Apr 29, 2016, 04:23 PM
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LS1 Body Control Module Problems - The Fix
I started a thread about my issue but figured I ask in here. I was having the radio/window punch the dash and it worked issue so I did the BCM fix. Everything worked. Now my drivers side window intermittently won't roll down. Some days it does. Some days it doesn't. So far when I do catch it on a day it rolls down, as long as I don't roll it all the way up it will continue working. When it works it works great and moves fast. Does this sound like I should resolder the BCM or like the window motor or regulator are on their way out?
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
I am having a similar issue with my Blazer and have wondered if it's the regulator. The window will always roll down, but sometimes if I let it roll all the way down and then try to roll it right back up it won't do anything for 15 seconds or so. I figure the regulator is crapping out.
Well, after 13 yrs mine started acting up this summer. Took out the BCM, put some heat to the T shaped solder spots as in the pics, and put it back in. Drove all afternoon with zero issues. Thanks guys for this tech thread.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Louisiana
clicking on key on position Ok I have searched and searched for a problem close to mine and have only found a few with no solution. My problem is not exactly like this but has to do with the radio and the bcm.
99 Trans am
First off, the radio, windows, and dome lights work and are not cutting in and out while driving. The bcm is clicking only when the radio is already off and the key is turned to the on position. The radio will stay on like normal when the key is turned off and will stay on until the door is opened like normal. If I turn the key on then off(with door closed so the radio stays on) and then on again it will not click. Also bcm will not click if I remove only the radio fuse and turn the key to the on position. But it will still click if I remove only the courtesy fuse. It also seems to do it more in the cold weather. I do have an aftermarket radio and speakers but no amp, other than the stock one.
I have found these wile searching if it may help anyone else
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...y-10-secs.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/1624840-clicking-passenger-side.html
Thanks in advance
99 Trans am
First off, the radio, windows, and dome lights work and are not cutting in and out while driving. The bcm is clicking only when the radio is already off and the key is turned to the on position. The radio will stay on like normal when the key is turned off and will stay on until the door is opened like normal. If I turn the key on then off(with door closed so the radio stays on) and then on again it will not click. Also bcm will not click if I remove only the radio fuse and turn the key to the on position. But it will still click if I remove only the courtesy fuse. It also seems to do it more in the cold weather. I do have an aftermarket radio and speakers but no amp, other than the stock one.
I have found these wile searching if it may help anyone else
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...y-10-secs.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-maintenance-repairs/1624840-clicking-passenger-side.html
Thanks in advance
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Jax
Huge thank you to everyone for the massive amounts of detailed info. 
I had a terrific day learning about my 99 FB. I didn't fix the BCM yet, but at least I understand it now, and simply make sure to put on the ac when it heats up and shuts off. It was 80 today so I got to experiment a bit. Got the soldering iron and will attempt to remove the BCM this week. It looked really tight in there when I peeked.
Having fun in my new FB and all this great info on here.
I had a terrific day learning about my 99 FB. I didn't fix the BCM yet, but at least I understand it now, and simply make sure to put on the ac when it heats up and shuts off. It was 80 today so I got to experiment a bit. Got the soldering iron and will attempt to remove the BCM this week. It looked really tight in there when I peeked.
Having fun in my new FB and all this great info on here.
Fix Feedback - 6 months Just wanted to chime in and say this fix has 100% solved my radio and window problems intermittently cutting out. It has been 6 months since doing this easy fix with absolutely zero hiccups or issues. Thanks all who contributed for all the info and pix.
Does the BCM control the courtesy lights on the mirror and dome light?
The mirror lights will come on by the switch on the mirror but used to come on when the doors were unlocked with the remote and when the ignition was turned off, now they do not.
Is this a door pin switch issue or BCM issue?
BTW I repaired my BCM about 2 years ago.
The mirror lights will come on by the switch on the mirror but used to come on when the doors were unlocked with the remote and when the ignition was turned off, now they do not.
Is this a door pin switch issue or BCM issue?
BTW I repaired my BCM about 2 years ago.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Not sure which Forum this should be under so please feel free to move this and delete this sentence.
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
I've had 3 LS1 cars over the past few years that had intermitent body control module problems. When your radio and power windows intermitently go on and off, it's a body control module problem. This must be somewhat common and most people probably don't know where the problem lies.
Today I took a shot at trying to fix the module itself as buying a new one is around $200. You can buy a used one but then you have to know the VIN of the car it came out of so you can get the VATS code and make a new ignition key for your car that matches the used BCM.
The BCM is located on the passenger side under the dash just behind the glove box. To my surprise, the entire circuit board is just sitting inside a black plastic box that unsnaps. Unsnap the box and remove the entire circuit board. I was able to isolate the problem to the main power circuit/plug-in. After playing the wiggle-parts game, I found that the relay just behind the plug was the problem. There are 5 solder joints holding the relay onto the board. One solder joint looked like it had a super tiny micro-crack in it. I heated that one solder joint and added some additional solder and whaddayaknow !!!! it fixed it ! Your mileage may vary but I would reheat each of the 5 solder joints.
Here is a picture of the circuit board with the 5 solder joints crudely circled. The bottom joint was my problem.
Just thought you guys would like to see this.
Greg Crowe
http://www.camarofirebird.com
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When it rains and I lock the car with the remote or the door lock switch on the arm rest after about 10 seconds the alarm goes off. If it has been dry weather this problem does not happen. Anyone have an idea what is causing this?
