How to tell if I have aftermarket Heads?
01-10-2009, 09:56 PM
#21
Thanks yenko! I sadly couldn't find the old thread of when my car was for sale 
My hard drive crashed and I lost everything few weeks back.. Luckily I had written most of the mods on a piece of paper.. But i'll be paranoid checking over to make sure I have everything. I have a H/C LS6 setup with a LOT of stuff and exhaust work and the previous owner told me "Around 400RWHP.." does that sound right? Ive seen other cars on here with stock rear and all that with like 450rwhp and nothing else outstanding vs. my setup
My hard drive crashed and I lost everything few weeks back.. Luckily I had written most of the mods on a piece of paper.. But i'll be paranoid checking over to make sure I have everything. I have a H/C LS6 setup with a LOT of stuff and exhaust work and the previous owner told me "Around 400RWHP.." does that sound right? Ive seen other cars on here with stock rear and all that with like 450rwhp and nothing else outstanding vs. my setup
01-10-2009, 10:09 PM
#22
Thanks yenko! I sadly couldn't find the old thread of when my car was for sale
My hard drive crashed and I lost everything few weeks back.. Luckily I had written most of the mods on a piece of paper.. But i'll be paranoid checking over to make sure I have everything. I have a H/C LS6 setup with a LOT of stuff and exhaust work and the previous owner told me "Around 400RWHP.." does that sound right? Ive seen other cars on here with stock rear and all that with like 450rwhp and nothing else outstanding vs. my setup
My hard drive crashed and I lost everything few weeks back.. Luckily I had written most of the mods on a piece of paper.. But i'll be paranoid checking over to make sure I have everything. I have a H/C LS6 setup with a LOT of stuff and exhaust work and the previous owner told me "Around 400RWHP.." does that sound right? Ive seen other cars on here with stock rear and all that with like 450rwhp and nothing else outstanding vs. my setup
Mine is an A4 as well.. 3500 TCI converter I believe. I have a lot more mods I haven't spoken about at all so i'm just curious if 400 was about right
01-10-2009, 10:15 PM
#24
Your PCV system is disabled...I'd reconnect it, convert to an LS6 PCV if it's a concern, it's better for your oil...plus it's something you can do when you have the intake off to see the porting in the heads.
If the rust is bad on the headers, you can remove them and send them out to be coated again...or you could invest in some new stainless ones (plus they have emissions blockoffs on them...you could get some new headers that don't have any emissions stuff to block off.
If the rust is bad on the headers, you can remove them and send them out to be coated again...or you could invest in some new stainless ones (plus they have emissions blockoffs on them...you could get some new headers that don't have any emissions stuff to block off.
01-10-2009, 10:19 PM
#25
^^ I believe that's why the crankcase filter is in the valve cover. I bought the car with that done, so could you point out where it would be that the line would run to? I think I know but I wanna be sure, I like knowing whats done to my car of course, lol.
when i bought the car it had a 2,800 stall i plan to upgrade to a 3,600-4,000 when i do H/C in a couple months
01-10-2009, 10:21 PM
#27
I feel like I don't know wtf is in my car.
01-10-2009, 10:29 PM
#29
If you're not driving it for the winter, and it's in a garage...no better time to pickup a good space heater and start taking things apart to learn whats in there and also how to re-assemble things properly...plus you can clean everything more too (like the headers and anything else you find that isn't clean).
Oh also...you said it's a 99 a while ago...stock heads on that would have been 853's. If it were a 2000, they could be 853 or 241 (I own both, my Camaro is 241, my LS1 in my b-body is a 2000 with 853) and 01/02 would be 241 also.
Oh also...you said it's a 99 a while ago...stock heads on that would have been 853's. If it were a 2000, they could be 853 or 241 (I own both, my Camaro is 241, my LS1 in my b-body is a 2000 with 853) and 01/02 would be 241 also.
01-10-2009, 11:57 PM
#30
If you're not driving it for the winter, and it's in a garage...no better time to pickup a good space heater and start taking things apart to learn whats in there and also how to re-assemble things properly...plus you can clean everything more too (like the headers and anything else you find that isn't clean).
Oh also...you said it's a 99 a while ago...stock heads on that would have been 853's. If it were a 2000, they could be 853 or 241 (I own both, my Camaro is 241, my LS1 in my b-body is a 2000 with 853) and 01/02 would be 241 also.
Oh also...you said it's a 99 a while ago...stock heads on that would have been 853's. If it were a 2000, they could be 853 or 241 (I own both, my Camaro is 241, my LS1 in my b-body is a 2000 with 853) and 01/02 would be 241 also.
01-11-2009, 12:01 AM
#31
Just to make it even more confusing, the last owner who I bought it from said it had a 3000 Super Street fighter TC. The owner before him who found me on youtube, told me about the heads and that the car had a 3500 TCI converter.
