So I sealed my airbox completely....
02-01-2009, 05:10 PM
#81
02-01-2009, 05:55 PM
#82
Thats a pic of mine, I cut the radiator core support out, not the whole thing, just under the air box, and I left the front part where the hood latch bolts to.
02-01-2009, 05:59 PM
#83
Most people don't want to cut their cars up, because we all know they're going to be worth millions in the future.
Thats a pic of mine, I cut the radiator core support out, not the whole thing, just under the air box, and I left the front part where the hood latch bolts to.
Thats a pic of mine, I cut the radiator core support out, not the whole thing, just under the air box, and I left the front part where the hood latch bolts to.
02-01-2009, 06:17 PM
#84
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Did you read the thread? The OP has a ftra, thats the point he was making by sealing it up, so the air incoming from the FTRA was the only source, sealing up the lid and the front of the airbox.
02-02-2009, 12:54 AM
#86
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The OP has a fast toys ram air system and sealed his airbox to get better pressurization of the lid. Without pressurization, you can't get as many of the increases in performance as you could otherwise. Instead of accusing me of being a smartass, please try reading the thread instead next time.
02-02-2009, 04:18 PM
#89
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Pressurized by the ram air system.
The OP has a fast toys ram air system and sealed his airbox to get better pressurization of the lid. Without pressurization, you can't get as many of the increases in performance as you could otherwise. Instead of accusing me of being a smartass, please try reading the thread instead next time.
The OP has a fast toys ram air system and sealed his airbox to get better pressurization of the lid. Without pressurization, you can't get as many of the increases in performance as you could otherwise. Instead of accusing me of being a smartass, please try reading the thread instead next time.
02-03-2009, 07:15 AM
#91
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I'm not sure about all of this...I have cut out the bottom of the lower air box (fra) and removed the baffle from the WS-6 hood.
I have a Direct Flo lid and my car runs awesome with this set-up.
Air comes up from the bottom and flows in from the hood scoops..
check my sig..
I have a Direct Flo lid and my car runs awesome with this set-up.
Air comes up from the bottom and flows in from the hood scoops..
check my sig..
02-03-2009, 08:47 AM
#92
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IMO just a simple removal of the CRAP that they put in the hood nostrils helps alot! all you have to do is drill out the rivets.. there are 2 black things that need to be removed and a huge air director thing. that and sealing it all up to where the only air entering in your engine is the air coming in though the nose, would be the best way at acheiveing the ultimate hp/mpg gain. this would be true RAMAIR....i personaly would rather have that then something blocking my radiator... yaya no big deal, I LIVE IN TEXAS haha... plus the water suckage? if its pulling SOOO much vaccuum, then gravity wont stop the water from coming in, cuz it will be SUCKED in... but of course, im a newb and its only my opinion... but im going to remove the reset of the JUNK in myhood at lunch today, and weather strip it all up to where only air enters the nose....this method is a DIRECT jet of air into the intake.... jsut my 0.02$
02-03-2009, 09:41 AM
#93
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Me. Although I didn't spend nearly that much LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...m-ram-air.html
Sux2bu.
etc etc etc etc etc.......There are tons of people with results.
I used two aluminum dryer ducts. IATs before? 130s. After? Like 95 on when it was 93 out WHEN IDLING IN PARK. Key words there. Idling.
Oh and btw, I had the free version where you cut and I was getting 130s when idling. Granted it WOULD drop once you got going but why not drop it to ambient when your not moving.......like say at staging lights?
My car was 1/10th slower than my brother's t/a with a dyno verified 369whp on the same day with nearly the same 60 fts.
Last edited by Lickeyman; 02-03-2009 at 09:47 AM.
02-03-2009, 11:30 AM
#94
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^^thats badass. i may rip you off and do a similar setup. but probably only 1 hose. or possibly 2 smaller hoses. i dont want to cut the radiator support unless i cant figure something else out
02-03-2009, 01:39 PM
#95
LOL, do you do HVAC work?
That looks like some dryer exhaust set ups I've done in custom homes.
Nice work.
That looks like some dryer exhaust set ups I've done in custom homes.
Nice work.
Me. Although I didn't spend nearly that much LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...m-ram-air.html
Sux2bu.
etc etc etc etc etc.......There are tons of people with results.
I used two aluminum dryer ducts. IATs before? 130s. After? Like 95 on when it was 93 out WHEN IDLING IN PARK. Key words there. Idling.
