Why Does My Trans Am Run On The Hotter Side?
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Why Does My Trans Am Run On The Hotter Side? Ok I will try and make this short and descriptive as I can....
I have manual fans in my car, I tapped into the PCM ran wires to the car usign LEDs for LO and HIGH fans. I also have a switch so at any time I can override the computer.. My LO fan is set to turn at 190ºF (green LED) goes off at 180ºF. HIGH ran is set turn on at 220º (green and red LED) goes off at 200ºF..
Couple other side notes. I also have the chrs1313 FTRA and a 160 T-stat
So when I am driving really, doesnt matter the temp (except winter b/c my car is not a dd) my aftermarket water temp gague will go to 220º and turn my high fans on. That is if I am in stop and go traffic. If I am crusing my LO fan is ALWAYS on.. Why is that? I have a 160 T-stat my LO fan is always on. I just dont get it.
I need swap either my sending unit out or get my gauge recalibrated (that's another issue all in itself) bc it reads 35ºF on the cold side. Everyone that I have talked to that has a 160 T-stat and that has an aftermarket water temp says their cars run at 180ºF
So what's my problem??
I did a coolant flush in 2006, again my car is not a DD so since then I've put <3,000 miles on the car. Radiator is full of coolant.. Overflow tank has coolant as well..
Anyone???
I have manual fans in my car, I tapped into the PCM ran wires to the car usign LEDs for LO and HIGH fans. I also have a switch so at any time I can override the computer.. My LO fan is set to turn at 190ºF (green LED) goes off at 180ºF. HIGH ran is set turn on at 220º (green and red LED) goes off at 200ºF..
Couple other side notes. I also have the chrs1313 FTRA and a 160 T-stat
So when I am driving really, doesnt matter the temp (except winter b/c my car is not a dd) my aftermarket water temp gague will go to 220º and turn my high fans on. That is if I am in stop and go traffic. If I am crusing my LO fan is ALWAYS on.. Why is that? I have a 160 T-stat my LO fan is always on. I just dont get it.
I need swap either my sending unit out or get my gauge recalibrated (that's another issue all in itself) bc it reads 35ºF on the cold side. Everyone that I have talked to that has a 160 T-stat and that has an aftermarket water temp says their cars run at 180ºF
So what's my problem??
I did a coolant flush in 2006, again my car is not a DD so since then I've put <3,000 miles on the car. Radiator is full of coolant.. Overflow tank has coolant as well..
Anyone???
I believe that chrs1313 FTRA blocks a good portion of the radiator, for one thing, right? Plus you have a UDP which drives the water pump less, right?
Did you get your PCM reprogrammed for the fans when you put in a lower tstat?
Did you get your PCM reprogrammed for the fans when you put in a lower tstat?
with chrs1313 in stop and go traffic just sucks in the hot air by yr radiator and your car will run 220 or more tuned my buddies car had one but once he was moving droped down to 180 fast. sure the radiator doesnt have a plastic bag on it somewhere
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Even when I am crusing sometimes my temp will go up to 220, then the HIGH fan will kick on and drop the temp back down.. But when I am crusing I have moving air.. My car shouldn't heat up that much.. I can see it doing that in stop and go traffic
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Im having the same problem as you are. I'm trying to trace down the problem. If I find it, I'll be sure to let you know, so that you may try it as well. Would appreciate the same. Our cars sound like they're set up pretty close, except for the manual fans. I'm gonna try a new 160 stat and see if thats it. I'm thinking it's not opening fully. It's about 5yrs old and only about $20 to replace. Figure that would be the cheapest route at the moment since I did a flush in '08. Water pump isn't leaking and with the radiator cap off I can see a good strong stream from it. The water line is right at it which is why I can see it before anyone suggests I'm low on antifreeze, and I've rinsed the condensor and radiator free of debris. Just taking the next step I guess.
Last edited by blue98Z; Jul 13, 2010 at 02:55 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo Regardless, you have a few things going against you here:
1. More power output than stock, and by quite a bit
2. An underdrive pulley that is turning the water pump slower at all RPMs
3. I'm guessing a stock radiator - there are plenty of people that run them at that power level and higher with no issues, but with #4...
4. Blocking off a significant amount of airflow with the ram air setup
...that ain't helping.
This is going to be something that will require some experimentation to see what the major cause is here. You are pushing the limits of what the stock stuff can handle - the GM engineers probably knew that people would mod these cars, but they didn't have to take that into account when everything was designed...after all, if you mod it, any design assumptions that were made are thrown out the window. I think what you are seeing is a shortcoming of stuff that was designed around 300-ish RWHP and unobstructed airflow...
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Im having the same problem as you are. I'm trying to trace down the problem. If I find it, I'll be sure to let you know, so that you may try it as well. Would appreciate the same. Our cars sound like they're set up pretty close, except for the manual fans. I'm gonna try a new 160 stat and see if thats it. I'm thinking it's not opening fully. It's about 5yrs old and only about $20 to replace. Figure that would be the cheapest route at the moment since I did a flush in '08. Water pump isn't leaking and with the radiator cap off I can see a good strong stream from it. The water line is right at it which is why I can see it before anyone suggests I'm low on antifreeze, and I've rinsed the condensor and radiator free of debris. Just taking the next step I guess.
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Maybe nothing, but it is always good to have a couple of data points to see if everything is running hot or if it is just the coolant - high oil temps would drive high coolant temps even higher, so it is something that might be worth finding out.
Regardless, you have a few things going against you here:
1. More power output than stock, and by quite a bit
2. An underdrive pulley that is turning the water pump slower at all RPMs
3. I'm guessing a stock radiator - there are plenty of people that run them at that power level and higher with no issues, but with #4...
