No, the DRL modules have proven to be quite reliable. I guess they were made by a different GM parts supplier. However, they use two embedded SPDT relays to manage the switching between DRL and turn signal and, like any mechanical device, those are susceptible to failure. The replacement module (10407669) is very expensive ($240 retail) so you might want to check out some junk yards. The same part was used in all 98-02 f-bodies. I haven't tried it but I suppose you could open it up and see if the relays can be replaced. GM considers the modules "non-serviceable" but that doesn't mean that components aren't available.

 

I want to replace my BCM I am trying to find one one line but they all say they are Delco but they say new but they are remanufactured. Since they are reman. do I have to go to the dealer to have it programmed or will it work like brand new. It programs when you put the key in?? thank you

 

Wow my alarm was doing the same thing but was not sure if I could unplug and everything else would still work. I had the quarter panel painted and when they removed my antenna they moved my sensor now the darn things goes off every time I open the door..this is the best site ever. I dug the sensor out from behind the tire in hopes if I moved it, it would stop no luck. So I will just unplug the sucker..Thanks alot

 

You can't go to the dealer to get it reprogrammed. A BCM can't be reprogrammed by anyone. I suspect that part of the remanufacturing process is installation of new (blank) flash memory to make the BCM act like new - it will match itself to the first key used after installation. But I would contact the seller to be sure.

 

I am waiting to hear back to see what they mean, its listed as new but then it says remanufactured ..can you tell me how to disconnect the shock sensor I found it but having and issue unplugging it. my alarm goes off right after I open the door, tired of carrying my keys to shut it off thanks for the information

 

The symptoms you describe are not at all typical of a shock sensor problem. Usually the shock sensor gets moisture inside and starts causing false alarms after being armed. It does not usually have anything to do with unlocking the car.

Are you unlocking the door with the remote or with the key? If you are using the key to unlock then the alarm is working as designed. Using the key in the door to unlock does not disarm the alarm so as far as it's concerned, opening the door is a break-in. You can only disarm the alarm by using the remote or by turning the ignition on with an ignition key that is recognized by VATS.

 

I use the FOB and open the door and it alarms about 10 sec after door is open..I can just open the door without it being locked and the alarm goes off. This just started when the body shop moved my sensor..tried turning it counter clock wise but it still does the same thing just want to take it out. It every annoying and don't think my neighbors are happy with me. This car is really becoming a pain ..

 

There is nothing special about unplugging the shock sensor - just squeeze the locking tab and pull the connector out.

Please start a new thread if you still have issues with your alarm as this has nothing to do with the BCM fix.

 

Would this be the same as on a v6?

 

The BCM is the same on all 98-02 f-bodies. So is the shock sensor.

 

Add me to the list- this fixed my 99 I have had the issue a couple years and I could temp fix by hitting power lock button a time or two till radio came back on then all was good for a while.
on a side note I have a interface for my Ipod to plug into the CD changer port and sometimes it would not play sometimes, and sometimes would play as normal this BCM repair ALSO took care of this problem (even though radio/windows were working normally)
One happy camper now! thanks Whitebird and others - wish I'd done this sooner for sure

 

I tried starting the car yesterday morning. I turned the key and for a brief moment (no more than 1 second) the dash lights were on then off. Since then, the car has been dead. Nothing works. Is this BCM related? Other posts indicate that there were symptoms of a bad BCM such as radio or windows, but not sudden and complete loss of power. I replaced the battery but that wasn't it. Could a fuse cause this? Only other thing was that 2 weeks ago the security light came on. Solid, not flashing. Girlfriends car = my responsibility. Any help appreciated.

 

No, the BCM could not be responsible for total loss of power. It could stop the car from starting because of the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) that disables the starter relay and fuel enable if the correct key isn't used but all of the rest of the system would still work (lights, gauges, horn, turn signals, etc.).

 

Hello everyone, I own a 1998 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am. I have the same problem as a lot of people with my power windows and radio all going out at the same time intermittently. My mechanic said that he could find nothing wrong with the BCM and insists that the problem is actually the Window Control Module. Is it really possible that the Window Control Module could cause the problem? I am no mechanic or electrician. Any advice is appreciated.

 

Your mechanic isn't much of a mechanic or electrician either. Just basic logic should tell him that a "window control module" would have nothing to do with your radio cutting out at the same time.

Another big clue is that the window control module serves only to provide the express down function of the driver's side window and is not even connected to the passenger's window. The passenger's side window motor is wired direct from the circuit breaker through the driver's door switch and the passenger's door switch. There isn't even a relay involved. So how would he explain that?