Oh and btw, I had the free version where you cut and I was getting 130s when idling. Granted it WOULD drop once you got going but why not drop it to ambient when your not moving.......like say at staging lights?
My car was 1/10th slower than my brother's t/a with a dyno verified 369whp on the same day with nearly the same 60 fts.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...m-ram-air.html
Sux2bu.
etc etc etc etc etc.......There are tons of people with results.
I used two aluminum dryer ducts. IATs before? 130s. After? Like 95 on when it was 93 out WHEN IDLING IN PARK. Key words there. Idling.
Oh and btw, I had the free version where you cut and I was getting 130s when idling. Granted it WOULD drop once you got going but why not drop it to ambient when your not moving.......like say at staging lights?
My car was 1/10th slower than my brother's t/a with a dyno verified 369whp on the same day with nearly the same 60 fts.
02-03-2009, 02:07 PM
#96
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Pop is a plumber though.......You should see my "custom" copper nitrous line complete with home made jets LOL It's not installed yet but it's close. Can't beat free.
02-03-2009, 06:22 PM
#98
Me. Although I didn't spend nearly that much LOL
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...m-ram-air.html
Sux2bu.
etc etc etc etc etc.......There are tons of people with results.
I used two aluminum dryer ducts. IATs before? 130s. After? Like 95 on when it was 93 out WHEN IDLING IN PARK. Key words there. Idling.
Oh and btw, I had the free version where you cut and I was getting 130s when idling. Granted it WOULD drop once you got going but why not drop it to ambient when your not moving.......like say at staging lights?
My car was 1/10th slower than my brother's t/a with a dyno verified 369whp on the same day with nearly the same 60 fts.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...m-ram-air.html
Sux2bu.
etc etc etc etc etc.......There are tons of people with results.
I used two aluminum dryer ducts. IATs before? 130s. After? Like 95 on when it was 93 out WHEN IDLING IN PARK. Key words there. Idling.
Oh and btw, I had the free version where you cut and I was getting 130s when idling. Granted it WOULD drop once you got going but why not drop it to ambient when your not moving.......like say at staging lights?
My car was 1/10th slower than my brother's t/a with a dyno verified 369whp on the same day with nearly the same 60 fts.
You know, you can make a point without coming across with an attitude. Like I said before, before anyone started taking parts of my statements out of their contexts, is that the FTRA, Sux2bu, SSRA take air from the outside, which, would help when you're idling for a while.
I said that. You can go look too.
My point was:
1. They reach the same temp when moving.
2. I don't see how the ftra causes pressurization.
THEN, I requested more info on it.
Thats what happened. Oh, and as for the search thing, I did that, but sometimes you have questions that search can't answer.
Last edited by Ironxcross; 02-03-2009 at 06:28 PM.
02-04-2009, 09:34 AM
#99
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well i did the FRA, drove the ta to work yesterday. i can honestly say my "*** dyno" wasnt feeling much difference (if any). but on the other hand i dont see how it could hurt anything and it has got to be getting cooler air once moving. especially at freeway speeds (and beyond lol)
02-04-2009, 11:00 AM
#100
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You know, you can make a point without coming across with an attitude. Like I said before, before anyone started taking parts of my statements out of their contexts, is that the FTRA, Sux2bu, SSRA take air from the outside, which, would help when you're idling for a while.
I said that. You can go look too.
My point was:
1. They reach the same temp when moving.
2. I don't see how the ftra causes pressurization.
THEN, I requested more info on it.
Thats what happened. Oh, and as for the search thing, I did that, but sometimes you have questions that search can't answer.
I said that. You can go look too.
My point was:
1. They reach the same temp when moving.
2. I don't see how the ftra causes pressurization.
THEN, I requested more info on it.
Thats what happened. Oh, and as for the search thing, I did that, but sometimes you have questions that search can't answer.
1. I personally don't like the free ram air because you let air that was meant for the radiator go to the engine number 1 and number 2 it gets hot as F*&# idling or once warmed up. Moving along though it works, I have two dirty *** spots on my old filter that indicate air was slamming into it where the hole was cut below it. IMO the high IATs are the problem and the free ram air works at speed but doesn't solve the low speed issues except maybe a little less restriction which would help some.
2. Air dam under the car does it. Some guys overheat if it isn't under the car because it directs that much air.
Wasn't trying to be a dick sorry if I came across that way but your answer is found with search.