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The fix for my endless alternator failure's

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Old 11-28-2011, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
\

Sweet! Good to hear!




My belt looks like it may be a hair forward? It squeaks and when I push it slightly in (I use a screwdriver or ratchet handle while the car is running) it stops squeaking. I push the belt in toward the engine between the alternator and the crank pulley. Being that it stops squeaking when I push it in a hair makes me think the alt pulley sits a hair forward.

SJ do you still have the stock truck alternator. Can you compare the truck pulley to the gold pulley to see if I need to get a F body pulley please?
the pulley on the truck alt is the same as the stock alt......it has 747 stamped on it.....the pulley should measure form the face of the alt....1 1/16......the gold pulley put it out at 1 1/8
Old 11-28-2011, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
You don't absolutely have to replace it, it plugs directly in but I HIGHLY recommend you do change that wire, they do go bad and also you need a hair more length in that wire. I believe you can just pull on the wire and plug it in but that then puts stress on it.

To have the least issues go ahead and replace it.
Alright I did. Should probably replace the belt as well, but I'm strapped for cash ATM.
Old 11-28-2011, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
the pulley on the truck alt is the same as the stock alt......it has 747 stamped on it.....the pulley should measure form the face of the alt....1 1/16......the gold pulley put it out at 1 1/8
Okay thanks man, maybe i'll try a different belt because mine always squeaks when it's cold.

You mentioned you liked the higher walls on the gold pulley, that made me think of the tensioner pulley, have you considered doing the buick tensioner pulley that has the high walls? I did one on my car and it kept the belt from jumping. It used to jump a couple ribs all the friggin time but it hasn't done it one time since I put the buick pulley on. My tensioner is a little weak im sure after all these years but the buick pulley also put a hair more tension on the belt so it's an awesome 10 or so dollar "mod"

Originally Posted by Guitar
Alright I did. Should probably replace the belt as well, but I'm strapped for cash ATM.
Eh, as long as the belt isn't trashed it'll be fine until you can replace it. By the way I reread your post that you said you had problems with things acting up, got a jump, made it a couple miles, then it died while driving... that's what happens when the alternator isn't charging, it will die while driving and a jump will charge the battery just enough to start it and run a short period of time until the battery dies again. I didn't catch that exact wording the first time I read your post.
Old 11-28-2011, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by NemeSS
Rebuilt mine for 175amp in stock fbody housing. I've rebuilt the stockers to crank out 135amp instead of 105. Stock fbod housings. Never needed 200amp alternators yet
Do the rebuild yourself? Where did you get the parts? I don't need a 200 or so amp alt either just one that actually flipping works more than 5 minutes! That's how I ended up here in the first place. I bought the truck alternator as a test to see what would happen if I tried a used OE alternator, and I used the truck alt because I have a small system and it is higher output than the stock alt.

I wanted to see if I still had failure issues or not with a OE unit but was not gonna cough up $400 for a GM unit to have it possibly fail again and I know GM wouldn't want to warranty their parts near as easily as a parts store if they did at all (without a major hassle)

After roughly 10 alternators I thought I was crazy, I tested everything on my car several times thinking there is no way my car ate 10 alternators and the alternator was the problem. Well... it was. Rediculous.
Old 11-29-2011, 12:17 AM
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just an update, got the stock fbody rebuilt to better output havent fired motor yet, but anyhow, since its an iron block did have to drill the hole, which only took a couple of minutes... I showed how I did that and what i used in a thread i made with Fbody accessories parts listed...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...t-99-02-a.html

here is the alt all bolted up, thanks for all the info
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the hole in the back for the back brace is already there, I drilled and tapped the upper hole on the front brace and the middle hole is not used (on the truck iron blocks, the truck aluminum 5.3 and 6.0 already have all the holes needed)
Old 11-29-2011, 12:46 PM
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yes........i have the big buick pulley on my main tensoner......its really nice..............did it after i threw the belt and got stranded
Old 11-29-2011, 08:32 PM
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Thursday all my stuff gets here...which is good since I'm getting me stereo re-installed Friday lol.
Old 12-02-2011, 01:47 PM
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$60 used alternator from 2004 GMC Yukon, 145amp, opt KG3 from LKQcorp (p/n 601-00949)
$29.99 4-pin alternator wire from autozone (p/n pt1136)
$30 to swap alternator pulleys from pepboys (rediculous!)
left off rear bracket and put red thread lock on the three front bolts.

Fixed voltgage jumps, original belt fits fine, no more dimming lights! Thank you ls1tech.com!
Old 12-02-2011, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by aquariussuperman
$60 used alternator from 2004 GMC Yukon, 145amp, opt KG3 from LKQcorp (p/n 601-00949)
$29.99 4-pin alternator wire from autozone (p/n pt1136)
$30 to swap alternator pulleys from pepboys (rediculous!)
left off rear bracket and put red thread lock on the three front bolts.