My problem is getting the damn thing out! I have no room behind the Radio and the trick that I used in my Camaro(go through the glove compartment) doesn't work because there is a piece of dash separating the two areas. There isn't any slack in the wires to pull the BCM up so that I can get to the plugs. And my huge bear paws are just getting eatin up by sharp plastic trying to contort around in an attempt to unplug it.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
This is not related to the BCM. It is fairly common for the factory alarm to do that because of moisture in the shock sensor. It is located under the right quarter trim panel in front of the spare tire (there is a photo in the Monsoon FAQ sticky). Unplug it and see if the problem goes away. If so, you might be able to dry it like you would a cell phone (rice and canned air) but most people find they have to replace it. Or you can just leave it unplugged if you're not worried about having the shock detection part of the alarm working - the rest of the alarm will still work properly with the sensor unplugged.
This is not related to the BCM. It is fairly common for the factory alarm to do that because of moisture in the shock sensor. It is located under the right quarter trim panel in front of the spare tire (there is a photo in the Monsoon FAQ sticky). Unplug it and see if the problem goes away. If so, you might be able to dry it like you would a cell phone (rice and canned air) but most people find they have to replace it. Or you can just leave it unplugged if you're not worried about having the shock detection part of the alarm working - the rest of the alarm will still work properly with the sensor unplugged.
Well, looks like it's time for me to do this fix.
Driving back from lunch today the radio just cut off and pressing on the face plate (which has fixed it every other time that happened, including several times on the way to lunch) did nothing so I try the windows and nothing, then it just randomly starts up again while stuck at a light and goes fine till I get to work and as soon as I shut the engine off the radio and windows stop working (even tho the doors where closed) so I put the key back into the run position and they come back then I pull the key and the radio stays on till I open the door like normal.
do you need to disconnect the battery before removal or can you just unplug the BCM?
Driving back from lunch today the radio just cut off and pressing on the face plate (which has fixed it every other time that happened, including several times on the way to lunch) did nothing so I try the windows and nothing, then it just randomly starts up again while stuck at a light and goes fine till I get to work and as soon as I shut the engine off the radio and windows stop working (even tho the doors where closed) so I put the key back into the run position and they come back then I pull the key and the radio stays on till I open the door like normal.
do you need to disconnect the battery before removal or can you just unplug the BCM?
Well, looks like it's time for me to do this fix.
Driving back from lunch today the radio just cut off and pressing on the face plate (which has fixed it every other time that happened, including several times on the way to lunch) did nothing so I try the windows and nothing, then it just randomly starts up again while stuck at a light and goes fine till I get to work and as soon as I shut the engine off the radio and windows stop working (even tho the doors where closed) so I put the key back into the run position and they come back then I pull the key and the radio stays on till I open the door like normal.
do you need to disconnect the battery before removal or can you just unplug the BCM?
Driving back from lunch today the radio just cut off and pressing on the face plate (which has fixed it every other time that happened, including several times on the way to lunch) did nothing so I try the windows and nothing, then it just randomly starts up again while stuck at a light and goes fine till I get to work and as soon as I shut the engine off the radio and windows stop working (even tho the doors where closed) so I put the key back into the run position and they come back then I pull the key and the radio stays on till I open the door like normal.
do you need to disconnect the battery before removal or can you just unplug the BCM?
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
I also just unplugged it.
I think mines starting to get flakey again. It may very we'll be my drivers door switch though. Every once in a while my radio stays on when I shut the car off and open the driver door, but it shuts off if I go to the other side and open the passenger door. So I'm thinking maybe the door switch.
I think mines starting to get flakey again. It may very we'll be my drivers door switch though. Every once in a while my radio stays on when I shut the car off and open the driver door, but it shuts off if I go to the other side and open the passenger door. So I'm thinking maybe the door switch.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You both must be thinking of something else. If you unplugged the BCM, you would have no radio, no power windows, no courtesy lights, no keyless entry or alarm, no remote hatch release, and most importantly your car wouldn't start.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, New York
Yea sorry man I didn't explain that well. I meant I didn't disconnect the battery, I just unplugged the BCM soldered it and put it back with the battery still connected.
additional question, I have this strange random (getting more common) issue where my passenger side DRL just doesn't come on, when it first started it was just after getting the car wet (like washing). the bulb exploded twice before I realized the problem was a leaky housing and replaced it, but while the bulbs aren't blowing up anymore that one still did the not working after washing and now it does it randomly (wet or dry, before it was just sometime that day after getting wet, not always right away). Could this be a BCM related issue? The BCM has something to do with the DRL's doesn't it?
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 345
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
No, the DRLs and the BCM are unrelated. The DRLs are controlled by the DRL module which is mounted to the defroster duct behind the radio.
I would guess that you have corrosion in the bulb socket. They are notorious for collecting water and corroding causing intermittent operation. Sometimes you can clean the surface corrosion on the contacts and then apply dielectric grease to reduce future problems but sometimes you just have to replace the socket.
I would guess that you have corrosion in the bulb socket. They are notorious for collecting water and corroding causing intermittent operation. Sometimes you can clean the surface corrosion on the contacts and then apply dielectric grease to reduce future problems but sometimes you just have to replace the socket.
No, the DRLs and the BCM are unrelated. The DRLs are controlled by the DRL module which is mounted to the defroster duct behind the radio.
I would guess that you have corrosion in the bulb socket. They are notorious for collecting water and corroding causing intermittent operation. Sometimes you can clean the surface corrosion on the contacts and then apply dielectric grease to reduce future problems but sometimes you just have to replace the socket.
I would guess that you have corrosion in the bulb socket. They are notorious for collecting water and corroding causing intermittent operation. Sometimes you can clean the surface corrosion on the contacts and then apply dielectric grease to reduce future problems but sometimes you just have to replace the socket.
like today, nice sunny clear 60* day, going to lunch the passenger DRL wasn't working (but turn and parking where) then when coming back from lunch (30 minutes later) as soon as I lower the parking brake both come on. to me this seams more like a module issue then a wiring issue. Are the DRL modules known to suffer from the same solder crack issues as the bcm?