The fix for my endless alternator failure's
My 2000 T/A started exhibiting occasional sporadic dimming of cockpit lights while at idle. Voltage gauge shows drops down to 10 volts. Measured 12.5 at the battery terminals while the engine was off. When running and the voltage has not dipped, I am seeing 13.85 with no additional electrical subsystems turned on. It seems to become more frequent when the engine has been running a while. The Haynes manual says that I should be seeing 14-15 volts. Connections all seem solid and clean.
At this point I think the regulator is on the way to that junkyard in the sky and am considering replacing the alternator. The local shop is offering me a Delco OE 105A model for $530 installed.
I am considering trying this one from AlternatorMan: Part # CS144DR140 - Delco Remy type CS144 Series 140 Amp Extreme Duty Dual Rectifier Alternator with Standard Hook up Vfor $280. Is the truck alternator mentioned in this thread a better deal?
I ask because I noticed that most of the regulators tend to die before the alternators and it wasn't clear whether the truck alternator had a heavy duty diode bridge.
Also, since I am going from 105A to 140A, can I make do with the stock wiring harness from the alternator to the battery or do I need to replace it with a heavier gauge?
At this point I think the regulator is on the way to that junkyard in the sky and am considering replacing the alternator. The local shop is offering me a Delco OE 105A model for $530 installed.
I am considering trying this one from AlternatorMan: Part # CS144DR140 - Delco Remy type CS144 Series 140 Amp Extreme Duty Dual Rectifier Alternator with Standard Hook up Vfor $280. Is the truck alternator mentioned in this thread a better deal?
I ask because I noticed that most of the regulators tend to die before the alternators and it wasn't clear whether the truck alternator had a heavy duty diode bridge.
Also, since I am going from 105A to 140A, can I make do with the stock wiring harness from the alternator to the battery or do I need to replace it with a heavier gauge?
My 2000 T/A started exhibiting occasional sporadic dimming of cockpit lights while at idle. Voltage gauge shows drops down to 10 volts. Measured 12.5 at the battery terminals while the engine was off. When running and the voltage has not dipped, I am seeing 13.85 with no additional electrical subsystems turned on. It seems to become more frequent when the engine has been running a while. The Haynes manual says that I should be seeing 14-15 volts. Connections all seem solid and clean.
At this point I think the regulator is on the way to that junkyard in the sky and am considering replacing the alternator. The local shop is offering me a Delco OE 105A model for $530 installed.
I am considering trying this one from AlternatorMan: Part # CS144DR140 - Delco Remy type CS144 Series 140 Amp Extreme Duty Dual Rectifier Alternator with Standard Hook up Vfor $280. Is the truck alternator mentioned in this thread a better deal?
I ask because I noticed that most of the regulators tend to die before the alternators and it wasn't clear whether the truck alternator had a heavy duty diode bridge.
Also, since I am going from 105A to 140A, can I make do with the stock wiring harness from the alternator to the battery or do I need to replace it with a heavier gauge?
At this point I think the regulator is on the way to that junkyard in the sky and am considering replacing the alternator. The local shop is offering me a Delco OE 105A model for $530 installed.
I am considering trying this one from AlternatorMan: Part # CS144DR140 - Delco Remy type CS144 Series 140 Amp Extreme Duty Dual Rectifier Alternator with Standard Hook up Vfor $280. Is the truck alternator mentioned in this thread a better deal?
I ask because I noticed that most of the regulators tend to die before the alternators and it wasn't clear whether the truck alternator had a heavy duty diode bridge.
Also, since I am going from 105A to 140A, can I make do with the stock wiring harness from the alternator to the battery or do I need to replace it with a heavier gauge?
Yes the truck alternator has heavier duty diodes. The alternator is very very easy to replace, if you have basic tools you can do it yourself. The wiring from the battery to the alternator will be fine since the alternator will only output the amperage that is being required by the system.
So for example whether you have a 20 amp or a 6 million amp alternator, if the system is only drawing 20 amps the alternator is only going to put out that 20 amps, the output goes up as demand goes up. Therefore, as long as you are not adding a lot of additional electronics that will pull through that wire then the same amperage will be pushed through it that there always has been, hence the reason you don't "HAVE" to replace it. You can upgrade the battery to alternator cable if you wish, it definitely doesn't hurt, but not necessary.
Even the 145 amp alternators from the auto parts stores have been doing fine, so the alternatorman HD one should be over kill.
Originally I was thinking I would have to take the car in to get this done. Most of the good shops around here are AAA certified and are not willing to touch a custom modification. If I end up taking this one on my own, then I could go to an AD244. It's one of the reasons I was gathering info.
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So glad I found this thread. My lights have been flickering and thanks to this thread I picked up a 145 amp truck alternator from a local junkyard this afternoon. I will install it tomorrow and check back in with results!
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: FL
my alternator burned out two days ago. I bought a truck reman from advanced auto. The install was easy as could be but when I started the car, after about 3 seconds my check gauges light came on. all the gauges are reading fine, volts gauge is in the 13.5-15 range. I checked the voltage at the battery with the car idling and I'm getting 14.5 volts. Is that voltage high enough to turn on the check gauges light? I didn't have this issue with the stock 105amp before it burned up.
thanks in advance for any feedback
thanks in advance for any feedback
my alternator burned out two days ago. I bought a truck reman from advanced auto. The install was easy as could be but when I started the car, after about 3 seconds my check gauges light came on. all the gauges are reading fine, volts gauge is in the 13.5-15 range. I checked the voltage at the battery with the car idling and I'm getting 14.5 volts. Is that voltage high enough to turn on the check gauges light? I didn't have this issue with the stock 105amp before it burned up.
thanks in advance for any feedback
thanks in advance for any feedback
Also, I have noticed in many many cases the first time you fire a car with a new alternator the voltage goes up real high and then settles in. Is it a little lower now since it's been on for a little while?
Anybody have any fitment issues with the 145 amp AD244 truck alt? I picked on up from LKQ and it is physically too big and wont fit in to the area with the power steering line going around it. The power steering line is in the way and will not let me line up the alt and bracket with the holes in the block. Anybody else?
In which direction and at what point in the line do I tweak it? I do not want to break the power steering line from bending it too far in one direction.
Last edited by tording99Z28; Feb 13, 2013 at 07:17 AM.