Coil swap yields 9.25 HP and 18.6 TQ
05-13-2009, 06:29 PM
#42
my coils are from a 99 silverado with the 5.3 and are square, not the round one with the silver heat sink on the back
I had a chance to get those but didn't for aesthetic purposes and the square ones looked better to me and my engine is very much out in the open for all to see and everyone wants to see it when they find out what I have
did not mean to imply I'm selling anything, I keep the extra coils for extras in case I have one fail
I had a chance to get those but didn't for aesthetic purposes and the square ones looked better to me and my engine is very much out in the open for all to see and everyone wants to see it when they find out what I have
did not mean to imply I'm selling anything, I keep the extra coils for extras in case I have one fail
05-13-2009, 08:21 PM
#43
hmm id like to see someone else do the comparison. sounds like an easy swap and easy to identify if the ones we want since they are round and have a silver thing on the bottom. i know some junkyards around with some truck engines sitting around too. anyone know waht year trucks came with these coils?
05-13-2009, 08:55 PM
#44
Here's a pic of the three coils from the Megasquirt site. LS1 on the left. The center one is the "regular" LS2 coil, on the right is the 6.0 truck coil with the heatsink. Trucks MAY have either. The brackets are different between the two types of LS2 coils (just look at their mounting holes). The wiring harnesses are the same.
The differance between the LS1 and LS2 coil plugs is more than the pin-outs. It's keyed and/or sized differently and one won't fit the other.
I agree, it'd be a good idea if somebody else did the same test during a dyno run. Gains confirmation and proof of repeatability would be great.
Here's a good place to get the coils as well as pigtails to convert LS1 harnesses-if you wanna chop & splice for about the same cost as a dealer will charge you for the harnesses.
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
The differance between the LS1 and LS2 coil plugs is more than the pin-outs. It's keyed and/or sized differently and one won't fit the other.
I agree, it'd be a good idea if somebody else did the same test during a dyno run. Gains confirmation and proof of repeatability would be great.
Here's a good place to get the coils as well as pigtails to convert LS1 harnesses-if you wanna chop & splice for about the same cost as a dealer will charge you for the harnesses.
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trk...All-Categories
05-15-2009, 11:07 AM
#47
This is kinda of a neat factory upgrade. If you can find a way to get the swap together why not? gives you chance to clean some things up anyway.
We do need some more people to test this out. Ill be on the look out to see if i can pick some up cheap.
Any more progress on what we need to do to mount them on perimeter heads?
We do need some more people to test this out. Ill be on the look out to see if i can pick some up cheap.
Any more progress on what we need to do to mount them on perimeter heads?
05-15-2009, 11:41 AM
#48
Here’s a pic of the right side bolted directly on like factory. The LS7 spark plug wires seem to be long enough, I didn’t try the stock wires to see if they would work. By what’s been posted here, they wont.
The big fat harness coming from the PCM to the rear of the engine was in the way and prevented the setup from being positioned correctly. I removed the loom loop just above the AC inlets to allow the harness to get out of the way. From there, the coil bracket bolts right up. I’ve discovered that the threaded bosses in the valve covers strip very easily so be careful!
On the left side, it’s a different story. The evap return solenoid is in the way but easily re-locateable. It’s the fuel line quick connect and hard tubing that’s really in the way. I can’t see how I’ll be able to bend it far enough to clear the number five coil. As they’re not very expensive, I’m considering an aftermarket fuel rail kit with braided lines. I can get them in blue?? My question is, what sort of fuel pressure regulator would be good? Adjustable for sure but should I be looking at the kind with a vacuum booster?
On to my low dyno numbers. I’m old school and always considered the EGR a power killer. I removed it. The car ran a bit better as it was surging with it in place. Perhaps it’s bad. The guy running the dyno said I’d show some more power with it in place and operational. ALSO, the numbers I posted are SAE. Standard is higher. I have those print-outs also. With standard ratings, the car did a best of 280 HP and 321 TQ.
The big fat harness coming from the PCM to the rear of the engine was in the way and prevented the setup from being positioned correctly. I removed the loom loop just above the AC inlets to allow the harness to get out of the way. From there, the coil bracket bolts right up. I’ve discovered that the threaded bosses in the valve covers strip very easily so be careful!
On the left side, it’s a different story. The evap return solenoid is in the way but easily re-locateable. It’s the fuel line quick connect and hard tubing that’s really in the way. I can’t see how I’ll be able to bend it far enough to clear the number five coil. As they’re not very expensive, I’m considering an aftermarket fuel rail kit with braided lines. I can get them in blue?? My question is, what sort of fuel pressure regulator would be good? Adjustable for sure but should I be looking at the kind with a vacuum booster?
On to my low dyno numbers. I’m old school and always considered the EGR a power killer. I removed it. The car ran a bit better as it was surging with it in place. Perhaps it’s bad. The guy running the dyno said I’d show some more power with it in place and operational. ALSO, the numbers I posted are SAE. Standard is higher. I have those print-outs also. With standard ratings, the car did a best of 280 HP and 321 TQ.
05-20-2009, 03:04 PM
#51
This seems like a worthwhile upgrade, im looking into doing this myself, i just ordered some ngk plugs with msd wires from blanco, and im curious if those wires will be long enough to work with these coils. If not its not a big deal ill just get longer plug wires. But im gonna keep my eye out for the coils with heat sinks.
So to do this i will definatly need the correct bracket for these coils? And will this bracket come with the correct wire harness provided i get it assembled with the coils?
So to do this i will definatly need the correct bracket for these coils? And will this bracket come with the correct wire harness provided i get it assembled with the coils?
05-20-2009, 03:18 PM
#52
From post #18:
The truck coil brackets are 10457736, 2 needed.
The LS2 wiring harnesses are 12601824, 2 needed.
The coils are 10457730 (AC D585), 8 needed.
Nothing will be packaged together. These are all separete parts from GM. None of this come pre-assembled. Ebay looks to be the best to get the coils from cost-wise.
You will have some fitment issues with the stock LS1 gear such as fuel lines and A.I.R. stuffs. It's all in the thread^
The truck coil brackets are 10457736, 2 needed.
The LS2 wiring harnesses are 12601824, 2 needed.
The coils are 10457730 (AC D585), 8 needed.
Nothing will be packaged together. These are all separete parts from GM. None of this come pre-assembled. Ebay looks to be the best to get the coils from cost-wise.
You will have some fitment issues with the stock LS1 gear such as fuel lines and A.I.R. stuffs. It's all in the thread^
05-21-2009, 10:17 PM
#53
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I need a set of new center bolt valve covers but will my stock 98 coils fit center bolt valve covers? I know the 98 covers are different. If my 98 coils dont fit this looks like a good upgrade.
05-21-2009, 11:45 PM
#55
I'm not sure if 98 heads will accept center bolt valve covers. You'll need center bolt valve covers to attach the correct truck coil brackets. I suppose you could pull a valve cover and see if the bolt bosses for center bolt covers are there and threaded.
