The fix for my endless alternator failure's
Alright, so I think I fixed the charging issue. It was the ground? on the back of the alternator I believe. Anyways, now I've run into another one. I noticed the fuse for my amp was blown (one that goes in the middle of battery and amp under the hood). So I went to replace it, went to hook the battery back up again, and it blew again.
So I probably have a short somewhere...?
So I probably have a short somewhere...?
Great...so went to take the alternator off, and the 12v bolt on the back literally disintegrated...the bolt holding it on came off with the nut. So I have no place to put the 12v alt to battery wire...do I really have to buy a new alternator to fix that...?
However...my stereo is still sparking. Basically as I said the others blew...well I went to get some new fuses and put it back in again and it was sparking like crazy...so maybe there is a short in my stereo now..?
EDIT: took the wire going to the amp out of the fusebox...replaced the fuse, no spark. Went to plug wire back in, spark. So the short I have is somewhere within that wire...checked it in the back, looked okay, but I'll double check tomorrow. There should be no breaks in the wire along it, so where should I check for the short?
Last edited by Guitar; Dec 30, 2011 at 06:25 PM.
Everything is fixed. My amplifier wire was grounded to my headers. 
Got that re-routed around some stuff and hopefully secured...everything back to normal, gauge reading as it should...wonder what the next problem will be.
Thanks for the help everyone!
Got that re-routed around some stuff and hopefully secured...everything back to normal, gauge reading as it should...wonder what the next problem will be.Thanks for the help everyone!
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1
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My dash voltmeter is intermittently wavering wildly between 8 and 14 volts, usually at startup. This stops after about 2 minutes of running, at which time the voltemeter reads a steady ~13.5v. Battery always stays charged.
I am thinking this could be a developing alternator problem. Based on this thread:
1. I can replace my stock alternator with a junked KG3 truck alternator.
2. It appears the junked truck alternator comes with a 747 pulley. I am assuming that the stock f-body alternator also uses a 747 pulley.
3. 00pooterSS notes that pulley alignment slightly off after this mod, even with the presumed 747 pulley. Is this acceptable? Is this misalignment due to the cases being different, relative to the stock alternator, or is it pulley position due to differing shaft lengths? Is there any way to get perfect alignment?
4. Would changing the wiring harness 4 pin connector to 2 pin connector be beneficial so newer junk trunk alternators (with 2 pin connections) could be used?
Thanks.
I am thinking this could be a developing alternator problem. Based on this thread:
1. I can replace my stock alternator with a junked KG3 truck alternator.
2. It appears the junked truck alternator comes with a 747 pulley. I am assuming that the stock f-body alternator also uses a 747 pulley.
3. 00pooterSS notes that pulley alignment slightly off after this mod, even with the presumed 747 pulley. Is this acceptable? Is this misalignment due to the cases being different, relative to the stock alternator, or is it pulley position due to differing shaft lengths? Is there any way to get perfect alignment?
4. Would changing the wiring harness 4 pin connector to 2 pin connector be beneficial so newer junk trunk alternators (with 2 pin connections) could be used?
Thanks.
My dash voltmeter is intermittently wavering wildly between 8 and 14 volts, usually at startup. This stops after about 2 minutes of running, at which time the voltemeter reads a steady ~13.5v. Battery always stays charged.
I am thinking this could be a developing alternator problem. Based on this thread:
1. I can replace my stock alternator with a junked KG3 truck alternator.
2. It appears the junked truck alternator comes with a 747 pulley. I am assuming that the stock f-body alternator also uses a 747 pulley.
3. 00pooterSS notes that pulley alignment slightly off after this mod, even with the presumed 747 pulley. Is this acceptable? Is this misalignment due to the cases being different, relative to the stock alternator, or is it pulley position due to differing shaft lengths? Is there any way to get perfect alignment?
4. Would changing the wiring harness 4 pin connector to 2 pin connector be beneficial so newer junk trunk alternators (with 2 pin connections) could be used?
Thanks.
I am thinking this could be a developing alternator problem. Based on this thread:
1. I can replace my stock alternator with a junked KG3 truck alternator.
2. It appears the junked truck alternator comes with a 747 pulley. I am assuming that the stock f-body alternator also uses a 747 pulley.
