Wix air filter vs Fram vs dirty K&N flow results inside
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Wix air filter vs Fram vs dirty K&N flow results inside
Just a little info on air filters if any cares lol. I had a K&N and it didn't seal very well so I tried some paper filters and they all seem to seal the lid better. I was bored today and counted the pleats in the old paper filters and the new Wix I just bought. The Wix has 140 pleats as where all the other paper filters have 110. Throttle response fills much better than with the K&N or Fram. I'm not sure if it's the tigher seal or what but I'm doing away with the K&N for good. Looks like the Wix with 30 more pleats will be the best for protection and they all flow about the same. Plus it was 8.49 at Oreiley's instead of 14.99 for the Fram.
Last edited by edzsilverss; 01-29-2010 at 05:55 PM.
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Ok I must be REALLY bored today. I took my dirty K&N, a clean Fram and a BRAND new wix filter and tested flow. I had my daughter hold up her pom poms from cheerleading and I took a hair dryer on high and blew it through the bottom of each to see which one flowed better. Very high tech test I know. With the Fram the pom poms moved a little bit. With the brand new wix they almost didn't move at all. With the dirty *** K&N, the were blowing all over the place. The K&N flowed 10 times better that the two paper filters. It has to make more hp with actual airflow with the car moving. Now I Don't know what to do. Clean and reinstall the K&N or use the Wix that seems to block everything including air flow.
Last edited by edzsilverss; 01-29-2010 at 05:13 PM.
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The thinkg I don't get is all the test are usually on a dyno. The damn car is not moving so there is not going to much difference at all in the air flow going through the filter. I'm sure every car is making more power while being driven that it does on the dyno due to the air increase. Not a ton more but a little more for sure. I may keep the K&N and do the lid seal mod. If you don't over oil it it won't jack up your maf.
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Youre giving up something with any of them. If you go with K&N you get the better flow but more particles get into the engine. The others you get less flow but less particles in the engine. So it all depends on your needs. I just stopped using K&N and am using a Fram now and I think I can live with any power loss it may/maynot have since I have a DD.
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That's correct, K&N does it's "thing" by filtering less. This equals more airflow. This has been discussed a few times in a few places.
K&N AIR FILTERS = LESS FILTERING.
I keep a standard paper air filter on my car and when it looks dirty, it's replaced. With some things, the standard stuff is just fine, if not better than the high end, high dollar stuff.
That's correct, K&N does it's "thing" by filtering less. This equals more airflow. This has been discussed a few times in a few places.
K&N AIR FILTERS = LESS FILTERING.
I keep a standard paper air filter on my car and when it looks dirty, it's replaced. With some things, the standard stuff is just fine, if not better than the high end, high dollar stuff.
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so what you guys are saying is k&n is lying or misleading in there ad's. isnt that illegal in some way. i dont have the box mine came in anymore, so i cant quote on there claim exactly, but i think they claim higher flow with there woven material and catch the particles with a sticky oil. at least when i re oil mine it feels sticky. i have been using k&n filters for over 20yrs no problems with my carbs or injection.
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the k&n flows better no doubt. But is it worth the extra wear on your engine. The best thing to do is run paper filler for daily driving and no filter for the track I guess Maybe a un-oiled K&N for the track. I'm just going to keep me K&N and keep it oiled up and as dry as possible.
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The thinkg I don't get is all the test are usually on a dyno. The damn car is not moving so there is not going to much difference at all in the air flow going through the filter. I'm sure every car is making more power while being driven that it does on the dyno due to the air increase. Not a ton more but a little more for sure. I may keep the K&N and do the lid seal mod. If you don't over oil it it won't jack up your maf.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...-n-filter.html
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First of all, as you know your exeriment has no scinetific merit. But I think this thread came to the correct conclusion.
For full performance, run without an air filter.
Run an oil bath filter if you want to mess up your MAF.
Paper filters wlil actually remove the airborne grit before it enters your engine.
For full performance, run without an air filter.
Run an oil bath filter if you want to mess up your MAF.
Paper filters wlil actually remove the airborne grit before it enters your engine.
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i use a holley power shot. in fact it was my first mod. felt a noticable dif in throttle response. but no idea how it stacks up against a paper as far as filtration.
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If you are running one air filter and then switch to another and you can "feel" a difference either one is dirty as hell and the other is new, or if they are both new, its all in your head.
On a side note my brother and I were racing each other and were nose to nose at the end of the quarter everytime. He decided to completely remove his air filter. We raced a few more times and were still nose to nose. It did nothing.
On a side note my brother and I were racing each other and were nose to nose at the end of the quarter everytime. He decided to completely remove his air filter. We raced a few more times and were still nose to nose. It did nothing.
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 01-30-2010 at 05:18 PM.
#16
i would think that more pleats smashed together would be more of a obstacle.
think of it this way... 14 pleats>llllllllllllll
ll ll ll ll ll<10 pleats
the more pleats, the denser the filter will be. denser=less flow
the same goes for the k&n
ll ll ll ll ll <10
l ll ll l<6
i think that the fram would be the best bet
my.02
think of it this way... 14 pleats>llllllllllllll
ll ll ll ll ll<10 pleats
the more pleats, the denser the filter will be. denser=less flow
the same goes for the k&n
ll ll ll ll ll <10
l ll ll l<6
i think that the fram would be the best bet
my.02
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aFe. Best of both worlds. After comparing k&n, aFe, fram, AC delco. Afe is my recommendation. Even compared them on a flow bench that my college uses for cylinder heads. I wish i could find the paper i wrote my notes on...
K&N = hard to beat the flow of one but filtration is a HUGE problem, oil is not good for mafs.
Afe dry = was very comparable to the k&n flow and doesn't have filtration problems
K&N = hard to beat the flow of one but filtration is a HUGE problem, oil is not good for mafs.
Afe dry = was very comparable to the k&n flow and doesn't have filtration problems
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Just a little info on air filters if any cares lol. I had a K&N and it didn't seal very well so I tried some paper filters and they all seem to seal the lid better. I was bored today and counted the pleats in the old paper filters and the new Wix I just bought. The Wix has 140 pleats as where all the other paper filters have 110. Throttle response fills much better than with the K&N or Fram. I'm not sure if it's the tigher seal or what but I'm doing away with the K&N for good. Looks like the Wix with 30 more pleats will be the best for protection and they all flow about the same. Plus it was 8.49 at Oreiley's instead of 14.99 for the Fram.
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what kind of lid do you have and where is it leaking from??... i have an slp and it came with a foam tape strip that goes on the back edge of the lid (side facing the maf) to help it seal... i also have a k&n filter and i haven't had any problems with it leaking since i've had it... maybe you should try putting some of that foam tape in there if you don't already have it