New motor wont start!!
#21
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Did you preload the rockers correctly? If so, how was it done?
If the preload is correct for that cylinder, and it still doesnt open, then something has happened internally. If a rocker won't move it's either lifter, rod, cam.
Sounds like you will need to pull the engine and/or drop the sump to see whats happening inside
If the preload is correct for that cylinder, and it still doesnt open, then something has happened internally. If a rocker won't move it's either lifter, rod, cam.
Sounds like you will need to pull the engine and/or drop the sump to see whats happening inside
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Ok, so now I have a few questions:
1. Are you using some kind of custom length pushrod? Generally, the Trickflow heads require a longer than stock pushrod.
2. Are the lifters new and if so, did you soak them in oil for a few hours before putting them in?
3. Did you remember to put the rocker rail (the rail that the rockers sit on) back in before installing the rockers?
If you are using stock rocker arms, they should be torqued to 22 lb-ft. This will achieve proper preload assuming you are using the correct length pushrod.
1. Are you using some kind of custom length pushrod? Generally, the Trickflow heads require a longer than stock pushrod.
2. Are the lifters new and if so, did you soak them in oil for a few hours before putting them in?
3. Did you remember to put the rocker rail (the rail that the rockers sit on) back in before installing the rockers?
If you are using stock rocker arms, they should be torqued to 22 lb-ft. This will achieve proper preload assuming you are using the correct length pushrod.
Last edited by PAGregSS; 07-31-2009 at 09:29 AM.
#24
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Yes Im using a custom length pushrod which I used a checker to measure it with. The lifters are new Morel link bar lifters and i did not soak them in oil but i did coat the complete outside with oil before i put them in. I have yella terra 1.7 rockers and i did not use the rocker rail. I dont think you have to when using these rockers. I did not torque the rockers because I had to use an allen wrench to tighten the bolts and didnt have any way to tq them. I just made them tight but not overly tight. all the other valves seem to be working fine.
Last edited by gmmusclecarman; 07-31-2009 at 09:43 AM.
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If you did not soak the lifters, it will take awhile for the oil to get into them before they will have enough pressure to pump up. Until the lifters pump up, the valves won't open. I'm also guessing that you checked pushrod length with the dry lifters?
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yes I did. So somehow that exhaust valve assembly decided it wanted to work and now the valve is opening and close just fine. when the pushrod is sitting on the lifter is it normal for the lifter to compress a little bit if you push on it? does that mean it has pressure? I dumped some oil down the pushrod hole to the lifter and a little while after that is when it decided to work. could all of this simply be that the lifters have not been fully pressurized or lubricated causing some valves to not open and make some noises? Currently, all the valves are opening and closing. should i just keep running it until they are all completely presseurized. my oil pressure is very good as in 40-60 psi
#27
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well i fixed the problem! car is running great now! no more odd noises, idles good and best of all, it drives Great! I cant believe how fast this car is! barely even have to touch the gas and it hauls. It is not perfect though, speedometer stopped working and its starts to overheat after awhile. Im pretty sure my old t-stat is shot. 160 t-stat is on the way!
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More than likely the overheating issue isn't your thermostat, it's that you have an air pocket in the cooling system.
If this is a new engine, you don't really want to go flogging on it until you get some break in miles on it and make sure everything is working correctly.
If this is a new engine, you don't really want to go flogging on it until you get some break in miles on it and make sure everything is working correctly.