TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

I could care less about the EPA, My concern is longevity of the engine. I'm quoting fact with the references to back it up....your posting your opinon based on a limited experiance.

I doubt you went to the links and read the material or you would not still be preaching something so wrong. The logic you are using is from the 60's.

All I ask is just do your thing and run your motor how you choose and for those that want the best for their cars to read & get an education on this.

Taking the time to read & research, not just assume.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

You might be right... but there's still an if there.

No connection to the intake= 100% surefire that there's no oil getting in there.

Car's in the 9's as well, and it's getting it's fair share of nitrous and abuse... believe me, it gets beat, has from day one. Maybe not alot of run time, but alot of heating and cooling, I may not have alot of miles on it persay (well if you could figure out the burnout too, there's probably more then you think LOL) but the heat cycles it sees is probably as much or more then a street car. This thing gets hot and a good 1/2 cooled off every track trip a good 10 times if you include loading and unloading.


The crankcase volatiles, I'm still sticking with changing the oil while it's at temp is going to catch so much more of them, that you won't have a problem. Try it sometime, drain a sample out of your car while it's cold and send that for analysis, then start the car and let it warm up, and take another analysis, send them both out. When you see the difference, you'll understand how much is in the oil when it's warm vs cold, and that changing the oil while it's hot is by FAR removing a TON more stuff from the motor.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I think there are benefits of both honestly. Running the catch can on a daily driven street car that sees a lot of miles will do its job as far as catching the oil mist from re-entering the intake. As long as its a well internally designed can of coarse & not a empty container. And the changing of the oil every 3k along with changing it while its still hot help clean out contaminates in the oil itself that could be detremental to the engine.

I think this is starting to turn into a different kind of discussion. One side trapping oil mist from entering the engine via intake & the other dealing with contaminates in the oil itself.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

Your correct Mike. The proper catch cans remove the comtaminates as they are introduced BEFORE they can harm the engine, the oil change is critical as well and always change oil when hot for the reason JL states, but it is far better to trap & remove the harmful contaminates as they are introduced, not 3,000 miles later when they have already been doing the damage the studies show.

And I have no doubt your motor is running fine the way you do it JL, but the whole principal behind this is to get as much life as possible from the motor, not just get along.

P.S., we run 6.90's to 7.20's in the 1/4.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

woopity doo

colews6

iTrader: (1)

does anyone have pics of there setup. i want to take care of this issue too. but i don't want to buy a catch can because theres got to be a easier way. does anyone just have the line hanging down with a hose extension, that seems to work

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

If you knew anything about piston ring sealing and the effect that crankcase vacuum has in facilitating it, you'd steer clear of atmospheric-pressure vents.

A proven way to avoid oil in the intake, while creating good crankcase vacuum, is to plumb the vents into the exhaust in a Venturi setup.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

For many people, that observation would tell them the design is outdated.

Compare how much power the old engines produced per unit volume fuel burned, versus today's LSx engines, and tell us how great old school tech is.

And don't get me started on the crank seal technology back then.

By your logic we should all be running '56 smallblocks with carburetors and 23deg heads.

3fingas

iTrader: (16)

Anyone who has invested decent coin in a build should consider none other then running a mech pump. Header evac are ok if you dont have cats. Plus at wot vacuum decreases so using a can with 3/8 hose is weak. JMHO.

TLewis4095

iTrader: (10)

The problem with lines hanging down as any engine builder will tell you that has torn down a LS motor with this is at speed one line will always have more suction due to the venturi effect (to demonstrate take a piece of hose and swing it around your head...it wil create a vacuum and start to whistle from it. The same happens with lines hanging down except on the ones I see that an idiot tuner does has one on each valve cover & thus the unequal amount pulled results in one pulling in the dirt) than the other so the line w/the least flow past it will begin to suck up dirt/dust/water/sand, etc. from the road and pull it directly into the engine. A sure way to ruin your motor in short order. All you need to do is remove both valve covers & you will see all that grit and dirt inside the one that ended up haveing the least amount of pull. Simple to see the results of this which again, is antiquated from the 50's technology.

