feature of the driver's window - that's why only the one window was affected. Congratulations on locating and fixing the problem!
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 11:31 PM
  #113  
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ha what a coincidence mine just started doing that about a week ago.
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 01:10 PM
  #114  
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Hello,

I have this same issue in my 99 TA. Windows and Radio cut out randomly while driving.

I have some other electrical quirks as well and I was wondering if they were related.

1. Security light comes on and stays while driving sometimes. If I shut vehicle off it still starts back up so it doesn't seem like a resistor/cylinder issue

2. Just recently when I arm or disarm my factory alarm the popup lights open and close quickly (blinking?!)

3. RAP no longer works, Radio shuts off as soon as I kill the ignition (it used to stay on for 5-10mins)

Any thoughts ?
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Old Jul 20, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by xDaytona955
Hello,

I have this same issue in my 99 TA. Windows and Radio cut out randomly while driving.

I have some other electrical quirks as well and I was wondering if they were related.

1. Security light comes on and stays while driving sometimes. If I shut vehicle off it still starts back up so it doesn't seem like a resistor/cylinder issue
Security light is 100% related to VATS system (ignition key/resistor pellet) - that's its only function. If the security light is on then you should fix the problem or someday soon you will be unable to start the car. First thing to try is cleaning the contacts on the key and in the ignition cylinder.

Originally Posted by xDaytona955
2. Just recently when I arm or disarm my factory alarm the popup lights open and close quickly (blinking?!)
This is one or both of your headlight motor gears going bad. You can take the motor apart and reposition the gears, take it apart and replace the gears with brass ones, or replace the entire motor.

Originally Posted by xDaytona955
3. RAP no longer works, Radio shuts off as soon as I kill the ignition (it used to stay on for 5-10mins)

Any thoughts ?
RAP is controlled by the BCM and is the circuit that this broken solder fix is designed for.
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 10:53 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
That's the window express-down control module. It's the box that controls the auto-down feature of the driver's window - that's why only the one window was affected. Congratulations on locating and fixing the problem!
I have a 95 and the BCM looks different. Can anyone tell me where to solder? I assume this is in fact the BCM I'm looking at? Thanks for your help.

Or confirm where the BCM is for this year? I'm not sure this is my BCM?
Attached Thumbnails LS1 Body Control Module Problems - The Fix-bcm1.jpg   LS1 Body Control Module Problems - The Fix-bcm2.jpg  

Last edited by 95ConvMaroon; Jul 24, 2009 at 07:11 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 01:15 PM
  #117  
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Man you guy,s are freaking Einsteins, So this BCM controls RAP which only concerns Features like radio and windows, Correct?
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 03:07 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by metalmechanic
Man you guy,s are freaking Einsteins, So this BCM controls RAP which only concerns Features like radio and windows, Correct?
Yes, radio and windows are the ONLY two circuits connected to the RAP circuit (they're the only things that remain powered until a door is opened after turning off the ignition).
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 05:11 PM
  #119  
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My aftermarket radio has been cutting on and off intermittently while driving for some time now; and recently, my convertible top switch won't work every once in a while (I find that going into the back where the pump is and switching it to manual mode and back to electric-mode fixes it).

BCM related?
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #120  
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Yes, quite possible. The next time your radio cuts out, try your power windows. If they quit at the same time then it's almost certain that the RAP circuit in the BCM is the problem.
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