I'm sorry if I sound sarcastic but I get tired of so-called professionals who are really just parts installers and have no diagnostic skills. </rant>

Rest assured that if both the windows and radio cut out at the same time, the only thing they have in common is the retained accessory power (RAP) circuit which is controlled by the BCM.

 

WhiteBird00, thanks for sticking with this thread for so long. I recently bought a 99 TA for my son and it is having the windows-radio shutoff issue. I have read the entire thread but not seen the specific additional problem mine sees to be having. The left brake light fails to come on when this is happening. My son was pulled over for brake lights out or we would have assumed it was (only) the BCM solder issue.

I started my trouble shooting and here is where I get really concerned. If I wiggle the turn signal stalk, the windows, radio and brake light all turn back on. Wiggle a bit more they all turn back off. Wipers, cruise and turn signals all work without issues regardless of the window and radio outages. I haven't had a chance to pull the BCM but cant seem to find a link to the turn signal-wiper-cruise switch and the radio-window BCM solder issue. Additionally the tilt steering column has lateral play (movement) in the 3 to 8 o'clock directions. I can only assume a large person pulled on the wheel to unstick his fat **** from the seat and eventually broke something in the steering/tilt mechanism *shrug*. The ignition key cylinder is tight and works smoothly.

I have worn my old eyes out reading threads this weekend on the stalk causing shorts but found nothing. You seem to be the resident guru so any input or direction before I start a dash and wiring teardown would be much appreciated. I know sticking it out on a forum for this long is tiresome but your input has helped me (while lurking) on many fixes and I wanted to say thanks even if you have no input on this unique twist to the BCM issue.

I found where you related some info concerning the TS switch in this thread (https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...t-problem.html) but cant put together how it relates to the BCM. I am bleary eyed so need to put this aside for a little bit.

 

I think you'll find that you have two separate problems - the RAP circuit (windows and radio) that is caused by the BCM solder break and a bad turn signal switch that probably was caused by whatever caused the looseness in the column. There is no connection between the turn signal circuit and the RAP circuit. In fact, there aren't even any RAP circuit wires in the steering column. The only wires in the column that connect to the BCM are the two VATS signal wires going to the ignition cylinder for the key resistor pellet.

On Firebirds, the brake light circuit runs through the turn signal switch so that it can control one side flashing while the other is on solid when the brakes are applied while the signals are in use. There are several small SPDT switches in the turn signal switch assembly that manage that. The brake and turn signal power is basically split from one input into separate left and right output in the T/S switch. It sounds like the internal switch for the left brake lights is not making good contact. You can test that theory using a jumper wire as described in the other thread you found.

The BCM fix should take care of the RAP circuit and is relatively easy. Unfortunately, replacing the turn signal switch is a pain. The switch itself is not terribly expensive ($80 at the dealer, about half that at rockauto.com... even less if you get one of the replica parts they sell). My concern is that the column movement might be a long term problem.

 

I got this information from another post on the site where a member had the same problem. The body control module underneath the console in the middle of the vehicle had to be removed opened up and I found a solder joint that had disintegrated on one of the relays I added a little Solder to the joint-reinstalled the BCM and everything works great I wish I had done that five years ago easy fix and it was free!

 

Finally got around to pulling the BCM tonight, the bottom "leg" on the T looks cracked but went ahead and re-did all of them, will reinstall tomorrow when the sun is back up.

Quick tip for anyone planning this, remove the kick panel that runs along the bottom of the door.

 

OK, so I was having the same problem as so many others with the intermittent windows/stereo. I pulled out the BCM and my boss, an electrical engineer, did the re-solder work. We decided to test it out. We plugged the wires directly into the circuit board without first putting it back in the little black box. I turned the key one position- activating the electrical power to the car- and POOF! Sparks and smoke!! Apparently we somehow burned out a lead. Here's where I'm at: the windows and stereo work (yay), but every time you open either door, the alarm goes off (very annoying), there are NO interior lights, and every time I put my foot on the brake, the trunk release activates. Also, the key fob won't lock the doors, although it will shut off the alarm. And lastly, I have no reserved power, if that's the right term, so that when you shut off the motor, everything shuts off. Before this happened, the lights and stereo wouldn't go off until you opened the door. Now- nothing. So, do I need a new BCM? And if so, how do I program it to my key? I need your help, guys. Thanks in advance.