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Man I never get any oil in my catch can and I'm still on the ls1 valley cover. As long as I don't have to replace my rear main seal due to crankcase pressure being too high, I'm good.
I have done 2 rear main seals, one on an LQ9 and one on an LS1 and they were both incredibly difficult to remove. Granted, I have only seen two but but figuring out how long it took me to remove them, I doubt crankcase pressure would cause one to fail. I'm talking like it took me 30 min to remove them. They somehow, for better or worse, weld themselves to the sleeve they slip into. They are a nightmare lol.
Just remember the same blow-by gases that are coming out of your valley cover and being sucked through your catch can is the same thing coming from that passenger valve cover.
It's not drawing from the valve cover. The valve cover is drawing from the throttle body. It's relieving the vacuum created by the dirty side.
It's only when the dirty side can't keep up that the clean side might reverse and actually draw from the valve cover. That is when you want a second can.
Again, you do not want to tie the two sides together.
I'm beginning to realize that this thread is here and so are you to promote the sale of your products. Venting to atmosphere does not hurt engines. PERIOD!
that makes no sense. i have been consistently helping people do it right and save money and frustration for free since I understand the subject very well.
i did not start this thread, nor was i in any sort of catch can business when it was started.
lastly. you are not even paying attention. almost every can mms sells is able to vent to atmosphere.
If you cannot answer a simple question in order to legitimize your claim then you really are not adding anything useful.
I'm beginning to realize that this thread is here and so are you to promote the sale of your products. Venting to atmosphere does not hurt engines. PERIOD!
I have no affiliation with mighty mouse. I choose the MM can because with my old can, after pulling my car in the garage and shutting the door, the smell was bad. Now if the car sits outside or is a full out race car it certainly doesn't matter.
I already tried the make your own catch deal. What a joke that was for a car that sits in my garage with poor ventilation where the fumes can get into the house.
Not for me since I park my car in an attached garage. For anyone else that has an attached garage and parks their car there, buy the MM catch can or something with a PCV valve in the can. Don't try to do it yourself like I did and waste your time resulting in a garage that smells like **** every time you pull the car in.
Last edited by 5.7stroker; 01-31-2020 at 02:42 PM.
I have done 2 rear main seals, one on an LQ9 and one on an LS1 and they were both incredibly difficult to remove. Granted, I have only seen two but but figuring out how long it took me to remove them, I doubt crankcase pressure would cause one to fail. I'm talking like it took me 30 min to remove them. They somehow, for better or worse, weld themselves to the sleeve they slip into. They are a nightmare lol.
When I bought the car it had a small RMS leak. I figured it must have been caused by poor crankcase pressure so I changed the seal and added the MM catch can for peace of mind.
Last edited by 5.7stroker; 01-31-2020 at 02:37 PM.
that makes no sense. i have been consistently helping people do it right and save money and frustration for free since I understand the subject very well.
i did not start this thread, nor was i in any sort of catch can business when it was started.
lastly. you are not even paying attention. almost every can mms sells is able to vent to atmosphere.
If you cannot answer a simple question in order to legitimize your claim then you really are not adding anything useful.
Okay here's my take on the subject. By running a breather can or cans for that matter and capping all of the PCV connections off there is no way for the blow-by to be sucked into the intake manifold. No check valves, no PCV valves just good old fashioned venting to atmosphere. Your not going to see "racing engines" utilizing PCV systems, not serious ones anyway. I really do not know exactly how the MMS works as I've never really researched it other than seeing there's mild to wild systems. Racers use vacuum pumps to pull on the crankcase but they are not using the intake manifold to do it and they are certainly not sending it right back into the intake manifold to be re-ignited and pushed out the tailpipe.
I agree to the term old-fashioned because no automakers do it that way anymore just like carburetors or bias ply tires.
I agree race only systems have different priorities, and that type covers roughly none of the viewers here. We have a race only assembly called 'Race' that is our least popular, (once you know the options).
