pcv question
09-28-2009, 01:21 PM
#42
You would still be far better off to trap the oil by putting a oil seperating can in-line between the intake nipple & the drivers valve cover or there will be some mist/vapor still getting into the intake manifold.
Last edited by TLewis4095; 09-29-2009 at 11:13 AM.
09-29-2009, 12:46 PM
#43
I tried a couple things. I completely capped off my intake ports and JUST ran breathers/filters. I did it for 4 weeks straight down here in South Florida and I did not "visually" have a single drop of water, rust or anything else happen out of the norm.
BUT.....I know there's some crap/toxic stuff/whatever....building up in there and I just had to put some kind of crankcase evac back on.
Its just the proper thing to do.......
The way I have it now, pictured above, including the valley cover port being capped off......I think is perfect "for my engine." I know I have blow-by, and probably alot. I have over 124K miles and its a long stroke (4.125) and my cylinders are definitely out of round and my rings are definitely beat up.
But....my ridculous oil consumption has stopped. I still burn oil though.
To answer your question: My passenger valve cover only has the PCV vacuum line, no breather anywhere on it. The ONLY breather/filter I have where fresh air can enter my crankcase is on the drivers side valve cover. I think thats best so the fresh air must travel all the way through and across the entire crankcase to get sucked out. If you put a breather too close to the vacuum point, I think it'll be like electricity...path of least resistance...and it will suck the fresh air mostly from that close-by breather and not much will enter on the drivers side valve cover.
I started a thead in the "General Maintenance and Repair" section on those filters and little rubber hoses needed to set up those breather/filters, shows part numbers too. You need one, its like $4.00 worth of parts.
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09-29-2009, 12:50 PM
#44
I can put a ciggarette up to that breather and it sucks the smoke in real good while idling. I tightened the clamps on my PCV line to get the suction I wanted. Wide open like a stock line was CRAZY strong, way too much.
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09-29-2009, 12:56 PM
#45
Just make the drivers side valve cover the suction point with the PCV line to the intake and put a breather on the passenger valve cover port.
Wonder if less oil will enter the line that way.
I still have to find a small electric vacuum pump so we can all just cap off our intakes for good. But one that will last a few years in a hot engine bay. I found a small ciggarrette-pack sized fish tank air pump that actually puts out plenty of air to push fresh air into a port...but I have to wire it to work off the battery.
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09-29-2009, 01:49 PM
#46
You are probably just fine as long as you have a proper flow PCV valve on the side you pull from. And if you add a oil seperating can on the dirty side you will eliminate most, if not all of the rest you are ingesting.
The key is to have the clean air flow through the crankcase, and it sounds like thats what you have.
The key is to have the clean air flow through the crankcase, and it sounds like thats what you have.
I'm still wondering if it would be better to swap my set-up.
Just make the drivers side valve cover the suction point with the PCV line to the intake and put a breather on the passenger valve cover port.
Wonder if less oil will enter the line that way.
I still have to find a small electric vacuum pump so we can all just cap off our intakes for good. But one that will last a few years in a hot engine bay. I found a small ciggarrette-pack sized fish tank air pump that actually puts out plenty of air to push fresh air into a port...but I have to wire it to work off the battery.
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Just make the drivers side valve cover the suction point with the PCV line to the intake and put a breather on the passenger valve cover port.
Wonder if less oil will enter the line that way.
I still have to find a small electric vacuum pump so we can all just cap off our intakes for good. But one that will last a few years in a hot engine bay. I found a small ciggarrette-pack sized fish tank air pump that actually puts out plenty of air to push fresh air into a port...but I have to wire it to work off the battery.
.
09-29-2009, 01:53 PM
#47
You are probably just fine as long as you have a proper flow PCV valve on the side you pull from. And if you add a oil seperating can on the dirty side you will eliminate most, if not all of the rest you are ingesting.
The key is to have the clean air flow through the crankcase, and it sounds like thats what you have.
The key is to have the clean air flow through the crankcase, and it sounds like thats what you have.
Yeah...I'm doing my new engine soon so I won't go for the catch can. On my new engine I want to definitely set up some kind of external air pump or vacuum pump source.
I want to keep the new engine 100% free of any oil mist.
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09-29-2009, 01:57 PM
#48
I wonder if a metal line pointing downstream inside one of the collectors would have enough draw on it from the passing exhaust...to create enough vacuum to pull air out of a crankcase???
It would be very easy and almost free to drill a 1/4" hole into the exhaust pipe, bend a 1/4" metal line 90*, put it in there and weld it place so its pointing downstream. Run that metal line just a couple feet for heat reasons...then a rubber line from there to the valve cover to pull on the crankcase air. You could even put a PCV valve in line if you wanted too.....or a catch can.
Just wonder how you could find out if it will draw enough suction on that line while running.
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It would be very easy and almost free to drill a 1/4" hole into the exhaust pipe, bend a 1/4" metal line 90*, put it in there and weld it place so its pointing downstream. Run that metal line just a couple feet for heat reasons...then a rubber line from there to the valve cover to pull on the crankcase air. You could even put a PCV valve in line if you wanted too.....or a catch can.
Just wonder how you could find out if it will draw enough suction on that line while running.
.
09-29-2009, 05:29 PM
#49
I wonder if a metal line pointing downstream inside one of the collectors would have enough draw on it from the passing exhaust...to create enough vacuum to pull air out of a crankcase???
It would be very easy and almost free to drill a 1/4" hole into the exhaust pipe, bend a 1/4" metal line 90*, put it in there and weld it place so its pointing downstream. Run that metal line just a couple feet for heat reasons...then a rubber line from there to the valve cover to pull on the crankcase air. You could even put a PCV valve in line if you wanted too.....or a catch can.
Just wonder how you could find out if it will draw enough suction on that line while running.
.
It would be very easy and almost free to drill a 1/4" hole into the exhaust pipe, bend a 1/4" metal line 90*, put it in there and weld it place so its pointing downstream. Run that metal line just a couple feet for heat reasons...then a rubber line from there to the valve cover to pull on the crankcase air. You could even put a PCV valve in line if you wanted too.....or a catch can.
Just wonder how you could find out if it will draw enough suction on that line while running.
.
To do that so you don't have reverse pressure you will need this kit or similar: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-25900/
3/4" is about the minimum to get enough vacuum from the venturi effect, and then you need the one-way check valves that are exhaust rated or you will pressurize your crankcase. These will only draw at higher RPM's also, so not ideal for anything but a track car.