I feel like I don't know wtf is in my car.
I feel like I don't know wtf is in my car.
I also ended up finding the original owner on here and he has been a big help and is a real nice guy.
01-11-2009, 12:31 AM
#34
The number in the 3rd picture is a work order number from whom ever worked on the heads. They use this to keep track of what was done to a customers set of heads. If you can find out what commpany did the work you can call and confirm they are in fact stage 2.5 Heads....
Happy hunting!!!
Happy hunting!!!
01-11-2009, 01:50 AM
#35
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Numbers The numbers stamped into the bottom of the head look exactly like the numbers in my factory heads. I sent a set of 6.0L heads to Patriot Performance and had then CNC'd and rebuilt. The numbers represented a work order number to make sure I got my same set of heads back. Might want to shoot them an email or call and see if they did the heads.
BRIAN
BRIAN
01-11-2009, 05:44 PM
#36
Well that would be quite a hunt, wouldn't it? hahah. God only knows where they went..
I know the previous owner's name on here too, and I have his friend's name who's on here more often. Came in handy a few times.. Two owners ago says its a TCI 3500 and the last owner said there's no way it doesn't feel like that big of a stall, but this is my first time with a car that has a TC so i'm not sure. I wouldn't mind taking some crap apart, but I wouldn't wanna mess anything up either, lol. I have to change my hood struts before I do anything, the bottom of the struts come off with a bolt but the top looks odd
I know the previous owner's name on here too, and I have his friend's name who's on here more often. Came in handy a few times.. Two owners ago says its a TCI 3500 and the last owner said there's no way it doesn't feel like that big of a stall, but this is my first time with a car that has a TC so i'm not sure. I wouldn't mind taking some crap apart, but I wouldn't wanna mess anything up either, lol. I have to change my hood struts before I do anything, the bottom of the struts come off with a bolt but the top looks odd
01-11-2009, 05:52 PM
#37
Oh, one more thing. How difficult is it to take the intake off? I was thinking of having it powdercoated.. I would need to find a good powdercoater and see how much an intake would even cost. I took the intake off my TBI 87 Camaro and that was a pain the ***, so.
Thanks for everything guys, i appreciate it.
Thanks for everything guys, i appreciate it.
01-11-2009, 08:13 PM
#38
to me its not hard, way easier then the old school small blocks. but how easy it is, is relative to your mechanical abilities. there are no water jackets or gaskets to worry about(uses rubber o-rings) like your old TBI motor. here is a great write up and website. when i first started working on LS1's years ago this was the site i turned to for guidance. take a look and see if you feel comfortable doing it. it really isn't hard, an LS6 intake swap was the very first mod i ever did to an LS1 (was on a friends C5, I put one on my SS not long after though)
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
Im really not the one to ask about painting/powder coating but i think most people sand and paint them, not sure how the composite intake would take the heat of baking on the powder coating ???
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
Im really not the one to ask about painting/powder coating but i think most people sand and paint them, not sure how the composite intake would take the heat of baking on the powder coating ???
01-12-2009, 12:35 AM
#39
Thanks for the site. I think I could do it, the only thing that worries me is breaking something, but it doesn't look like there's much to break. So there's no huge gasket like on my TBI to replace? i have an LS6 as well so I don't think itd be too much of a pain. Is there a lot more to remove after the TB/MAF assembly and the intake bolts? I didn't read through the whole thing yet, and from what I remember it doesn't look like there were a lot of stuff into the intake.
01-12-2009, 12:57 AM
#40
off the top of my head:
remove MAF/TB, unhook various hoses/lines a front, unbolt fuel rails and pop the injectors loose, reach behind intake & unhook map sensor a small vacume line, unhook brake booster line from booster, unbolt intake from motor, slowly fish the brake booster line thru (while trying not to snag/break the oil pressure sending unit with it lol)as your pull the intake forward
the write up from the link says to unbolt the intake first and remove the injectors and stuff later i prefer to unbolt the rails get them and the injectors out of the way so you have more room to get to everything else.
heres a pic of the bottem side of the intake to give you an idea of how it seals, no more huge gasket to scrap off
remove MAF/TB, unhook various hoses/lines a front, unbolt fuel rails and pop the injectors loose, reach behind intake & unhook map sensor a small vacume line, unhook brake booster line from booster, unbolt intake from motor, slowly fish the brake booster line thru (while trying not to snag/break the oil pressure sending unit with it lol)as your pull the intake forward
the write up from the link says to unbolt the intake first and remove the injectors and stuff later i prefer to unbolt the rails get them and the injectors out of the way so you have more room to get to everything else.
heres a pic of the bottem side of the intake to give you an idea of how it seals, no more huge gasket to scrap off
Last edited by 69_YENKO; 01-12-2009 at 01:03 AM.