Devils Mentor

iTrader: (20)

I may have missed it, but is there a way to eliminate the BCM all together?

I have a 98 T/A convertible and things are getting old on it and the chances of me finding one used (let alone one in good condition) has been impossible. Now I am not saying that I have any issue, however, the feature that allows you to turn off your car and keeps the radio playing until you open the door is no longer working, but besides that everything else seems fine; I just don't want to have my **** stop working out of nowhere, lol, so I would rather eliminate any future issues if at all possible.

I mean come on.... What if I am out with some hot piece of trim and it begins to rain... so she goes to roll up the window and zzZZZzzZZ...PoP! It won't roll up! Now lucky for me I date freaks that like to **** in all kinds of fucked up places so with my luck the chick would just rip her clothes off and demand to be pounded in the pouring rain, but I rather not take the chance

Oh and another question, does the BCM control the top too?

DM

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

Ok so I'm gathering that the PCM does not control at all what the cluster does except for a few lights. Would a short however in any way produce crazy gauge readings and activity? I'm having an odd issue with my cluster and I've checked all grounds and fuses. It's got something to do with wiring on the POWER ACCY circuit. The radio does not work as well...

oddwraith

iTrader: (1)

Lol, this stuff all sounds so familiar to me. Still troubleshooting my possessed Firehawk lol. I have it narrowed down to the bcm or the passenger side door switch/sensor. When I use the key fob to lock/arm the car sometimes I find it dead the next day (battery dead, replaced battery already lol). But when I lock it manually with the switch (not the power door locks) it stays charged. So it could be the alarm but I doubt it. The alarm runs through the bcm according to the wiring diagrams I've been looking over. So it could be the bcm, or the power locks. Again, manual locks seem to be fine, but something is draining my battery when locked with fob and/or armed. anyone else have this?

It's funny because last summer my car was winking at me, guages freaking out, weird noises and beeps, trunk release opening after arming the car and other weird ****. I did everything from replaced alternator to battery to load tests etc. I fixed it all except for the above mentioned problem. Let's just face it guys, these damn cars are possessed, and that's why they run so hard one day and win the race, and the next day they just wink at you. I think LS really does stand for Lucifer's Son lmao.

Dove804

You saved my sanity. I've been looking for the solution to this stupid problem for months now. Got a brand new Sony Bluetooth Stereo and can't hardly enjoy the thing for the radio and windows cutting out all the time. I have torn my car's interior apart looking for the problem. I have to drive the car to work for the rest of the weekend so it will be next week before I can attempt the fix but at least I know where to look. Thanks agsin.

Pushead

Even though the pictures are gone, your description is exactly what I needed. Time will tell if this fixes my radio/window problem, but based on everything I've read, this should do it.

Cheers!

jonlisa973

iTrader: (17)

Great Post!

cfallsguy

iTrader: (1)

Here's link w/ pics:
http://www.fbodyonline.com/how-to-fi...dio-and-locks/

myk

iTrader: (4)

Wow, great link, thanks man...

myk

iTrader: (4)

From what some people described I thought that pulling this thing out would be like spark plugs on an LT-1; I just did mine and it wasn't that bad. I'd say the worst part is having to work upside down on your back but it's doable. Funny thing is, I got all excited, yanked the board out, got my solder and iron ready, was about to put the iron on the solder joints then realized: wait, I've never soldered before in my entire life lol.

So, correct me if I'm wrong, but all we're doing is just heating up the joints to melt them a little, therefore fixing the cracks, and then allowing new rosin-core solder to melt on top of the entire joint to strengthen it? Obviously I didn't have anyone to consult with as I did this so I just melted, applied and cooled all 5 joints before throwing it all back together. The car seems fine and I can only hope my hack job of a fix is strong enough.

Now, if let's say I made things worse, what else can go wrong asides from losing retained power? Will the car not be able to start, develop driveability problems, etc.?

I'm going to leave the BCM loose and the covering and kick panels detached until I'm sure this thing was done properly.

Oh and on another note, when I popped off the lower glove box panel an XM head unit/controller popped out. I don't know anything about radios or satellite stuff, so what does this thing do exactly?

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Yeah you did it right basically. Reheat, apply a little fresh, so it all mixes together, then remove heat. And make sure you don't create any solder bridges - but it would be hard to do that with those joints unless you were using a giant amount of solder and were a very messy person

myk

iTrader: (4)

Times like this I wish I had a magnifying glass or something. I couldn't even SEE the cracks that are supposed to be causing the problem. I think I might've seen one on the bottom joint on the "T" but that's it. Well, there are now giant blobs of solder covering the joints. I made sure they weren't touching one another but honestly I just don't know how competent of a job this is; guess I'll find out sooner or later.

Oh, and if anyone's doing this solder fix I'd recommend checking out your blower motor also. I read this article: http://www.fbodyonline.com/fix-your-ac-heat-blower/

Since you've got your kick and bottom panels all out you might as well. I was disappointed though, as there was NO debris at all inside of the motor...

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

That's the thing. They are micro cracks, you won't really see much. If you DO see something obvious, then you've got a really bad case of it

I didn't have issues with that system, just my power locks not working. When I replaced the power lock relays I reheated those joints just to be sure I wouldn't have to pull that darn thing out again.

Dove804

Thanks racerX and SparkyJJo, I just fixed my pesky (the radio is on, now off, now on, now off) problem in just a few minutes. Thanks for re-posting the pic Sparky, I had my BCM out but wasn't sure which relay contacts were the right ones for sure. Thanks again guys.

SlayerMaro

iTrader: (3)

Just did this fix today, it's ALIIIIIVE!

I didn't realize how much never being able to take the tops off and having no radio pissed me off. Car is much more fun again.

johny

wtf did the pics and info go>?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Maybe you should have read more than just the first few posts before responding... particularly posts 121 and 147.

johny

thanks allot. sorry for not looking at it that well. lol i have a 97 but im sure its the same ls1 stuff. this problem is so annoying when ur listening to the radio or putting up the windows in the rain. thanks for point this stuff out i save a bunch of money.

SickZ28

iTrader: (8)

for anyone needing a bcm vatts box, im selling one in the parts classifieds

MAXXLIMIT

iTrader: (16)

I had this problem with my radio not working at times and when it didn't my power windows wouldn't work.

Took out my BCM which took like 10mins opened it up and did find small cracks on the soder joint. Resoder it put back in..................BAMMMM it works everytime now so far, cross my fingers, lol!!!

myk

iTrader: (4)

Yeah it wasn't as hard as some made it out to be, although suddenly my AM radio reception is gone and my FM has gotten bad. Goddammit. Now I gotta pull all that crap out again...