3. 00pooterSS notes that pulley alignment slightly off after this mod, even with the presumed 747 pulley. Is this acceptable? Is this misalignment due to the cases being different, relative to the stock alternator, or is it pulley position due to differing shaft lengths? Is there any way to get perfect alignment?
4. Would changing the wiring harness 4 pin connector to 2 pin connector be beneficial so newer junk trunk alternators (with 2 pin connections) could be used?
Thanks.
I have a belt squeak issue so I just wanted someone to confirm the distance from the front of the pulley on the truck alternator to the mounting pads on the alternator. I didn't say that it is actually out of alignment, just wanted to eliminate that possibility by checking. Best I can tell it is in alignment. But I need a stock F body alternator to compare to on a bench with a truck alternator to 100% confirm. Others do not have the issue I have so it's very doubtful that that is the issue.
No you can't do the 2 wire, the 2 wire came on the trucks that have a voltage monitoring box on the battery wire and the PCM cycles the alternator on and off. Our cars don't have that function. It may be possible to wire up a 2 wire where it stays on all the time but I do not know for sure.
If I recall GM did that on the trucks to boost fuel economy by only running the alternator as much as needed not at all times.
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
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I registered just to say thanks to the OP and others who have contributed to this thread and add something I discovered as well. The small case AD series (105A AD230) alternators also fit and work. I didn't need to upgrade to a higher current alt just replace a failing stock unit. The AD230 was considerably less expensive than either the AD244 or another CS130D so I though I'd give it a try. The way I understand it, the 230 also benefits from not having the diodes stacked and associated overheating problem of the CS series so even though it's not an upgrade, hopefully it will be more reliable than the original as a direct replacement.
Tony
Tony
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 65
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From: Knoxville, Tn
I just did this fix with the AD244. My alternator had just given out so I decided to go with this upgrade instead of risking multiple failures with a new stock 102amp alternator. Everything worked great. I used the Advanced Auto Parts part number 91611-WU to buy my new alternator with. I wanted to thank LS1Tech Members The-Bishop and sjsingle1 for helping me out with the questions I had through PM. Thanks guys.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: NJ
I posted a thread a while back about having alternator after alternator fail, one literally lasted about 5 minutes.
Long story short I tested every thing multiple times and even replaced the exciter wire and connector, never could find an issue and it all started when I replaced the factory original alternator with an aftermarket one, and it was all downhill from there.
The fix.... A truck alternator. I got the idea from another board member that the truck alternator actually fits the F body cars, so I went to the junk yard and spent $40 on a used 2003 Truck 145 amp alternator bolted it in and the voltage has never been more stable.
The 145 amp truck alternator only has one simple modification that needs to be made to use it, it does not use the rear support bracket that the F body alternator does so remove the one bolt and bracket, other than that it bolts directly in, plugs directly up, and works good!! So for less money you can have an higher amperage output, more stable, more durable alternator if you go this route. The pulley was even the same, this couldn't be easier.
I am going to add a wire from the back of the alternator to the battery to help carry the extra amperage since it has been stated the factory wire isn't even enough for the puny stock alternator.
I hope this helps anyone else with the same issues, here is the link to my original thread if you feel like reading more details of the problems I was having
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ders-here.html
Identifying the right alternator:Get a 99-2003 Truck alternator (may even apply to up to around 2005?), 145 amp, 4 pin connector, the code junk yards use to identify it is "KG3". The standard truck alternator is a 105, Escalades and such trucks with a lot of electronics use the 145. When I ordered mine I told them it was a 2003 truck, 145 amp, 4 pin connector, KG3 option and they figured it out. I got mine from LKQ for $43.30 picked up.
Some more info on identifying the alternator
ALSO VERY IMPORTANT Replace the alternator connector, the single wire connector with the plastic plug in on the top, these fail and cause problems as well. Here is some information on the connector.
AC Delco part PN# PT1136 (Oreilly has another brand also for the connector, don't remember the name brand)
I got mine from NAPA so you can try going there or go to Oreilly
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...aro&vi=1361450
Long story short I tested every thing multiple times and even replaced the exciter wire and connector, never could find an issue and it all started when I replaced the factory original alternator with an aftermarket one, and it was all downhill from there.
The fix.... A truck alternator. I got the idea from another board member that the truck alternator actually fits the F body cars, so I went to the junk yard and spent $40 on a used 2003 Truck 145 amp alternator bolted it in and the voltage has never been more stable.
