BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I thought about that when I was buying parts & piecing this set-up together. But then I was like "nope, I'm clampin this **** all up, god knows if I dont I'll be chasin vacuum leaks for months", LOL

I'm hopin replacing all my PCV lines with fresh hose will cure my current problem as well.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

I have a single stage dry sump from one of Lingenfelters ASA race car LS1s. Is a PCV set up redundent on a dry sump engine?

SpinsB

iTrader: (5)

here is a diagram I got from an older post a guy did for me showing how to hook up the dual set up. this diagram is for an ls6/2 vally. hope this helps




also have a question about the line I have going from my brake booster to the back side of my fast intake. What should be done with that.??

SpinsB

iTrader: (5)

ttt.....

Johnmaster

iTrader: (3)

bump for one of the more lengthy in depth threads Ive ever read.

Has anyone taken apart either of the brands of cc's to see what they are using for filter media? I am convinced the right type of stainless or aluminum scouring pad I am thinking of would work perfect. Lots of surfaces to collect residue and slow flow but free flowing enough so it can dribble down into the bottom.

02sleeperz28

iTrader: (26)

So, I know I said in my previous post that I was going to purchase a dual catch can set up, but I didn't. I should have though! So, I've been reading through this thread, looking at all the diagrams, and it made me want to go look at my setup in the garage. I then realized that the way the hoses were connected with the brand catch can I purchased(Thunder Racing) the catch can was not actually catching anything! This kinda pissed me off! So, I went back to the diagrams and started reconfiguring the hoses according to what Aaron had drawn out. The most difficult parts were the valley cover on the back passenger side. Once that was removed and capped, everything else was a breeze!

Thanks Aaron!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I was searching earlier tonight and found this thread. I've looked over it but I am going to have to drink a beer and go over it again.

My 00' Hawk didn't used very little oil before my H/C/I swap. Maybe 1/2 every 3,000 miles. I am using Mobil 1 10w30.

When I did my H/C/I/E swap I put on a Norris catch can. I hooked it up the way the instructions showed but after reading this thread I'm pretty sure it's not right. The car smokes @WOT and a little bit as soon as I let off the gas from a WOT run. It's using oil and the can is catching it. Here is what I have now. The PCV lines are still hooked up like factory on the rear of engine between the two valve covers. The only thing I did was just put the can inline on the front. I am going to change it tomorrow to the LS1 setup w/ single can pic shown earlier in the thread. This is what I have. I was looking at it tonight and noticed the PCV valve is not tight in the rubber grommet it goes in to and there is oil on the front of the intake. I assume from it blowing out.

WS.666

iTrader: (28)

Yeah, that looks fine, but personally, I've move the PCV Valve to the "clean side" of the catch can, that way it doesn't get gummed up with oil.

Johnmaster

iTrader: (3)

Blue smoke when you let off is usually entering through the valve guides, a motor spinning down from high rpm against a closed throttle is going to pull it's highest vacuum, drawing any oil/air through the guide seals that it can.

On throttle I don't know, but I just got to witness it with my old car when I put it on the rollers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oc1lPkaAV2c

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Found out my valve seals were toast which is why it started smoking. There's was quite a bit of oil in the catch can.

I'm going to replace the brass fittings/hoses with black twist loc hose and fittings. I need a PCV valve to put between the can and the T/B. I know there are about 100 different kinds. I remember someone mentioning it before but I went back through the thread and couldn't find it.

Which PCV valve should I get? It would need to accept 3/8 hose on both ends. Thanks.



------------------------------

Added. How do PCV valves differ? Flow rate, what vacuum/PSI they operate at?

I wish I could find something like this with the correct threads, then I could screw it into the catch can and would make a clean install.

cbloveday

iTrader: (1)

Here is my catch can routing, on my old tvs 1900 blower. I basically routed the Saikou Michi dual can as follows

Fresh Line: Inlet port to can port attached to balve cover breathers
Outlet port from catch can attached to Intake tube

Foul Line: Inlet port to catch can attached to valley port
Outlet port from catch can attached to TB

I simply put the can (in line) with the existing fresh and foul lines, per Mr. Seranno's advice




Here is a recent pic with the new tvs2300. I just routed it the same way.




Once I get the tranny addressed and my torque converter next week , I will see what she will do at the track vs the 1900.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

How are the guys with fabbed moroso valve covers with the ls6 valley cover running your cans? I haven't seen much on that.

NOTFAST

iTrader: (10)

so what needs to be done differently with a 98 ls1 compared to 99+? basic single catch can.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Just got my Rx catch can and now I know why there is so much confusion on how to route everything....the instructions SUCK!! They show it different than this diagram below.

Is this diagram the same with or without the breather on the oil cap? Is the breather really necessary on my H/C/I car? I really don't care for the look on a 4th gen, the 5th gen looks ok because it's recessed in the engine cover.

Also, is the "side of the catch can" in the diagram the outlet? Both fittings are on the top of the Rx can

COSPEED

iTrader: (331)

Do you understand we don't make these JUST for F-Bodys? Do you also understand that these F-Bodys are configured differently with people upgrading their valley covers and valve covers with the newer style or mixing them with the older covers? So it's difficult to have instructions for every LS vehicle out there.
Instead of saying it SUCKS, just address your question in a manner so that someone is going to be more willing to help.

I'd be more than happy to help you with how to properly route it. Email pics of the back area of your drivers side valve cover, passenger side valve cover and your valley cover if you can. If not, just explain it as best as you can in an email. We have PDFs of several routing diagrams we can email over that will probably cover your H/C setup.

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Not trying to offend anybody just stating the obvious. I just assumed i'd be getting F-body instructions when I choose that from the drop down menu of car choices, not pics of a 5th gen.

I posted the diagram above because that's the setup I currently have. I'm running the stock PCV system with the LS1 valley cover, I bought the car brand new and have not changed it. Just confused because I've got 2 schools of thought here.

Sent you an E-mail.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I would not cap the back of the pass. side GM Y- this vacunm tube for a reason leave it on.

This is how I have mine setup. then I used the home depot ( I allready had) as a secondary kindof like a proof CC.

I'm using the pcv stock location before the double chambered CC, then the HD.

works great.

Badmfkr

BrntWS6

iTrader: (7)

Alight, thanks for actually answering my question. I'm guessing that diagram is with the breather in the oil cap then. Diagrams like this would be very helpful with these kits and there probably wouldn't be 21page threads of confusion with how to route these things.

JTtransAM

Just installed my catch can that I got from the WS6 store using the attached diagram. Completely replaced all of the tubing with new hose and everything seems to be working fine. Only problem I have is now the SES light is on. Anyone know what is causing this and should I be worried?

Mike52

iTrader: (1)

Have you scanned for a code? Would help to know the DTC.