Fixed voltgage jumps, original belt fits fine, no more dimming lights! Thank you ls1tech.com!
Awesome
Old 12-02-2011, 03:09 PM
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30$ to swap pulleys??? glad i have an impact........but was the pulley different? stock will have 747 on it......and i got a alt wire off ebay for 10$
Old 12-02-2011, 06:25 PM
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Okay so I'm not going to say how long it took, but I will say that this was a ******* pain in the ***.

So, I got it off, got the top bracket off, re-installed the new one. Didn't swap pullies anything. Was in a rush and it was dark when I tried to finish tonight so haven't swapped the wire yet either. I noticed on the new alternator the bolt where it goes to the battery (I think) was smaller, so my nut and wire weren't a perfect fit...had to get another nut and kind of ghetto rigged it (but it works). The other thing, the pullies looked exactly the same, so I didn't bother even trying to swap them or have it done.

I put it on and started it up. Note, left the small bracket on because 1. it was annoying 2. I couldn't get the small bolt off even after standing on the damn thing and using a lot of strength. Instantly started smoking, looked like belt was off. Anyways, put belt back on "correctly", started back up, no smoke. Give it revs, spit out I think parts of the belt it might have tried to eat...? Anyways, it started up and read at a solid level. The only thing I notice is that the pulley on the alternator is possibly a bit too far out. The last rib towards the front of the car doesn't have belt on it...but it still is spinning and when I rev it everything is good. Still sitting on jack and jack stands as I know I'll have to pull it and fix tomorrow.

So....what do I do to fix it? I'm going to assume that isn't normal.
Old 12-02-2011, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
30$ to swap pulleys??? glad i have an impact........but was the pulley different? stock will have 747 on it......and i got a alt wire off ebay for 10$
?1.did you swap pulleys the stock pulley to the 244?

?2. are you referring to the 4 pin alt. connecter asa alt. wire? if yes do you have a ebay link for the alt. wire.
Thanks
Old 12-02-2011, 08:02 PM
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i swapped pulleys from the stocker to my monster truck alt.........it came with a diff pulley

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-02-LS1-Ca...item5645de6deb
Old 12-02-2011, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Guitar
Okay so I'm not going to say how long it took, but I will say that this was a ******* pain in the ***.

So, I got it off, got the top bracket off, re-installed the new one. Didn't swap pullies anything. Was in a rush and it was dark when I tried to finish tonight so haven't swapped the wire yet either. I noticed on the new alternator the bolt where it goes to the battery (I think) was smaller, so my nut and wire weren't a perfect fit...had to get another nut and kind of ghetto rigged it (but it works). The other thing, the pullies looked exactly the same, so I didn't bother even trying to swap them or have it done.

I put it on and started it up. Note, left the small bracket on because 1. it was annoying 2. I couldn't get the small bolt off even after standing on the damn thing and using a lot of strength. Instantly started smoking, looked like belt was off. Anyways, put belt back on "correctly", started back up, no smoke. Give it revs, spit out I think parts of the belt it might have tried to eat...? Anyways, it started up and read at a solid level. The only thing I notice is that the pulley on the alternator is possibly a bit too far out. The last rib towards the front of the car doesn't have belt on it...but it still is spinning and when I rev it everything is good. Still sitting on jack and jack stands as I know I'll have to pull it and fix tomorrow.

So....what do I do to fix it? I'm going to assume that isn't normal.
pics?
Old 12-03-2011, 04:00 PM
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Got it fixed. Apparently wasn't tightened enough, tightened the hell out of all the bolts and now they are inline. I'll check it periodically to make sure it is okay.
Old 12-11-2011, 03:28 PM
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just bought truck alt online, brand new, shipped to my door for 90 bucks. cant beat it. thanks for all the info
Old 12-16-2011, 09:14 PM
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So..I'm having some problems. I've noticed my gauge going from 8 to 13 randomly (I've done the swap). Normally when I start up it is low, around 8, then when I start driving it goes up, sometimes with just a rev. I also got my stereo re-installed (amp+12" sub+headunit) and it seems to be the exact same, however, when the bass gets heavy, the system will cut out and the power level will go really low. For instance today, I was listening to Smile Back (heavy bass), and all of a sudden the system cut off (car still running) and I see the ABS light come on. I cut the system off, gave it a few revs, went back up and seemed fine. Turned it back on, seemed fine.

I had the system in my other Camaro and never had a problem.

What could be the problem? I still haven't switched the wire, I'll do that maybe tomorrow and see if that fixes anything. I'll also grab a new belt, though I doubt that'd do anything. Any suggestions?
Old 12-16-2011, 09:30 PM
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when you say you did the swap.........junk yard alt....hi-po built........auto zone reman........flebay?
Old 12-16-2011, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
when you say you did the swap.........junk yard alt....hi-po built........auto zone reman........flebay?
eBay alternator pulled from a Tahoe. Got a 6mo warranty, if it is the same after I change the wire and belt, I'll probably ask for a switch.
Old 12-17-2011, 01:06 AM
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it is a possibility.........


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