Ive got a 1999 gmc sierra 5.3l. I would like to get a 6.0l but my have to settle with just buying performance parts such as rotating assemblie, intake etc... Any suggestions for cam size. type of Intake manifold? Efi or carb? Cylinder heads? Boring 30 or 60 over? Crankshaft stroke. I have a pair of LT headers and a flowmaster cat back as well. Would true dialing it make much of a difference?

 

The max you can bore the 5.3 is a little bit over the stock LS1 bore. You can buy a 383 rotating assembly, which is 3.905" pistons and 4" stroke crank. If you decide to go that route then you may benefit from a true dual setup with a crossover, but if you stay stock cubes I'd keep the Y-pipe and 3" catback. For a stock cube 5.3 you will want a cam with no more than 224 degrees duration, the stroker setup will tolerate a much larger cam. I'm an EFI guy so I'm definitely not gonna vote for the carb route.

There is lots of good reading in the internal engine section. The stickies at the top of the page(highlighted gold) have alot of information that anyone just starting to mod their engine should read. If you look at the top of this site there are some tabs, click on the Performance Trucks tab(your same username and password work there) and you'll find alot more truck oriented info.

 

I saw that you had stage 2.5 heads and an aftermarket fast 90 intake. What type of heads would be compatible with my stock set up and what would be too much. What steps would i need to take to get the most oomph out of my machine? Im serious about getting the rotating assembly with the 4 inch crankshaft. Will any ls1 or ls6 intake manifold work for my lm7 engine? if so which would work best? with the camshaft, does the lobe separation play a big role? 110 or 112 115?

I looked at the performance truck forums and found a lot of useful information. You seem to be more specific with what im talking about though. I need to post another thread on the truck site now. Thanks!

 

If you bore the engine a stage 2 or 2.5 head will work well, but if you don't you will want something with a smaller intake valve than those heads offer. Any LS1/LS6 type intake will bolt to the heads, but will not clear the accessory drive on the truck engine. To run a car style intake you would have to swap your accessories to a car style setup. Generally speaking the tighter lobe separation will move the powerband lower in the RPM range and peak sooner than the same cam with a wider LSA. The tighter LSA will also have a slightly rougher/lopier idle.

 

Sounds good. I think ill look a little more into the 383 rotating assembly to see if the walls will still be thick enough. would you go the 383 route? what do you think about this cam 196/ 207 duration at .050 and .467/.479 lift with a 116 LSA. so a cam could make my truck sound like a dragster, what kind numbers would i look for in that LSA? haha sweet.

 

That looks like a stock LS1/6.0L cam and is definitely not what you want. Personally, I wouldn't do a 383 because for about the same money you can have a 408.

 

go to the performancetrucks.net tab and do some searchin. a cam, few bolts, 3k converter and 4.10s will get you in the high 12s if your single cab.. cam wise most guys like the tr220-tr224 cams. a few guys have gone bigger but they also have bigger converters..just depends on what you want

 

Ethan,
If you are interested in doing a stroker or forged 5.7L setup, checkout our shortblocks page. http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/Short%20Blocks.htm

I would recommend our Crawler cam. It makes great torque and has a slight idle lump to it. It works really well in the vehicles we have used it in.

 

do i just have someone bore my cylinders out and install the stroker kit? what kind of cam would i need for a 383 set up?

 

Are you talking about our packages that I showed you or the drop in kits?
If you are talking about our stuff, that includes the block and is assembled as a short block. In other words, it is put together to the point of the heads, cam and all the covers needing to be installed.