removed screen from slp maf
or the SLP (done both).
I found the screens more difficult to remove intact than
the stock Oreo MAF.
I saw a lot of output frequency instability after I went
the next step and removed the center vane (except
for sense elements) and hogged out material until the
frequency at the big end matched the stock MAF.
Was looking for the big hole and stock curve, but it
was too jiggy to use by the time I got there.
The more bent your intake tract is, right before the
MAF, the more potential for skew from airflow bias
across the face. My setup is fairly short and straight.
If you have a curved tract you might consider a
relocation to a better place.
drop on a screened MAF and found it roughly equal to
the drop from stock lid / silencer. Descreened the drop
was not measurable. I used a shop vac and could pull
2" H2O on the screened MAF, through the 1-1/4" hose.
So what this tells me is, if a lid is worth anything (which
most agree) then descreening the MAF is worth about
the same. Or likely more, because the screen drag has
got to go turbulent way earlier than lid.
Only the MAF messes with fueling as well as airflow, so
you could lose what you gain until you fix it up right.
drop on a screened MAF and found it roughly equal to
the drop from stock lid / silencer. Descreened the drop
was not measurable. I used a shop vac and could pull
2" H2O on the screened MAF, through the 1-1/4" hose.
So what this tells me is, if a lid is worth anything (which
most agree) then descreening the MAF is worth about
the same. Or likely more, because the screen drag has
got to go turbulent way earlier than lid.
Only the MAF messes with fueling as well as airflow, so
you could lose what you gain until you fix it up right.


