The fix for my endless alternator failure's
I crusied by O'Rieliy auto store and asked for a 03 Cadilack escalade alternater and he brought out the same small cased 105 amp. atl that the junk yard (they deliveryed 2 like this) I understand that there are actuelly 4 differnt models of escalaids 2 wheel drive 4 wheel drive some loaded some not I'm wondering which exact escalaid has this big ad244. KG3 is meaningless it's only an option code.
A few posts up, I posted a list of all CS series alternators (alternators being discussed here). List shows everything you need. Just click on the Adobe link to see the list. Have attached it below, as well. Hope this helps.
Side note reference for the archives: A 2 wire 145 AMP DR244 can easily be used, also. It takes a 2 wire to 4 wire harness (or some cutting & splicing), but, can be used. I mention this in case someone finds a 2 wire 145 AMP alternator for less than the 4 wire 145 AMP alternator & wants to save some money.
I thought that was a stereo fuse however it doe'snt look water resistant is it there to protect the battery from overcharge?
I crusied by O'Rieliy auto store and asked for a 03 Cadilack escalade alternater.
and he bought out the same small cased 105 amp. atl that the junk yard (they deliveryed 2 like this)
I understand that there are actuelly 4 differnt models of escalaids 2 wheel drive 4 wheel drive some loaded some not I'm wondering which exact escalaid has this big ad244.
KG3 is meaningless it's only an option code.
when I was observing the alt. at the auto store I asked for a lug to fit over the positive output and the Oring of lug was 1/4" however this copper lug was designed for much skinnier wire that my AWG4 I plan to use.
so I have to search a bit of this lug.
I am very interested in this Tuf enought alt. mainly because they claim it to be new maybe TransAm_VS_VR-4 will chime in w/ details.
I crusied by O'Rieliy auto store and asked for a 03 Cadilack escalade alternater.
and he bought out the same small cased 105 amp. atl that the junk yard (they deliveryed 2 like this)
I understand that there are actuelly 4 differnt models of escalaids 2 wheel drive 4 wheel drive some loaded some not I'm wondering which exact escalaid has this big ad244.
KG3 is meaningless it's only an option code.
when I was observing the alt. at the auto store I asked for a lug to fit over the positive output and the Oring of lug was 1/4" however this copper lug was designed for much skinnier wire that my AWG4 I plan to use.
so I have to search a bit of this lug.
I am very interested in this Tuf enought alt. mainly because they claim it to be new maybe TransAm_VS_VR-4 will chime in w/ details.
I understand the desire to have a new alternator, but I had roughly 10 NEW alternators fail in a year, new ones of different brands and from multiple suppliers, I had a specific purpose in buying a used one, it is most likely to be GM built with actual quality internals. I had one new one fail in 5 minutes, seriously.
Plus, my alternator was $43 at LKQ and over a year later it's still kicking ***. Im assuming the new one is around $200? Thats 5 used ones.....
Maybe ask for a Escalade ESV with all options?
The wire SJ added is to help carry the extra output of the larger alternator, don't worry too much about the water resistantance or lack of, that is a very common under hood fuse to use, if you want water resistant you can get one at a stereo shop like car toys. You could get your wiring and lugs there too.
Found it on their website in seconds, found it under 2003 Escalade ESV with a 6.0 with a 140 amp plus alternator, and also under a 2003 Suburban 2500 with a 6.0, hell it even lists it on the Silverado, you just have to ask for the 145 amp. It will look similar to the 105, the case is slightly larger. Look at the pics in this thread, sjsingle1 and myself posted tons of pictures and information. Read it and you will find everything you are looking for.
Just did this swap today with the stock wiring (cleaned up all the connection points, too).
With every conceivable electrical accessory on, AC on high, fans on high, rear defroster on, and it never dropped below 14 volts.
I cheated, though. Got a *new* 145 amp Remy alternator from Advanced Auto Parts for a 2003 Tahoe with the 5.3. Part number is 91611-WU, cost is $155.
Ordered a used one on-line, they sent me a DR44G alternator with the 2 pin plug. After a followup mail and clarifying that I wanted an AD244 with the 4 pin plug, I received another DR44g with a 2 pin plug. I gave up and bought the new one.
With every conceivable electrical accessory on, AC on high, fans on high, rear defroster on, and it never dropped below 14 volts.
I cheated, though. Got a *new* 145 amp Remy alternator from Advanced Auto Parts for a 2003 Tahoe with the 5.3. Part number is 91611-WU, cost is $155.
Ordered a used one on-line, they sent me a DR44G alternator with the 2 pin plug. After a followup mail and clarifying that I wanted an AD244 with the 4 pin plug, I received another DR44g with a 2 pin plug. I gave up and bought the new one.
I thought that was a stereo fuse however it doe'snt look water resistant is it there to protect the battery from overcharge?
the fuse holder i am using does have a cover but i have not put it on......i also have a water proof fuse holder that i am not using.........since putting the fuse holder on that you see in the pics i have had zero issues with water or moisture so i have left it alone.......if i should have a issue in the future with moisture i will change it out very quickly
the fuse holder i am using does have a cover but i have not put it on......i also have a water proof fuse holder that i am not using.........since putting the fuse holder on that you see in the pics i have had zero issues with water or moisture so i have left it alone.......if i should have a issue in the future with moisture i will change it out very quickly
The fuse is in place to protect the car from a potential fire or destroyed wiring harness if the battery cable shorts to ground, that's why it needs to be as close to the battery as possible. If the battery dead-shorts to ground with no fuse then very bad things will ensue.
