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OK, so I was having the same problem as so many others with the intermittent windows/stereo. I pulled out the BCM and my boss, an electrical engineer, did the re-solder work. We decided to test it out. We plugged the wires directly into the circuit board without first putting it back in the little black box. I turned the key one position- activating the electrical power to the car- and POOF! Sparks and smoke!! Apparently we somehow burned out a lead. Here's where I'm at: the windows and stereo work (yay), but every time you open either door, the alarm goes off (very annoying), there are NO interior lights, and every time I put my foot on the brake, the trunk release activates. Also, the key fob won't lock the doors, although it will shut off the alarm. And lastly, I have no reserved power, if that's the right term, so that when you shut off the motor, everything shuts off. Before this happened, the lights and stereo wouldn't go off until you opened the door. Now- nothing. So, do I need a new BCM? And if so, how do I program it to my key? I need your help, guys. Thanks in advance.
No ****. I was worried as I suffer from tremors and have issues soldering delicate small work and usually have a friend do it, but thought **** it and did it myself. He goes the way of someone that probably does this and poof.
If you read any of my earlier posts you know that my BCM repair went south and the car is doing all sorts of crazy weird things. I love how the trunk release fires every time I hit the brakes. And the key fob is basically jewelry, with the exception of turning off the alarm every time I open a door! My new question is this: Will the new BCM "fix" the power lock switch? Passenger side was working until BCM disaster, but driver's side has not worked in I can't remember when. I usually use the fob to lock/unlock the door, but it kinda sucks to have to reach for it to let my son in when I get him from school. I'm thinking it's either the bum thing, a bad switch, or a bad actuator. Ideas, anybody? I can't seem to find this anywhere in these forums.
Lol, no problem man. Seems you're always parting something. Just came to mind
yeah, it seems that way.I must of had 12 f-body's in the last two years. my neighbors loved me as I had seven of them in my driveway at one time! the UPS guy calls my house GM Central. it pains me to part out these cars, but most of them were totaled or had a bad motor. if the car was nice I would try to sell as a complete roller before parting them out. I do it to fund my race car and my son's builds (02 SS m6 and 02 T/A m6). I also like to help other members on LS1tech with their part needs as much as my love for these cars!
A few months back my drivers side window would not work just out of the blue so i ordered a window motor thinking it was on the fritz(dont recall if i had my radio on to tell if it went out also), but I havent had any problems with it since that one time so bought a motor for nothing. And then Ive been having door lock issues where all of sudden my key fob wont unlock my doors so I have to manually unlock the door and then the alarm goes off and key fob does nothing to turn alarm off so i have to start the vehicle and then the alarm shuts off, thought the battery was going bad of course but put a new battery in and i still have the problem and it's actually gotten more frequent unfortunately. Obviously this is my culprit, awesome thread. Thx, tech.
Last edited by Snake_Skinner; Jan 11, 2015 at 04:29 AM.
When you guys are suspecting BCM, just to get you by in a pinch, like NEEDING to roll the windows up... Try banging a few times on top the passenger dash or footwell. That got my windows up once when I had to park it for a few days until I could actually DO the fix.
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Snake_Skinner
A few months back my drivers side window would not work just out of the blue so i ordered a window motor thinking it was on the fritz(dont recall if i had my radio on to tell if it went out also), but I havent had any problems with it since that one time so bought a motor for nothing. And then Ive been having door lock issues where all of sudden my key fob wont unlock my doors so I have to manually unlock the door and then the alarm goes off and key fob does nothing to turn alarm off so i have to start the vehicle and then the alarm shuts off, thought the battery was going bad of course but put a new battery in and i still have the problem and it's actually gotten more frequent unfortunately. Obviously this is my culprit, awesome thread. Thx, tech.
Sorry, this is not the fix. Yes, chances are good that your lock problems are BCM related. But the BCM has several distinct circuits and the fix in this thread is for the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) circuit affecting the windows and stereo. It is not related to the power locks circuit.
