Generation III External Engine LS1 | LS6 | Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust | Ignition | Accessories
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

solid or polyurethane motor mounts

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-07-2009, 11:21 PM
  #21  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
 
ShortChevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Muskegon, MI
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I just ordered the solids yesterday, plan on a header/motor mount install at the end of the week. the vibes can't be terrible if all these people are driving around on the street with them. Sounds to me like the only downside is trans. work. From the sounds of it you can just undo the forward bolts and loosen the rears and tilt the engine back like factory.
Old 04-07-2009, 11:21 PM
  #22  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
 
ShortChevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Muskegon, MI
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Wesmanw02
Go with poly unless its an all out track car.

I have polys in mine, you get 95% of the stiffness of solids without the harsh vibrations. There really are no downsides to poly mounts, solids are overkill for a 400WHP street driven vehicle.
Overkill is my middle name...
Old 04-08-2009, 10:35 AM
  #23  
On The Tree
iTrader: (8)
 
mr.mustang214's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Poly is the way I went, haven't done much to the car but i was getting popping noises when taking off and when i put the headers on i just figured i'd throw is some poly motor mounts. They were a bitch but well worth it. Cleared up the noise
Old 04-08-2009, 11:34 AM
  #24  
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (7)
 
Siphon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by ShortChevy
I just ordered the solids yesterday, plan on a header/motor mount install at the end of the week. the vibes can't be terrible if all these people are driving around on the street with them.
To each their own. I have no problems with the vibrations. Its only at stoplights. Once I get past 800ish rpms, there are none. At stoplights, if I don't want vibrations, all I have to do it throw the car in neutral. EASY VIBRATION FIX.
Old 04-08-2009, 02:13 PM
  #25  
12 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
 
ShortChevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Muskegon, MI
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Siphon
To each their own. I have no problems with the vibrations. Its only at stoplights. Once I get past 800ish rpms, there are none. At stoplights, if I don't want vibrations, all I have to do it throw the car in neutral. EASY VIBRATION FIX.
Right on, I had my tuner bump the idle to 650 in gear becuase there was a little vibration stock. So hell I'm used to stoplight vibration.
Old 04-20-2012, 02:03 PM
  #26  
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
 
3YLSYKR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

What exactly makes it difficult to do trans work with solid motor mounts?
Old 04-20-2012, 03:06 PM
  #27  
TECH Senior Member
 
joecar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: So.Cal.
Posts: 6,077
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 10 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 3YLSYKR
What exactly makes it difficult to do trans work with solid motor mounts?
To gain access for removing the top bell-housing-to-engine bolt, you have to let the engine/trans tilt downward at the rear, which means the engine has to pivot on the motor mounts...

so with solid MM's you would have to loosen the MM's and/or the k-member.
Old 04-20-2012, 03:50 PM
  #28  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (33)
 
LS1-450's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,783
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 8 Posts

Default

One thing to keep in mind regarding solid mounts...

The mounts are also there to isolate the engine block from body loads. So, when going to solid mounts the block is subjected to forces that it would not otherwise be exposed to. Hard to anticipate how a .0005"-.001" additional block deflection, caused by solid mount related body loads, may effect engine bearings &/or internals. Not to say that the block can't handle it; just a point to note.
Old 04-21-2012, 09:41 AM
  #29  
On The Tree
iTrader: (2)
 
3YLSYKR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I've heard the stress can crack bell housings and real hard on everything.
Old 04-21-2012, 10:35 AM
  #30  
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
 
dr_whigham's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 6,708
Received 21 Likes on 17 Posts

Default

I have no issues with Spohn's to date.... other than feeling the car more.
Old 04-21-2012, 11:30 AM
  #31  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (39)
 
NVR_SPDS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,129
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts

Default

Ive got poly mounts in both our WS.6s, and they are definitely way better than the crappy tear-prone rubber mounts. There is more vibes, but I like to feel my car lope at idle. Normal driving, I dont even think about em. Would have went solid, but the polys were cheaper.
Old 04-21-2012, 11:41 AM
  #32  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (5)
 
Blu99T/A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

I have poly motor and trans mount. I have zero regrets. The motor mounts were a PITA to get in initially. As far as vibrations, not really noticeable to me, but then again I know I am not driving a Cadillac.
Old 01-02-2017, 10:21 PM
  #33  
Staging Lane
iTrader: (10)
 
SumDumKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

I felt like making a post so why not bring back one from 2012...
Just wanted to put another opinion out there about solid vs poly, as I have had both.

