LS Swap From The Top !
10-21-2010, 01:34 AM
#24
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It's Alive! Had it running a few times now, it started on the second try, and the only code was for the intake temp sensor that I have unplugged.
RUNS GOOD!!! No Leaks and Great Oil pressure.
Got to get some exhaust work and a tune but this job is pretty much done.
Lessons learnend
Check your hardware, especially critical bolts like the harmonic bal bolt.
Double check the torque specs.
Use a good assembly lube.
Read all instructions 2x before doing the job.
Go Slow.
I've done 4 engine swaps in my life and this was by far the smoothest but my last as the single point man. (472 pull from a 1970 Coupe DeVille was the hardest)
Next Car will be a AMG C63-
RUNS GOOD!!! No Leaks and Great Oil pressure.
Got to get some exhaust work and a tune but this job is pretty much done.
Lessons learnend
Check your hardware, especially critical bolts like the harmonic bal bolt.
Double check the torque specs.
Use a good assembly lube.
Read all instructions 2x before doing the job.
Go Slow.
I've done 4 engine swaps in my life and this was by far the smoothest but my last as the single point man. (472 pull from a 1970 Coupe DeVille was the hardest)
Next Car will be a AMG C63-
10-26-2010, 02:58 PM
#27
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I just completed the same swap. I swapped an ls6 crate motor with 228 comp cam, new springs and pushrods. I have pacesetter long tube headers and a SLP catback. It started right up on the first crank. I have a few issues. The headers and exhaust only have space for 2 oxygen sensors not three. what do i do with the third? How do i trick the computer that is looking for the egr valve? I read somewhere about a resistor you can install in the harness. Thirdly, i need to tune the engine. I have a hypertech but I am not sure what to do.
Did you install a larger MAF?
Thanks
Did you install a larger MAF?
Thanks
10-26-2010, 04:18 PM
#29
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Was gonna say.. Looks like MIL Housing.. 
Helped my buddy with some of his Maveric work in one of those garages.. 
Good times.. and yeah it gets cluttered QUICK!!
Is the thing with the metal intakes being a heat sink a myth??
Helped my buddy with some of his Maveric work in one of those garages.. Good times.. and yeah it gets cluttered QUICK!! Is the thing with the metal intakes being a heat sink a myth??
11-08-2010, 02:00 AM
#32
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I just completed the same swap. I swapped an ls6 crate motor with 228 comp cam, new springs and pushrods. I have pacesetter long tube headers and a SLP catback. It started right up on the first crank. I have a few issues. The headers and exhaust only have space for 2 oxygen sensors not three. what do i do with the third? How do i trick the computer that is looking for the egr valve? I read somewhere about a resistor you can install in the harness. Thirdly, i need to tune the engine. I have a hypertech but I am not sure what to do.
Did you install a larger MAF? -- Thanks
Did you install a larger MAF? -- Thanks
1-You'll have to drill and bung your header or use an O2 sim.
2-The only way I know to delete the egr is to have the egr tuned out.
3-You'll need a real dyno, tune the Hypertech just won't do. I was able to barter for 3 hours of dyno time (The shop I used charges $200 per hour, plus $200 for the tuner who is the local Diablo rep, and installed my custom tune in my Diablo) my old block, crank and heads. If you don't get a real dyno tune you could do some real damage to that new motor. See my quote below.
Last edited by Anthony Williams; 10-11-2011 at 11:58 PM.
11-09-2010, 08:59 PM
#35
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Well I buuggerd up my crank and 2 ARP bolts following th GM balancer pulley install instructions.
Attachment 251488
ended up rethreading to 3/8-16 and useing the all thread method of pushing the HB pulley on.
The funny thing is the ARP bolts seemed to have different threads piches and counts from one another eventhough they were both supposed to be for LS1-6 engines??
I just used a grade 8 allen torqued to 175 with red loctite. and opened up the ARP washer to 3/8 on my shops lathe.
Attachment 251488
ended up rethreading to 3/8-16 and useing the all thread method of pushing the HB pulley on.
The funny thing is the ARP bolts seemed to have different threads piches and counts from one another eventhough they were both supposed to be for LS1-6 engines??
I just used a grade 8 allen torqued to 175 with red loctite. and opened up the ARP washer to 3/8 on my shops lathe.
Which instructions were you following...?
11-11-2010, 04:01 PM
#36
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And as I said the GM service manual at first try then the all thread method.
11-11-2010, 04:13 PM
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With out going into too much detail it did pass smog very easily (the sniffer) and is registerd. The visual was done by Mr. Magoo without his glasses. 
11-16-2010, 07:09 PM
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Nice write up! I'm planning on a swap pretty soon on my 00 SS. This helps out a lot! When i replaced my oil pump a while back i hammered in the HB until the threads caught for the new GM bolt. It never backed out but a lot of people said not to hammer in the Balancer, instead to get a longer bolt to get it started. I have no idea where to find a bolt like that.... Any ideas on that? And if you did it again would you install the HB before you lowered the engine into the car? I would assume that putting the balancer on outside the car would be easier. I know when i put mine on when the engine was in the car it was a PITA. And on top of that i am not strong at all so trying to torque it down with that little room was hard. Well thanks again.
