The BCM is unrelated to the dash illumination. It handles the courtesy lights (for door open/close etc.) but not the dash lights.

 

So troubleshooting and fixing some unrelated problems with newly installed LEDs yesterday, I noticed that my door locks periodically don't work. After installing all the new LEDs I checked everything, including door locks using remote and both door switches. All good. Went into the house, came out about an hour later, checked everything again. Remote worked fine but both door switches would only lock the doors and not unlock them. I pulled the driver's side lock/unlock switch out of the armrest and fiddled with it a few minutes and then they started working again.

Another time, later the same evening the driver door switch stopped unlocking the doors but the passenger switch worked fine. Fiddling with the switch in the driver's door it eventually started working. Might be one of the wires connected to the switch, will have to inspect them in better light BUT, I had jiggled all 3 wires multiple times before it suddenly started working again.

Could this be a BCM problem instead?

 

I'm heavily heavily doubting it. It sounds like either a problem with the driver side switch or wiring / connector to the switch to me. If it was the BCM they would not lock or unlock. Does the keyfob still work?

With the jiggling of the wires (and Im not sure where you jiggled them near) it could be the connector from the harness into the actual female socket that plugs into the switch.

 

Not sure if this is the right thread. But both of my power mirrors on on my 93 formula dont work.

I got the car a week ago and the previous owner thought water got into the switch. I bought a used one off ebay and no change. As far as I know, fuse this runs through is shared by other components, and everything else works fine. And it would seem odd for both mirror motors to be dead.

So if its not a bad fuse, bad switch, or bad motors, whats left to check?

 

No, your issue is not related to the BCM in any way. In fact, your 93 doesn't even have a BCM. Please start a new thread (preferably in the Stereo & Electronics section) to get assistance with your mirrors.

 

Been putting up with the radio/windows cutting off for a second or two and coming right back for a couple months, started right after changing my LCA's.

Cold solder joint on 2 of the 5 relay connections. Woo Fn Hoo.

This thread saved me a lot of aggravation and time trouble-shooting this. Thanks much.

 

Read this entire thread as well as others.

I have both a solid Security light and Radio/Windows/RAP cutting out. I want to say they both started about the same time. So I'm thinking of just replacing the BCM. I'm more concerned with the solid Security light and from what I gather could be related to the BCM??

Car starts and runs fine. Occasionally I have to hold the ignition a tad longer and the car starts right up.

 

The RAP cutout is what this thread is about. Either the solder fix or replacing the BCM will solve that problem. The VATS security light in the dash is controlled by the BCM but it is very unlikely that the BCM is causing that problem so replacing it probably won't fix that problem.

VATS is intended to help prevent vehicle theft by checking that it sees the expected resistance value of the chip on the original ignition key before allowing the vehicle to start. If it sees a resistance value that is not correct, it illuminates the security light solidly. If it doesn't see any resistance value (because of a damaged or missing resistor pellet in the key or broken wires), it flashes the security light.

If the BCM detects the problem while the car is running, it will assume that there is a system fault rather than a theft attempt and it will allow the car to be restarted. But if it first detects the problem while trying to start the car then it will prevent starting by disabling the starter relay and turning off the fuel enable signal to the PCM. In this case that means that you will continue to be able to start the car until you reset it by disconnecting the battery (for service or replacement). After that, the car will not start.

There are a variety of things that can cause VATS to see the wrong resistor value. The easiest to fix is a simple build-up of grime on the key and in the ignition cylinder. Clean the contacts on the key using a pencil eraser followed by rubbing alcohol. Clean the ignition cylinder with spray electronics cleaner and a pipe cleaner. Other causes include worn contacts on the key or in the cylinder, a damaged cylinder, or broken wires in the steering column or between the column and the BCM.

If a thorough cleaning doesn't solve the problem then you may find that a VATS bypass would be easier than trying to track down the cause. VATS cannot be programmed out in an F-body but a bypass is fairly simple to implement. Search the forum for "VATS bypass" to find plenty of information on how to do it.

 

Good info, thanks.

 

I appreciate the detailed info sir!! Thank you!

 

The radio and windows on my 99 Z28 do go out intermittently however if I smack the dashboard the radio will come back on. This does not sound like a bad soldering on the circuit board to me. Anybody care to advise me on this? I would not attempt a soldering fix and do not want to get robbed by a repair from the Dealer but I would try to disconnect and re-connect the wires if someone could tell me how to do that. I like to start with the least expensive fix first. I am not a car DIYer. Thanks for any help with this.

 

It's a cold/cracked solder joint at the RAP relay on the BCM circuit board, I have had to fix mine & a hundred other '99-'02 F-Bodies. Anyone with soldering skills & a steady hand can fix this!

 

Damn my 01 TA did this form my first day of ownership, sold the car to a friend, at least I know what to tell him.

 

is there any trouble starting after reinstalling the bcm after soldier is repaired?

 

is there any relearning process for the ignition when reinstalled or is it turn key and go ?

 

Need instructions on how to remove the glove box on 99 Camaro Z28

 

Squeeze the top of the glove box inward on both sides until the tabs are free and the box will swing down.

 

No screws to remove on the glove box? Just squeeze it? I don't want to break it. And do you know where I can get a NEW dashboard? Mine has cracked. Thanks

 

Dash panel part number 10422746. Available online from places like GM Parts Direct, Summit Racing, and even Ebay.

 

Thanks I found one GM Parts Direct. Little pricey so is this something I can replace myself? Any instructions on this that I can see?