Coil swap yields 9.25 HP and 18.6 TQ
05-26-2009, 11:01 PM
#61
The truck coils with the heatsink is the only one that showed more energy output in the video link in the Megasquirt site.
Guys, if you wanna do this, the coils, brackets and wiring harnesses I've listed is what's needed. Compared to LS1, the coils and harnesses are different as are the brackets. The stock LS1 coils (or any other coil, for that matter) cannot be "upgraded" to the same electricial capabilities or power output as the truck coils with the heat sinks.
You gotta get the exact parts, there's no way around it.
Guys, if you wanna do this, the coils, brackets and wiring harnesses I've listed is what's needed. Compared to LS1, the coils and harnesses are different as are the brackets. The stock LS1 coils (or any other coil, for that matter) cannot be "upgraded" to the same electricial capabilities or power output as the truck coils with the heat sinks.
You gotta get the exact parts, there's no way around it.
05-27-2009, 07:20 AM
#63
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Any thoughts on using the MSD coils vs stock ls1's with 52000 on them ?? I should mention that the msd's would be replacing the stock ls1's that were re used on my forged 402 that is about to get a head, header, and cam swap at Vengeance. If the price is right I might want to do a little testing after everything is done. Post h/c/exhaust swap and after final numbers, swap coils and see if a h/c full bolton 402 gains anything from doing a coil swap ? Any thoughts or guesses ?
05-27-2009, 05:31 PM
#64
I did a lot of researching about LS style coils. I’ve read on LS1tech that the MSD coils offer no performance improvement and go bad often. The stock LS1 coils are just as good performance wise and are more reliable.
Nobodies’ ever proven that any coil has an advantage except for the coils this thread is about. Proven by Megasquirt and my own testing.
Nobodies’ ever proven that any coil has an advantage except for the coils this thread is about. Proven by Megasquirt and my own testing.
06-06-2009, 09:09 PM
#72
OK guys, I finally had the chance to fool with the left side coil packs and moving everything in the way.
First, I snipped through the spot welded tab on the fuel line just after the quick-disconnect. This allowed me to carefully bend the tube upwards. I did this a little at a time until it cleared the number five coil. I put a 2 X 3 block between the intake and the tube and used a large bent prybar pushing the tube upwards. The snipped tab doesn’t look too neat but to get at it to make it nice, you’d need to remove the fuel rail from the car. You ain’t gonna see it unless you really look for it.
Next, I removed the heat shield wrap from the fuel and evap hose. I also removed the hard line from the solenoid and the brass nipple on the front of the intake manifold. I put a short rubber fuel hose between the solenoid and this nipple. Then I trimmed the evap hose going to the chassis hardline just enough until it looked right. These lines are hard nylon tubes in a soft rubber hose sheathing. I used a short bit of hose with a tie-wrap looped through it and around the coil pack bracket to prevent it from wobbling around. I had to extend the wires for the solenoid plug, my good-n-hot iron saw to it.
This work took about a half an hour. The coil bracket now mounts up with no problems.
Guys, I just got a Panasonic Lumix 12 MP camera (blue, of course). Stunning photos, even very close up, even takes great shots in semi-dark. Get one guys, it freekin rocks.
Here’s some pics. The first shot is before I put on the anti-wobble hose. Last shot: I couldn’t resist! This jackass parks across from my house. Yankees fanatics do the stoopidist things! What a waste of blue electrical tape!
See me at Jones Beach OBI in the AM!
First, I snipped through the spot welded tab on the fuel line just after the quick-disconnect. This allowed me to carefully bend the tube upwards. I did this a little at a time until it cleared the number five coil. I put a 2 X 3 block between the intake and the tube and used a large bent prybar pushing the tube upwards. The snipped tab doesn’t look too neat but to get at it to make it nice, you’d need to remove the fuel rail from the car. You ain’t gonna see it unless you really look for it.
Next, I removed the heat shield wrap from the fuel and evap hose. I also removed the hard line from the solenoid and the brass nipple on the front of the intake manifold. I put a short rubber fuel hose between the solenoid and this nipple. Then I trimmed the evap hose going to the chassis hardline just enough until it looked right. These lines are hard nylon tubes in a soft rubber hose sheathing. I used a short bit of hose with a tie-wrap looped through it and around the coil pack bracket to prevent it from wobbling around. I had to extend the wires for the solenoid plug, my good-n-hot iron saw to it.
This work took about a half an hour. The coil bracket now mounts up with no problems.
Guys, I just got a Panasonic Lumix 12 MP camera (blue, of course). Stunning photos, even very close up, even takes great shots in semi-dark. Get one guys, it freekin rocks.
Here’s some pics. The first shot is before I put on the anti-wobble hose. Last shot: I couldn’t resist! This jackass parks across from my house. Yankees fanatics do the stoopidist things! What a waste of blue electrical tape!
See me at Jones Beach OBI in the AM!
Last edited by Paul Bell; 06-06-2009 at 09:31 PM.
06-29-2009, 09:08 PM
#73
I just found this set of complete coils, brackets and harnesses for $130 "buy it now".
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=170350967770
Obviously, I bought it. We'll see what happens. Anyone have a link to the right size plug wires?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=170350967770
Obviously, I bought it. We'll see what happens. Anyone have a link to the right size plug wires?
06-30-2009, 10:20 AM
#75
I got lucky, and had setup a search on Ebay to send me email alerts. As soon as I got the email for these, I clicked buy it now. $140 to my door seemed like a damn good deal.
06-30-2009, 10:28 AM
#76
The ones I just bought off Ebay are litterally ready to bolt to the valve cover and plug in.
I got lucky, and had setup a search on Ebay to send me email alerts. As soon as I got the email for these, I clicked buy it now. $140 to my door seemed like a damn good deal.
I got lucky, and had setup a search on Ebay to send me email alerts. As soon as I got the email for these, I clicked buy it now. $140 to my door seemed like a damn good deal.
So the bolts came with the coil itself?
In looking up the D585 coil part number listed in this thread: 10457730
gmpartsdir also notes there is another part number of: 19005218
I assune the the 10457730 is the one we want for this upgrade?
And that is the round version?
06-30-2009, 10:31 AM
#77
Back on the main topic, thanks for the write up and discussion. I may try this on my Procharged car. :think:
06-30-2009, 01:11 PM
#78
Interesting, TWS. My parts people are pretty good and have located discontinued parts for me as well as obscure numbers. They just found me the very last R/S T-Top shade in grey. Post up the GM part number for it so I can break their shoes, LOL.
Regardless, I have this can of paint that was mixed for me.
Today’s project, 1-2 and 3-4 shift solenoids. Maybe THEN I’ll have first & forth gears again...
Regardless, I have this can of paint that was mixed for me.
Today’s project, 1-2 and 3-4 shift solenoids. Maybe THEN I’ll have first & forth gears again...
06-30-2009, 10:00 PM
#79
My "How To Build LS1/LS6 Engines" or whatever it's called even stated that "hot rodders" prefer the GM truck coils too. Nice write up. This is interesting because I have 130k on my car, and have no idea if they were ever changed. I just replaced the plugs and wires.
07-01-2009, 07:55 AM
#80
Hey Paul, my ADHD is so bad I'll never remember to do that when I get home at night. 
However, all I did was grab the paint code off the door sticker (below your RPO codes) and walk to the parts counter. They were able to get it within a week.
This was a few years ago, circa 2005, so maybe now they have discontinued it?? I hope not.
However, all I did was grab the paint code off the door sticker (below your RPO codes) and walk to the parts counter. They were able to get it within a week.This was a few years ago, circa 2005, so maybe now they have discontinued it?? I hope not.