4. Blocking off a significant amount of airflow with the ram air setup
...that ain't helping.
This is going to be something that will require some experimentation to see what the major cause is here. You are pushing the limits of what the stock stuff can handle - the GM engineers probably knew that people would mod these cars, but they didn't have to take that into account when everything was designed...after all, if you mod it, any design assumptions that were made are thrown out the window. I think what you are seeing is a shortcoming of stuff that was designed around 300-ish RWHP and unobstructed airflow...
Regardless, you have a few things going against you here:
1. More power output than stock, and by quite a bit
2. An underdrive pulley that is turning the water pump slower at all RPMs
3. I'm guessing a stock radiator - there are plenty of people that run them at that power level and higher with no issues, but with #4...
4. Blocking off a significant amount of airflow with the ram air setup
...that ain't helping.
This is going to be something that will require some experimentation to see what the major cause is here. You are pushing the limits of what the stock stuff can handle - the GM engineers probably knew that people would mod these cars, but they didn't have to take that into account when everything was designed...after all, if you mod it, any design assumptions that were made are thrown out the window. I think what you are seeing is a shortcoming of stuff that was designed around 300-ish RWHP and unobstructed airflow...
So yes I am talking about chrs1313...There has to be something else going on...
trying cleaning out your condenser, if I'm not moving my car gets up to the center mark and the fans kick on and it drops down half way to 180 and then it goes up again after a while and then it drops again. it did this during the winter too. but when I'm driving engine temps go back to normal. my A/C does the same thing its blows warm when I'm at a stop but then blows cold when i start to drive. i have not cleaned out my condenser out yet, but I'm almost 100% sure that's what it is. in my case anyway.
just an idea
just an idea
Well I might have to disagree with you about the more power thing. My buddies 02 Z.. He has H/C/I making almost 500 RWHP, uses stock radiator and not sure about the water pump but his car runs at 180ºF.. And he has the chrs1313 ram air set up.. What he's the inventor of it So yes I am talking about chrs1313...
There has to be something else going on...
So yes I am talking about chrs1313...There has to be something else going on...
Your fan should not always be on. The fans should turn off at a certain MPH, not be on all the time. I think its normally 35mph.
I would reccomend you remove the radiator and clean it out thoroughly, my car was coming up to 220* FAST when I stopped at a light, I cleaned out the condenser and completely removed the radiator and cleaned it and it now doesn't go past 180* even in the hottest weather. I still have a stock thermostat too.
I don't think your ram air has anything to do with it, after all the car has a huge piece of plastic blocking the radiator right from the factory. The air is supposed to come from the bottom, I don't think the ram air will have too much affect on that.
I would reccomend you remove the radiator and clean it out thoroughly, my car was coming up to 220* FAST when I stopped at a light, I cleaned out the condenser and completely removed the radiator and cleaned it and it now doesn't go past 180* even in the hottest weather. I still have a stock thermostat too.
I don't think your ram air has anything to do with it, after all the car has a huge piece of plastic blocking the radiator right from the factory. The air is supposed to come from the bottom, I don't think the ram air will have too much affect on that.
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The FTRA set up I feel doesnt play a role in this... Yes I do have an UDP, again doubt that has anything to do with it. And yes I had my fans programmed to come on earlier than the stock setting
The plastic/ABS air deflector mounted under the nose of the car has a lot to do with cooling the car while it's moving. If it's damaged or otherwise not stiff enough to do its job, the car will run hot while running above the fan configuration (~35mph as somebody else pointed out).
And you really need to figure out why your fans are running constantly, somewhere you have a wiring glitch and until it's resolved you will be chasing your tail.
And you really need to figure out why your fans are running constantly, somewhere you have a wiring glitch and until it's resolved you will be chasing your tail.
The plastic/ABS air deflector mounted under the nose of the car has a lot to do with cooling the car while it's moving. If it's damaged or otherwise not stiff enough to do its job, the car will run hot while running above the fan configuration (~35mph as somebody else pointed out).
And you really need to figure out why your fans are running constantly, somewhere you have a wiring glitch and until it's resolved you will be chasing your tail.
And you really need to figure out why your fans are running constantly, somewhere you have a wiring glitch and until it's resolved you will be chasing your tail.
I had the same issue after my H/C/I went on only mine would run 230* verified by an infared heat gun shooting at the coolant temp sensor. My 98 guage was dead on. I bought a dual 1' core radiator and that solved it. My old radiator was not stopped up either..... Water ran out the bottom about as fast as you could pour it in the top so it was good......
I would pull the radiator Jonas and clean it real good...also make sure the condensor is spotless to since it is infront of the radiator...since the radiator will be pulled take the thermostat out and put it in some water on a stove and slowly heat it with a thermometer in the water to make sure it is opening 100 percent...
you should not have your fans on cruising above 35 and the temps should be alot lower...
maybe time to pull the ac haha...the hottest I ever get is 195 and that is stop and go traffic and I do not even have the bottom plastic air deflector on the car anymore...something up man my guess would be the thermo not opening all the way or dirty cond/rad...
let me know if you figure it out...you can always pull the ram air to rule that out too...
you should not have your fans on cruising above 35 and the temps should be alot lower...
maybe time to pull the ac haha...the hottest I ever get is 195 and that is stop and go traffic and I do not even have the bottom plastic air deflector on the car anymore...something up man my guess would be the thermo not opening all the way or dirty cond/rad...
let me know if you figure it out...you can always pull the ram air to rule that out too...