The 145 amp truck alternator only has one simple modification that needs to be made to use it, it does not use the rear support bracket that the F body alternator does so remove the one bolt and bracket, other than that it bolts directly in, plugs directly up, and works good!! So for less money you can have an higher amperage output, more stable, more durable alternator if you go this route. The pulley was even the same, this couldn't be easier.
I am going to add a wire from the back of the alternator to the battery to help carry the extra amperage since it has been stated the factory wire isn't even enough for the puny stock alternator.
I hope this helps anyone else with the same issues, here is the link to my original thread if you feel like reading more details of the problems I was having
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ders-here.html
Identifying the right alternator:Get a 99-2003 Truck alternator (may even apply to up to around 2005?), 145 amp, 4 pin connector, the code junk yards use to identify it is "KG3". The standard truck alternator is a 105, Escalades and such trucks with a lot of electronics use the 145. When I ordered mine I told them it was a 2003 truck, 145 amp, 4 pin connector, KG3 option and they figured it out. I got mine from LKQ for $43.30 picked up.
Some more info on identifying the alternator
ALSO VERY IMPORTANT Replace the alternator connector, the single wire connector with the plastic plug in on the top, these fail and cause problems as well. Here is some information on the connector.
AC Delco part PN# PT1136 (Oreilly has another brand also for the connector, don't remember the name brand)
I got mine from NAPA so you can try going there or go to Oreilly
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...aro&vi=1361450
i know the OLDER CS130 had a bearing problems.......which consisted of cooling problems that over heated the bearings ..... and it was identified by GM and fixed in the new CS130 series........never heard of it being a problem since
Last edited by sjsingle1; Jan 26, 2012 at 03:09 AM.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 812
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From: NJ
possibly. i have noticed less of them over the last couple of years. i think the newest i've done one of those on was an 03.
GM made the bearings bigger and put that big funky cooling shroud on f bod alts......have not heard of to many peeps complain about bearing failures............think it is more rectifier failures
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: NJ
one of the biggest causes of those bearing failures....and i've replaced more than my share of the cs alternators........was a bad serp belt tensioner.
i would think that a too tight tensioner would stress out a bearing.......not a old loose stocker......and when i did change out my stocker with a much superior dayco unit.....i learned how loose it was
I went to Oreilly's and got a 100% new Ultima Select 145 amp alternator. Also got part # PT1136 (4-pin connector)
I've got the alternator installed and looking to wire it up now. Just want to confirm that I only use (1) wire on part # PT 1136 where the connector is labeled (L) on the rectifier? What is the point of getting a new connector for this alternator then? Just to ensure a clean good connection? Do I just cut the red wire from the existing plug on the engine harness and solder it to the new wire on PT1136? Nothing else to do right?
I've got the alternator installed and looking to wire it up now. Just want to confirm that I only use (1) wire on part # PT 1136 where the connector is labeled (L) on the rectifier? What is the point of getting a new connector for this alternator then? Just to ensure a clean good connection? Do I just cut the red wire from the existing plug on the engine harness and solder it to the new wire on PT1136? Nothing else to do right?
I went to Oreilly's and got a 100% new Ultima Select 145 amp alternator. Also got part # PT1136 (4-pin connector)
I've got the alternator installed and looking to wire it up now. Just want to confirm that I only use (1) wire on part # PT 1136 where the connector is labeled (L) on the rectifier? What is the point of getting a new connector for this alternator then? Just to ensure a clean good connection? Do I just cut the red wire from the existing plug on the engine harness and solder it to the new wire on PT1136? Nothing else to do right?
I've got the alternator installed and looking to wire it up now. Just want to confirm that I only use (1) wire on part # PT 1136 where the connector is labeled (L) on the rectifier? What is the point of getting a new connector for this alternator then? Just to ensure a clean good connection? Do I just cut the red wire from the existing plug on the engine harness and solder it to the new wire on PT1136? Nothing else to do right?
You are replacing it due to the fact it is a common failure. So yes to ensure a good connection. Yes cut wire and solder on new.
You have it all right.
These parts would work ?
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...1468&ppt=C0330
And everytime on O Reilly I type pt1136 this comes up
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei..._jtt_v_thumb=1
Are those all I need ? And will those both work??
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...1468&ppt=C0330
And everytime on O Reilly I type pt1136 this comes up
http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei..._jtt_v_thumb=1
Are those all I need ? And will those both work??