TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Well that sux (for me) that you have 5.3 heads... That is a good find. I have stock 241 heads. but i am making 415RWHP

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Ah that looks sweet! And torchd you lucky bastard! Haha. Think you got a few more HP than me

I appreciate all the help though, I really think i'm going to start ripping some stuff apart. I might end up painting the intake myself. Damn powderocating is pricey!

Alright, I got a new question for ya. I think i'm gonna take off my valve covers and paint them red, and probably paint the intake gunmetal or something. I'm pretty sure the valve covers are easy to get to. They do have gaskets that I will need to replace, correct? If there are, what kinda sealant needs to be put down on them? aaaand last but not least do I need to find someone to borrow a torque wrench from to torque them down or what? I feel like such a noob
Thanks again

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

You do not need to replace the gaskets on the valve covers. Well, you usually don't... There isn't much pressure around them so they don't get torqued down real tight at all. Im sure there are torque specs somewhere, but i just did mine hand tight with a socket. And yea, they are easy to get to. Just have to take off the coil bracket and thats it.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

So you can reuse the gaskets? Would I have to put more sealant down? And like you said, just tighten the bolts back down nice and tight?
Thanks

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

In my experience, why re-use a crushed gasket? That screams trouble. I have ALWAYS replaced gaskets for peace of mind. B/C lets say you put it all back together, and guess what you oil is leaking out of your valve covers. I bet you are going to kick yourself in the *** b/c you will have to take it all apart again. When you could have done it right the first time. that is JMO though

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

hahha and i am on STOCK heads too

sen does great work. He lives about 15 mins from me, seen his prouducts and seen set up. Trust me his powdercoating is top notch

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I believe there only like $20 for set of cover gaskets... They can be reused if you know there not leaking. How ever as mentioned before why reuse something that may have been subjected to many heat cycles and may not hold the tension It once use to... Plus new ones are cheap enough... No Sealent required... Clean and dry real good is all that is required... There is an actual tourque value but because there is a spacer that bottoms out I believe most are just tighten them up by hand with out an actuall tourqe Value.... Just Good-N-Tight

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Valve covers and coil packs are off, in basement, ready for paint. Deciding on the intake
The gaskets on my valve covers look perfectly fine, so i'll probably reuse them, not sure.
Will post pics of valve springs and internals for the hell of it, I also have a question about the PCV system. Dinner time, be back soon with pics.

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Alright, here are the pics. The valve springs and everything look real clean so i'm happy about that, it's pretty cool working on this car now, coming from my 87 TBI 305. The LS1's have a lot of cool stuff now







Now here's my question. The PCV system is inactive in my car. The throttle body ports are plugged, as is the port for the TB on this series of hoses. My question is, can I delete this hose completely? Plug up the two ports on the passenger side valve cover and just leave the PCV in the other valve cover? Or do they NEED to be able to vent?
This is the hose i'm talking about:


Deleting those hoses would clean up a lot. I have a crankcase breather so it can still "breathe" with the PCV inactive.

Oh yeah, if I decide to take off the intake, how do I take off those throttle cables? Do they just lift out from that spot?
Thanks again!

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

I would stiil get new gaskets man. I would never chance it.

How hard is it to get the valve covers off and coil packs off? I know you have to remove a fuel line and the fuel bar?

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Nope, didn't even do that I'd say it took me an hour, maybe? If you look in my pictures you can see on the drivers side that all the fuel lines are still there. I was gonna remove them but I didn't want fuel spilling all over the place. I just slid the coil packs out, then slid the valve covers out. I was taking my sweet time listening to Zeppelin too

btw for everyone these are the hoses i'm wondering if I can remove:

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Do you have perimeter bolt valve covers? Or do you have center bolted valve covers?

i have never taken anything off my motor

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Neither have I, this is my first time. Their center bolts, really tiny head. Four bolts from left to right in the center of the cover

I already have one coat of primer on the valve covers, and I just need to clear coat the coils now. I plan on finish priming tonight and pickup some gunmetal paint tomorrow. For some reason i'm dreading removing my intake.

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

the valve covers like pretty much everything else on the LSX motors are O-ringed they are ment to be able to be reused, this is not your low tech SBC. don't sweat it they'll be fine

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Good thing your here I have another question..
I noticed that actually, there was no paper like gasket anywhere when I took the covers off, just the rubber o-ring type thing on the valve cover itself. I didn't bother to investigate it as i didnt wanna disrupt it

As for my question, am I going to have to disconnect fuel lines when I take the intake off? I mean the fuel tubings themselves, where I might get fuel everywhere. What should I do about that? I think i'm either just gonna try to use filler primer to fill in the casting marks on the intake, or i'm going to have to sand the living hell out of it. I'm probably gonna go at the intake tomorrow

Oh yeah, am I going to need a torque wrench when I put the intake back on? I don't think I can just tighten that down nice and tight unfortunately haha

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

you can disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail (release the built up preassure by pushing in on the Schrader valve at the end of the rail while also holding a rag to catch what drips out) or you can leave it connected anf after you pop the rail//injectors out of the intake just lay them over out of the way on the drivers side inner fender, I normally do it this way and cover the injectors with a rag.

again i don't know much about painting but i think the intake it rough enough that the primer wont be able to hide everything. im sure it would turn out better if you were to sand and smooth it out. I did find a guy who powdercoats intakes in the sponsor classifieds section, though its not cheap around 130$

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Yeah I think that's Silverghost. I'm not expecting it to turn out like it was powdercoated. As long as it looks clean, glossy and fits nicely i'll be happy. Is the shredder valve the cylinder looking thing that the fuel line connects to?

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

check this out. steps 6-10 apply to what your doing

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...lacement_1.htm

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Thank you Any idea what I should do about whats left of the PCV hoses/system in the car? The ports on the TB are blocked off. The only things remaining are the actual PCV in the drivers valve cover, connected to two ports on the passenger valve cover. Do these need to be connected or can I plug them?

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Oh yeah so do I need a torque wrench for when I put the intake back on?