I originally put poly mounts in when doing my header install and I liked em. They were better than stock, there was a little more NVH, but nothing too noticeable. When I pulled the motor out this summer to do my motor work, I replaced my stock kmember with a Spohn tubular member I got from my buddy. He had a set of Spohn tubular solid mounts with the kmember and I ended up getting a good deal on them.

I was scared of getting them for the same reason everyone else is, at least from what I've read about. I thought the vibrations were going to shake my car apart and would be awful to live with.

I honestly wish I had never wasted my money getting poly mounts. I LOVE SOLID MOTOR MOUNTS. Even with a cammed motor, its really not bad. At stop lights, when the cam gets into a chopping rhythm, you can feel the shaking and the car rocks a tiny bit, but every time I feel the rocking, it just makes me smile and giggle lol. When the weather is nice, I daily the car to high school and work and I don't mind one bit. There is only one reason I don't like solid mounts...

Originally Posted by 3YLSYKR
What exactly makes it difficult to do trans work with solid motor mounts?
This question is exactly why I don't like solid mounts. When bleeding my clutch after putting the motor in, I was trying to get my socket on the bleeder screw and it slipped from my fingers and into the bellhousing it went. I managed to break all of the trans bolts loose, but to slide the input shaft out enough to grab the socket, I had to remove 6 out of the 8 motor mount bolts, loosed the last 2, remove my air intake and strut tower brace, and then use a floor jack and block of wood to tip the motor enough to get the trans out. It's not a huge deal, took me an extra 30 minutes total to do all that and put it all back, but its just a pain. This spring, I have to put a new clutch in as my stock clutch is acting more like a torque converter right now, and the only reason I don't look forward to the swap is because of the motor mounts.


Originally Posted by ShortChevy
Overkill is my middle name...
I completely agree man. I don't really see any mod as overkill if you can live with it. My car is in the process of getting an 8 pt cage and it's never even been to the track. I'm putting in a clutch rated for 1k rwhp and I don't even make 1/2 that. When people ask why, only one response.. "Why not?" lol
Old 01-02-2017, 10:35 PM
  #34  
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
 
LLLosingit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 3,837
Received 475 Likes on 354 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by SumDumKid
My car is in the process of getting an 8 pt cage and it's never even been to the track. I'm putting in a clutch rated for 1k rwhp and I don't even make 1/2 that. When people ask why, only one response.. "Why not?" lol
A cage is a good thing but I would pad anything close to your head/arms, Would hurt like hell and possibly do some serious damage if smack your head/arms on the bare steel, I saw it happen when a guy in a 4x4 literally cracked his skull after hitting rut at an angle.
I couldn't do solid mount on a DD but in my case I hate any noises/vibrations.
Old 01-02-2017, 10:41 PM
  #35  
Staging Lane
iTrader: (10)
 
SumDumKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by LLLosingit
I couldn't do solid mount on a DD but in my case I hate any noises/vibrations.
It's all about preference. I don't mind the vibration, I actually enjoy it. My car also doesn't have any fancy options like cruise control, TCS, power anything, and all the sound deadening is removed. I also drive with the radio off most of the time. I don't even have a hatch release button inside the car. I don't mind though. I love the experience and the feel of just me and the car. Modern cars are too plush and numb. There is no involvement anymore. Just me though.



Quick Reply: solid or polyurethane motor mounts



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:00 AM.