Is this the correct autozone/duralast part no? DLG1923-16-4

Thanks for all input in this thread. You guys are awesome. I'm on my third stock alt. And ready to upgrade.

 

I just installed the Duralast DLG1923-16-4, and I'm having some of the issues others have had. My idle seems to be a bit lower than it was pre-install, and when I come off of a rev, rpm's drop to almost stall level.

Also, I'm still showing ~13.0 volts at idle and normal driving.

Any input fellas?

 

you reading that from the gauge in the cluster or a voltmeter on the battery with the car on??


my junkyard 145A alt off a 06 silverado pushes 14.2 volts all day everyday and its been fine for almost a year since I put it on...


If its only pushing out 13 volts you have a bad alt. should be 13.8 at the minimum

 

I'm reading it off of my Aeroforce Interceptor. right when I cranked it up after the install, it was 14.1, but then dropped to 13.0 and stayed that way from then on.

 

ok thats not bad then... although I dont have any idle or off rev issues

 

13.0* not 13.8. I edited my post. it would go between 12.8 and 13.0 for rest of the day.

 

Any help fellas?

 

You can pull it back off and have AutoZone check it for you. You could have gotten a defective one.

 

A lot of cars loose their idle memory after the battery has been disconnected. Let it idle in park for 5 or so minutes with the a/c off then again with the a/c on and see if that helps

13.0 volts isn't that bad, i'd prefer to see 13.5-14.0 range, but 13 technically is enough and should not cause running problems, even if it was down at 12.5 or so it should still run fine. So sounds like you may have two separate problems. Try swapping that alternator out or doing what the thread recommends and buy a used one. The whole reason I started this thread is because I had 10 new alternators fail and a used one was the only thing that worked. I have a used one on my truck too, $60 and problem free. The alternator I got for the camaro was $40 and never had a problem.

 

Ok guys I did alot of research on Rectifiers. Since i am running a procharger I dont want to run the truck alternator and lose the back brace. I have gone through 5 alternators stock one,power bastards (Nevercalled me back!) orilleys rebuilt and had a local guy rebuild mine!. Did the big 3 and replaced the pig tail and fully charged battery when installed. The diodes are what burn up on us. You have to times the amp duty of 3 diodes to get the handling capacity. Higher the capacity the more amps they can handle All the cheap rebuilds and new alternators have the cheapest rectifiers with 40-45 amp diodes http://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr-p6462.html the stock ac delco had 55 amp one reason the new stuff fails. there are a couple of diffrent manufactures WAIglobal (transpro) most common, PowerMax,AS-PL,Regitar. After talking to different rebuilders if you build the little cs130d to make 200 amps it does not like that much heat in the little housing due to tight packed diodes. Plus it has to spin faster due to the stator combo at idle to make the same power so you need smaller pulley. i dont like the smaller pulley cause then it spins real fast at high rpm. basically it like shifting the power curve up killing low end efficiency (my theory)? So what i am thinking like others have stated have a builder make 130 to 150 amp max combo. 95% dont really need a mega alternator anyway unless you have a big stereo then get the truck alternator. If you have a stock alternator or a crappy rebuild just add a good rectifier and a voltage reg and let her rip. Just replacing the rec and voltage reg is easy to do your self with a 180 watt soldering iron from harbor freight for 13$ and a 1/4 socket for the reverse torx. rosin core solder too!

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/...ternator1.html regitar the only true 70 amp diode 3x70=210 amps the transpro does not make 70 amp any more discontinued. christian was very helpful she knew her stuff

http://store.alternatorparts.com/cs130d.aspx lots of parts here rotors and stators randy has built alternators since 1968 very helpful. I could not find any high amp rotors but many stators

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/rectifiers.html DR4200HD it is a common aftermarket one 50 amp diodes 50x3=150 they where nice on the phone did not know much about this alternator

http://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr-p9035.html i was told that this is a marine one thats better then the DR4200HD Rectifier with -s added at the end? 65-70 amp diode cant verify
http://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-dr-p963.html more like stock 50 amp

ok when it comes to pulley size stock is the best hell maybe to small lol alternators dont like 18-19k rpm here are the formulas.
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.244 stock alt pulley size.. equals 3.342x6000 stock shift point rpm equals 20,052 rpm wot stock!!!
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.244 stock alt pulley size.. equals 3.342x6500rpms equals 21,723 rpm!!!
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.244 stock alt pulley size.. equals 3.342x550rpm idle auto 1838rpm low for extra power robing stuff!
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.244 stock alt pulley size.. equals 3.342x650rpm idle auto 2172rpm
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.244 stock alt pulley size.. equals 3.342x750rpm idle auto 2506rpm
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.244 stock alt pulley size.. equals 3.342x800rpm idle m6 2673rpm