About 20 years ago I wanted race style wide open venting for maximum power control, without sacrificing stock like closed loop PCV for fumes control and crankcase filtration the other 99% of the time the engine is running. So this that I wanted, turned out to be something many others want too, so I made that possible and we are on our fifth generation of it today.
I agree to the term old-fashioned because no automakers do it that way anymore just like carburetors or bias ply tires.
I agree race only systems have different priorities, and that type covers roughly none of the viewers here. We have a race only assembly called 'Race' that is our least popular, (once you know the options).
About 20 years ago I wanted race style wide open venting for maximum power control, without sacrificing stock like closed loop PCV for fumes control and crankcase filtration the other 99% of the time the engine is running. So this that I wanted, turned out to be something many others want too, so I made that possible and we are on our fifth generation of it today.
And we thank you for taking the time, the effort, the personal sacrifice away from the family, and taking the necessary risks to get this product from conception to full implementation. These days everyone wants something for nothing and they don't respect people's time that it takes to design what is needed. All they do is look at the final product, complain about the price tag, and reluctantly open their wallet. Then they complain when they have to do little modification on their own to get it to work. Soft mindsets.
It's analogous to the soft mentality that everyone is a winner, and that losers deserve trophies. A damn shame really.
Like most of us around here, I'm not an engineer. Therefore, I won't comment on what style (breather vs. PCV) is better. All I know is that my MMS "Mild" catch can needs to be drained about every 1,000 miles. Every time I drain it, I remember that all that fluid would have gone through my engine. Say what you want about the price, but there's no denying that the MMS can works. The install was a lot easier than I expected too. I love simple bolt-on mods.
I trust that the GM engineers designed the factory PCV system to effectively handle crankcase pressure in the stock configuration. After modifying my car, my tuner said that I should get a catch can. He also recommended the MMS can. I had seen the MMS catch can in several cars at the track (to include Dave's own Z06), so I knew it would work for me too. I don't mind paying a little more, if I know I am getting a quality product that will serve my purpose. That is why I bought a MMS catch can. Just install it as directed, and it will work for you too. (I swear Dave didn't pay me to say that )
My catch can/fast 102 install dilemma.
I'm on a fresh build. Engine on a stand.
I'm doing fitment mocking and hose routing.
LS1 block with 927 LS6 valley cover.
Still have LS1 valve covers.
Mike Norris can
Fast 102/NW 102 with a hundred ports lol
Full disclosure, even after reading through 38 pages I'm still not "up to par" on this. Clean side, dirty side, all these routings. Just... Whatever lol.
I read that certain ports have to be plugged. And some can be tied together. Which further adds to my confusion.
So here's my setup and hopefully one of you gurus will chime in. I've also included pics.
I read that the rear drivers and rear passengers can be tied together, so that's what I did. The rtv was setting up, but I know this goes to the rear pass. Mike Norris can. Didn't know about the inlet/outlet. So this is where I need help. I'm not sure where the front pass valve cover port will go to, Which port is to be plugged and which hose in the can goes to the valley port and manifold. And the drivers side of the fast. I assume this one is to be plugged.
LS1 setup Both valve covers tied together and hooked up to the intake manifold port "AKA the dirty side" Connect these lines into the top of your sealed can and then the outlet goes to the intake manifold port. The passenger front valve cover port connects to the throttle body port "AKA the clean side"
You now have a PCV "Positive crankcase ventilation" system or as I like to call it "Pollution Controlled Vehicle" albeit required by law for emissions compliance. I do have that same catch can and it worked well at catching oil before making it to the intake manifold.
The on;y difference for me was that I had an LS2 valley cover which has a PCV valve built into the cover and I just ran a line from there to the top of the can and then to the intake manifold. Connected the passenger front port to the throttle body just like stock and capped off the rear ports. I think there's a PCV valve in the stock line but I'll double check or maybe someone else could chime in on that.
01-31-2020, 07:26 AM
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