Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Is there a way to replace the thermostat only without purchasing a thermostat with the housing?

I'd like to finally move to a 160 degree stat and the prices are pretty steep for the for the complete unit.

I was hoping to find a "how to" write up but searching resulted in none.

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

I believe it is all one piece and the thermostat cannot be removed from the neck.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

In order to get a thermostat that is separate from the housing you need to replace your water pump with a 2003 or newer unit. I'm 99% sure this is the only water pump you can get from GM for an LSx equipped car. All you would have to do is go to a GM dealership and purchase a water pump for your car.


But considering the reason you'd like to have the the T-stat and housing as separate pieces is cost, you probably don't want to spend the money on a new water pump just to upgrade your stat. You'll probably just want to bite the bullet and spend $50-$60 for the one piece T-stat/Housing. (I know a website that rhymes with egay that used to sell the same Motorad 160 Stat for our cars that SLP sells for much less than what they want for them.)


Upgrading to a 160 was one of my first mods. Installing it isn't at all difficult.

Disconnect the Radiator Hose that goes to the housing. Be sure to have a pan under the car to catch the Coolant you loose.

Next disconnect the clip holding the wiring loom that is attached to the housing and move the loom out of the way.

And finally remove the two (I think they're 10mm) bolts that hold the Housing/T-stat to the Water Pump. You'll loose some coolant here, so you'll want to keep that pan under the car for this step too.

The plastic clip that held the wiring loom can be transfered over to the new Housing/T-stat at this time.

Place the new Housing/T-stat into the water pump and reinstall the two 10mm bolts.

Place the wiring loom back into the clip and then reattach the Radiator Hose onto the neck of the Housing.

Refill your Radiator with Fresh 50/50 Dexcool and keep some extra handy.

Start the car, with the Radiator Cap off and watch for the Coolant Level to go down in the radiator. Once it does, add more Coolant and replace the Radiator Cap. BE SURE TO MONITOR THE TEMPERATURE GAGE WHILE DOING THIS.

And thats it, man. Pretty straight forward.

I actually had to do mine twice! I ordered an SLP Stat/Housing Combo and when I removed the stock one the housing and stat came out of the pump separate. I had the water pump replaced just a few months after I purchased the car in December of 2003. So it was the newer version with the two piece. Man, I was pissed. I ended up getting one from SDPC and put the SLP unit on my bro's car. So it all worked out.

I hope this helps. Good luck with your upcoming install.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I'm finding Auto Zone has in their brand (Duralast) a 160 degree stat with housing for 32 bucks.

I'll have a look at it.

Mumbles, I'd wait until the thermostat's opened to help flush out any air pockets before doing the final coolant top-of & closing of the system.

Thanks guys!

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

Cool. Saving money on performance parts is the best!

Absolutely. Thats what I meant when I mentioned waiting for the coolant level to drop in the radiator. That usually means the Stat has opened up and coolant has begun to flow. Sounds like you know what you're doing. Good luck, man.

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

actually i just got the car to normal temp range, then hooked a hose to my hot water in my garage, then opened the radiator bleed line, and turned the car on. let the water flow through the whole engine till it came out the bleed whole clear, then i did the whole swap, this way you get all that crap out of your system, mine runs 10 times better and doesnt boil over any more when it gets hot. i also added a 180 t-stat from hypertech and lowered my fan temps turn on and off times by 5*

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

I run that T-stat and it is actually a nice German made piece.... Keep in mind it will start to open at 160* and fully open about 170* so set your fan temps accordingly.....

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Thermostat Swap:

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ostat_swap.htm

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

OK boys, I got the Auto Zone thermostat. SOMbitch was right, it's Moto Rad from Germany. $31.99 plus tax, it was stocked locally and they had it in the store the next morning.

Nice piece, certainly no better or worse than the more expensive SLP or Hypertech thermostats.

I'm having issues uploading to photobucket, I'll try again later. For now:

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

and i am spending 60$ for the hypertech stat

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I got my German housing back in 2002....t-stat can be popped in and out of the housing.

.

98ss_camaro_vert

thinking about doing this mod since its get to be 115 F here in AZ,
so do you adjust the fans temp when getting a tune???

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Yes, you can't do one without the other.

I have my tune but the 'stat's not yet installed. The stock thermostat is trying to maintain 187 degrees but the fans are trying to maitain 160 degrees. The result is the fans stay on pretty much all the time.