Today I noticed my volts gauge in the 12's-13's with the car running, took a DVM to the battery with the car and idle and found only getting 13v's so I decided to take it out and have it tested. First place told me it was good and ok! I decided I wanted a second opinion so I took it to place #2 they found the I/F terminal Failed but everything else tested ok.
Thanks to this thread I switched to a new 145 amp 04 Burban Alternator for cheaper then the stock alternator and now my voltage seems to be back to normal with 14.67 @ Idle.
Thanks to this thread I switched to a new 145 amp 04 Burban Alternator for cheaper then the stock alternator and now my voltage seems to be back to normal with 14.67 @ Idle.
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Verdad Gallardo Keep it as a spare 'cuz the 2 pin can be used, as well. From my post above...
Side note reference for the archives: A 2 wire 145 AMP DR244 can easily be used, also. It takes a 2 wire to 4 wire harness (or some cutting & splicing), but, can be used. I mention this in case someone finds a 2 wire 145 AMP alternator for less than the 4 wire 145 AMP alternator & wants to save some money.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lee, VA
Well fellas, I've experienced the same issues as stated by the OP. I did the big3, got a new battery, new tensioners, belt, also a KG3 Alternator and I'm still experiencing the same problem. The car is a 2000 m6 camaro ss with heads and cam. No underdrive pulley, no smog or air pump, disconnected my amp to my highs. I've checked every ground (even those behind the head) on the car and even piggybacked the engine ground strap with a 0gauge. I've checked all the fuses (interior and engine bay) and nothing is blown or blackened. The car starts up great and the volts are at about 14.5, gradually the volts creep down as the car warms up until just above 13v then comes the bouncing gauge that I was originally getting. I noticed when the fans kick on the volts start to bounce, is there an inline fuse I'm missing?... I'm at a loss right now, I'm not sure what the next step to take would be... Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Can someone tell me what to look at next? I put my battery in the rear of the car, and used 1/0 welding wire from the battery to the fuse box, ran 4 guage from the batt to the alt, and then another 4 guage from the fuse box to the starter. Start the car up cold, its up around 13, soon as I hit the brakes or anything it drops. I swapped alts for another stock, didn't work and I came across this thread, I went today and purchased a 145 amp alt off a 05 silverado, still same prob. I checked my ground in the rear, seems ok. It is mounted on the rear seatbelt mount. I am running a redtop optima. Any info would help, I am at a lost.
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, TN
ok swapped the 03 escalade alt in and the voltage seems ok but i have 2 problems once i put the car in reverse and push on the gas hard the cars flickers off and on and i can hear the bcm start to chime like i had just turned the car off ......it was weird and when im in reverse and the wheel is fully locked turning out of a parking spot the car dies...........this didnt happen before!!!
Just did this swap today with the stock wiring (cleaned up all the connection points, too).
With every conceivable electrical accessory on, AC on high, fans on high, rear defroster on, and it never dropped below 14 volts.
I cheated, though. Got a *new* 145 amp Remy alternator from Advanced Auto Parts for a 2003 Tahoe with the 5.3. Part number is 91611-WU, cost is $155.
Ordered a used one on-line, they sent me a DR44G alternator with the 2 pin plug. After a followup mail and clarifying that I wanted an AD244 with the 4 pin plug, I received another DR44g with a 2 pin plug. I gave up and bought the new one.
With every conceivable electrical accessory on, AC on high, fans on high, rear defroster on, and it never dropped below 14 volts.
I cheated, though. Got a *new* 145 amp Remy alternator from Advanced Auto Parts for a 2003 Tahoe with the 5.3. Part number is 91611-WU, cost is $155.
Ordered a used one on-line, they sent me a DR44G alternator with the 2 pin plug. After a followup mail and clarifying that I wanted an AD244 with the 4 pin plug, I received another DR44g with a 2 pin plug. I gave up and bought the new one.
Today I noticed my volts gauge in the 12's-13's with the car running, took a DVM to the battery with the car and idle and found only getting 13v's so I decided to take it out and have it tested. First place told me it was good and ok! I decided I wanted a second opinion so I took it to place #2 they found the I/F terminal Failed but everything else tested ok.
Thanks to this thread I switched to a new 145 amp 04 Burban Alternator for cheaper then the stock alternator and now my voltage seems to be back to normal with 14.67 @ Idle.
Thanks to this thread I switched to a new 145 amp 04 Burban Alternator for cheaper then the stock alternator and now my voltage seems to be back to normal with 14.67 @ Idle.
thanks for all the help and pictures in the thread, and for the info that lead to the idea in the first placeGood info posted, 'preciate it!
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Memphis, TN
got new battery the full steering lock and the car killing itself is gone it runs fine BUT if im at full stop put the car in reverse and give it some throttle to make the car jump backwards hard..the car flickers and chimes from the bcm its like the car restarts itself all connections are tight and the exciter is on there
got new battery the full steering lock and the car killing itself is gone it runs fine BUT if im at full stop put the car in reverse and give it some throttle to make the car jump backwards hard..the car flickers and chimes from the bcm its like the car restarts itself all connections are tight and the exciter is on there
Last edited by sjsingle1; Jun 28, 2011 at 12:50 PM.