Sorry, this is not the fix. Yes, chances are good that your lock problems are BCM related. But the BCM has several distinct circuits and the fix in this thread is for the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) circuit affecting the windows and stereo. It is not related to the power locks circuit.
Well thats extremely disappointing, thx for replying to my post i appreciate ya.
Well then let me ask you this, EVERY time I start my car and start to drive exactly around 2-5 mins later my radio cuts out completely for only like a second but always comes right back on. its not to big of a problem considering it only cuts out a second or two and always comes right back, but since im already driving then it would have nothing to do with this either right? Pretty sure the answer's yes but curious if anyone else has experienced this problem too, stock monsoon radio btw.
I also have the dreaded one DRL will come on but when i turn my parking lights on they both come on, so should i be trying a whole new 10407669 DRL control module or more so trying to see if i can replace the relays in my BCM?
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Snake_Skinner
Well then let me ask you this, EVERY time I start my car and start to drive exactly around 2-5 mins later my radio cuts out completely for only like a second but always comes right back on. its not to big of a problem considering it only cuts out a second or two and always comes right back, but since im already driving then it would have nothing to do with this either right? Pretty sure the answer's yes but curious if anyone else has experienced this problem too, stock monsoon radio btw.
The radio cutting out could very possibly be related to the fix in this thread although the problem is usually much more random and hard to predict. The usual easy way to confirm - the windows go dead at the same time - would be difficult to do in your case because the time it cuts out is so short. However, since this broken solder problem is so common and since it costs you basically nothing but time to repair, it would probably be worth just going ahaed and doing this fix to see if it resolves the problem.
Originally Posted by Snake_Skinner
I also have the dreaded one DRL will come on but when i turn my parking lights on they both come on, so should i be trying a whole new 10407669 DRL control module or more so trying to see if i can replace the relays in my BCM?
My best guess is just replacing the bulb will solve this problem. Each front bulb has two filaments - a bright one for DRL and turn signal and a dimmer one for parking lights when the headlights are on. Either filament can burn out without affecting the other so I suspect that the bright DRL/signal filament is burned out while the dim parking light filament is still okay.
Another possibility is socket corrosion or a break somewhere in the blue wire to the lamp but a bulb is the most common cause and the easiest to repair. It is extremely unlikely that it would be the DRL module and it can't be the BCM because it is not involved in that circuit.
Mine does the same thing and it drives me crazy when i do this do i unhook the battery first?
Also what kind of solder is best to use or does it not matter?
Mine does the same thing and it drives me crazy when i do this do i unhook the battery first?
Also what kind of solder is best to use or does it not matter?
I didn't and I just used the solder I had on hand.
I have had the stereotypical radio cuting out and windows issues. I never thought about the locks having an issue but as I recall sometimes it would appear as the locks were not fully engaged. I will update after soldering is complete.
Of the 5 leads in the T I found the cracked culprit. Now to solder...
Does anyone have copies of the pictures from the original posts in this thread that showed how they removed it? Whatever host that they were linked to is dead now.
Does anyone have copies of the pictures from the original posts in this thread that showed how they removed it? Whatever host that they were linked to is dead now.
Its pretty easy to remove, just go under the passenger side glove box and its mounted vertically in a slot literally right behind it under the foot well. It's mounted up there kind of strange, I can't remember specifically how and what you need to adjust to pull it down (as it's secured) but its not too hard. Getting it back in there was little bit of a pain though.
I actually do have a question for anyone who may know.
After I resoldered mine and it worked perfectly, however; my HVAC lights died. I can almost recall them working before I did this and then they stopped working after, odd thing is..they're the only interior related lights that stopped working so maybe its just a blown bulb...but I wanted to know..does anyone know if there's anything in the BCM I might've screwed up?
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Apr 29, 2016, 04:23 PM
No ****. I was worried as I suffer from tremors and have issues soldering delicate small work and usually have a friend do it, but thought **** it and did it myself. He goes the way of someone that probably does this and poof.