And JL, if you run in the 9's with a street driven LS car that is impressive, not many do.

3fingas is correct. On any wild big cube build a mechanical vac pump is the iultimate, as long as you have a properly set relief valve in the opposite valve cover than you pull from. You don't want to pull more than 13-14 inches of vac or the oil starts to pull off the wrist pins and galling results, but most LS engines have a higher tension ring so it does not do as good of a job sealing them.

01redssa4, care to clarify? Not sure what your adding to this disscusion.....

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Now that Tlewis is banned for back foor selling his products after leaving as a sponsor, I will say it one more time:

Vent the crankcase, and you will have NO OIL IN THE INTAKE GUMMING AND CLOGGING UP THE HEADS, PORTS AND BUILDING UP ON TEH PISTONS.

Does every single possible crankcase contaminent get pulled out? No, but I doubt the PCV does that eiter, and CHANGING YOUR OIL WHILE IT IS HOT WILL PULL 99.99% OF ALL THE STUFF OUT OF THE ENGINE PERIOD.

Yester-year's engine might not have had the performance that today's do, but the tooling, materials, design, oils, and fuel are the main reasons for that, NOT THE LACK OF A PCV.


I do know a good bit about cylinder sealing.. and I'll stand by using a breather in place of a pcv all day, the problems caused by oil in the intake tract is a bigger issue in the long run.

But I'm also putting a vaccum pump on my car, as I realize that is the best possible solution. The vaccum pump surly won't be venting into the intake though, that's for sure, as that would essentially make it a PCV

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

WOW, wish the mods were always so determined & quick about banning worthless members instead of educated ones. I'm hoping you found something better than just not liking this guy to ban him & attempt to prove your point.

I'm done with this thread now. Why dont you go into sponsor threads about catch cans & tell them how dumb you think their products are compared to running breathers. Thats all you basically did here.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Mike he's been back door selling for a good while, if you check his posts it will become very obvious... that is why he was banned. I've noticed it for a while... and when he started this thread about catch cans being so great, I had to do something. It was a really blatent move on his part.

You guys that want to run catch cans go for it, doesn't matter to me I don't care, I don't sell breathers so I have nothing to gain or lose, it's 100% irrevelant. I'm just making the facts that I have 100% proof to back up known and you can do what you want with them.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Here are some pics from a 2010 Camaro with 900 miles on it.

For those of you who do not want to vent and dump your emissions into you engine bay I offer the RevXtreme catch can with a built in PCV.

http://estore.websitepros.com/2120533/Detail.bok?no=91

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

^^^Is that oil puddled up in the intake?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

They should have routed it through a small electric vaccum pump, then into the exhaust pipes on both sides so it gets burned right before the cats.

Oil going into the intake is a moronic design by any manufacturer. It causes engine problems later on, shortens engine life and causes more fuel burn and more oil burn.
All things a manufacturer and an oil company LOVES........more repairs and parts purchased, more new cars sold, more oil and gas sold.

.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Which pump are you gonna use? I know China has some good quality vaccum pumps that are small like cigarette packs.

.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Yes is it. 2010 Camaro with 900 miles on it.

The catch can eliminates that.

There are other ways to do it ( illegal be it for a street car ?) but there are other ways. We offer a vented oil cap if thats all you want to. I personally am not going to dump that crap into my engine bay and I'm sure the 2010 Camaro owner doesn't want it in his.

Getting extravagant with an electric pump just to avoid a simple catch can?
How much money to buy the pump and wire it with a relay? Account for your time to tap a wire under the hood to trigger the relay when you turn the car on.

A catch can is simpler and easier to install

I'm not here to argue one way or the other, catch cans are widely accepted as a cure for the issue in more than just GM cars. They are not gimmicks and with the built in PCV and contours the RevXtreme is one of the better ones.

71novaguy

iTrader: (2)

how do we know the car didnt have another issue?

71novaguy

iTrader: (2)

on another note, why all the whining when there are millions of cars running well over 100k with the factory set ups?