Like the title says. Has anyone seen real results?

 

dont know about a real noticable result but just like you want the intake cool the tb staying cool also is going to benefit you on the air temp somewhat

 

Hmmm....how do we know that the coolant isn't actually cooler than the TB? My coolant is only about 178 degrees normally. It gets about that under the hood oftentimes I bet. If the TB is naturally between 120-200 degrees without the coolant, I should think it's not much different with the coolant (especially since it just passes STRAIGHT through one very small nitch of the TB) and how much difference would this make on the quickly passing air?

Point being, it doesn't really matter. You're not going to know the diff one way or another.

 

yah you can only really feel the difference in the winter with temps below 40 degrees from my experience. And at that point most people say to hook it back up so whats the point? lol

 

if your looking for documented dyno proven results you'll be hard pressed to find them. just chalk up in the free mod every little bit helps catagory. in cali it doesnt get cold but i still wont do the mod.

 

I don't think you'll find any. The only benefit I see is less mess when you need to disconnect the coolant lines from the TB. That's the only reason I have mine bypassed.

 

worth it for power, no

worth it so you dont have to mess with 2 more hoses and coolant every time you take off the tb, yes

 

If you take your TB apart and look, I dont see WTF it does,

i would think it wouldnt do ****,

I just like to clean things up a bit and completely removed the hard lines off the TB.

 

I was just looking through their website and I find this:

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/tb-dyno.htm

i dunno where THEY got their 6.3 hp from.

Mahmood

 

probably the same place where slp got 6hp from there smooth bellows

http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...RTNUMBER=23065

 

I have not done this on my 98 but did on my 88. I drove down one road for about 2 miles then turned around and came back, the tb was so hot you couldn't really even touch it. Then I did the bypass and did the same drive, when I got back the tb was cool as a cucumber.. you won't notice the difference but every little bit helps. Also when you have cold air flowing into a hot area it creates turbulence. Just my $0.02..
Later all.

 

Just a minor example of how retarded I am. My car already has it done.

 

you wont feel the diff. but it dose help keep the TB cool
and the air going into the engine cooler.
and every 10* intake air temp. is equal to 1 octaine point higher
so it will help lower detonation.
and the under the hood temp dose not affect the TB temp very much
and not at all when driving, air is moving through the engine bay
and cooling it down.

 

From what I have read the coolant running thru the TB makes just enough heat to keep the throttle plate from freezing up in winter. Won't actually "heat" the intake air.

 

It makes R&Ring the T/B easier because you don't have to deal with hose clamps, hoses, or coolant loss.

 

I think that freezing thing is BS.....I'm sure it COULD happen. But I've driven my car in zero degree temps countless times w/ no problem at all. The car is usually warmed up by then but even when going on a cold start...no problems.

My intuition tells me it's a lawsuit stomper....just in case it sticks on someone and they go flying down the road w/ no control. That would not bode too well for GM.

 

that is all it is for,so if you dont live in canada, or alaska
you dont need it to be heated.
aircraft have their carbs, and TB. heated because their flying up
there where it is -40* and a lot cooler.
and it dose heat the air up some,
in test i have seen as much 135*F. (in extream testing) diff.
the TB. is aluminum and a great heat conductor, so it will conduct,and release
heat if it is present.
if the bypass is done the only heat that is present is from the intake manafold
and the ambient air,and the manafold is composit so it dont conduct heat
as much,and the air in the engine bay dose not get that hot( if no exhaust leaks, and enginebay vents are not stopped up) maybe when at a light or in heavy traffic, but on the hwy the air is moving through the enginebay pretty good so it dosent get that hot.
i did my TB bypass soon after i got my car, and i did befor and after testing
and there was a pretty big diff.( with laser temp gun) an average of 63*F.
diff. can even feel the diff.
cooler and more dense air charge,= higher C/R, and helps prevent detonation.

 

probably allows you to run maybe an extra degree in timing too possibly. Its worthwhile to see if it works at the track. I'm gonna try it next I go .

 

I ran my car which has the TB bypass mod today with temps ranging from 5* to 22* with no ill effects.I have driven it in -10* whether with again no ill effects.

 

You ever drove in dense fog in winter? That's alot of moistiure if your going to suck in.
But then there's the air filter which can stop it in the first place but not well for moisture...

Think about a vaccum cleaner, it constantly sucks in alot of air, the same goes for the LS1 which also depends on the speed and the type of induction intake setup (from the opening to the throttlebody)
so the faster you go, the faster the air will be sucked in at a given RPM which in cold icing conidtions can cause a icing hazzard which would means your losing power before you noticed it.

Say you go from location A to location B for a short break, then back in the car to continue to location C, the engine keeps cutting out due to lack of air everytime you attempt to speed up to speed.
Would you rather have more hassle if this happened or none at all if it was prevented in the first place by throttlebody heat and that means getting out of the car into the cold to check it out?

There's an thick gauge steel wire cable going from one of the top coolant balance pipes to the PCV which is for heat also.

As you can see in a recripiocating engine operation for aircrafts, they have carb heat for the carb and also for throttle bodies for fuel injected engines too, it also states icing can occur even when there's no icing present outside. The icing can cause a loss of power when it builds up in the venturi and reduce the volume of the air coming in and it will increase icing buildup.

As GM tests these cars from the Death Valley to extreme colds as in Alaska, they have to ensure it will work in all climates as possible to see if the A/C is good enough, can withstand extreme temps, and extreme colds without problems for defogging and heating purposes and more.

Kinda like if it can go from FL to AK roadtrip for endurance testing.