7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.03 smaller alt pulley size.. equals 3.694x550 idle 2031rpm
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.03 smaller alt pulley size.. equals 3.694x750 idle 2770rpm
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.03 smaller alt pulley size.. equals 3.694x6500rpms equals 24,011 rpm!!!! dont buy a smaller pulley!
7.5 stock ls1 crank size/2.03 smaller alt pulley size.. equals 3.694x5000!!rpms equals 18,470 rpm!!!! dont buy a smaller pulley!

http://www.aspwholesale.com/pulley-p483.html smaller alternator pulley smaller 52mm vs 66.69mm stock

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...in/0502sc-alt/

i will be tearing apart some stock alternators to let you know what diodes they have in them

 

I agree and that's awesome info.

Question about the procharger bracket, doesn't it mount to one of the bolt holes that goes all the way through the alternator and into the engine block? Or does it mount to a bolt that only goes in the alternator bracket?

If the bolt goes into the block then it shouldn't affect the alternator bracket.

 

your right about that I could run a truck alternator but i will be pushing my d1 to the max and there is lots of flex that happens... i just want to have the bracing i think alchemist on here did that dont know if it held up hope he can chime in!

 

I'm running the Aster bracket, and a stock alternator.

 

Is there any real advantage to using a 180-240 amp truck size alternator, does it have more advance or modern electronics or something? Many suggest replacing our small size stock alternator with this larger case truck alternator (AD244, DR44G). I rather keep the perfect fit stock size with one that a vendor has modified to produce 170-220 amps. Or is this a bad idea sticking with the small size alternator?

I've had my 98 WS6 vert since new. I have spent probably 10 hours reading up on high output alternators and vendor products.

Large Case:
They do run a smaller pulley so you need a shorter belt. One vendor told me you can't change out this small pulley with the stock pulley because these alternators "need those RPM's to kick the unit on". This large case only has two bolt holes for support, stock has three. If removing from bottom of car, not sure if the sway bar needs to be removed to get this larger alternator into its resting place. Does not have the plastic back cover and fan tube like the stock alternator.

Small Case:
I'm guessing it's harder to make this tiny alternator to put out the same power as the truck size alternator - and still make it reliable. I guess that's why very few shops sell the tiny one with larger amps.

 

Nothing needs to be touched when installing the large case 145A alternator .. only thing to watch is the power steering hose (may need to be massaged a little bit for room)

I also still use the stock belt on my bigger alternator.. works fine and has been for over a year since I installed it.. same with the 2 bolt mounting.. doesnt move at all...

 

Ok the first pic is my 200 amp stator from power bastards see what happend it got too hot and warped.

Second pic is my regitr 70 amp on the bottom with clear 70 amp diodes in it. Top is the trans pro dr4204hd the numbers are also messed up some where... dr4204hd the same as dr4200hd most likely is 50 amp and not the 70 amp transpro does not make the 70 amp one anymore. Cant tell what diodes are on it... it burnt up to!

third is the 2 next to each other they look the same

forth is my old 200 amp stator on the right and a new 160 amp stator on the left

 

These things have been covered already and the information you posted is not correct for the alternator this thread covers. The large case and small case pulley size is the same. The belt needs to be longer if anything with the big case, NOT shorter. And that's only because the large case locates the pulley out a little further. BUT the stock length belt still works. I know this because I started this thread and I've done this swap several times.

 

I'm doing an LS1 conversion into a 64 Lemans with a Procharger and Corvette accessory drive. Does anyone know of an alternator with 140 amp capacity that will work?

 

https://alternatorparts.com/cs130-cs...ternators.html this guy knows his stuff!
http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/gm2.html#GMCS130D

 

quote from quick start alternators
"The smaller case CS130 and CS130D series alternators are always going to have reliability problems at 160-200A. Even with a rectifier rated to a full 210A output, there are cooling issues. Bearings cook, stator windings fry, etc. Upgrading the the CS144/AD244 is your best choice for a durable high output alternator."

update i have the 160amp (all they had on hand!) stator and some kind of wrapped rotor? 210 amp rectifier, new bearing,bushing etc... i am getting 14 volts at over 750 rpm but low load plug my lap top computer 10 amps draw it drops to 13 only have 2 fans pulling 30amps not to far from the stock 27 amps fans one extra fuel pump!. i hope it will last! when i kick it in to gear it drops to 650 rpm and the volts come right down and the blower fan slows down i have given up for now. if you got a procharger have quick start build you a 140 unit if just needing a recitifier buy the 210 amp one. but if you can get the truck one and make your life easy!!!!