Battery, Alternator, or Coil Pack Problem?
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Battery, Alternator, or Coil Pack Problem?
To start off with sorry Im new to the fourms so please dont hate me if this was already asked.
My 2000 WS6 Trans Am has recently been running very rough on start up and has also been stalling while I am driving. I just recently installed a new camshaft and timing chain which could also add to the issue. I just installed new spark plugs less than 4 months ago and from what i was told my brother check my coil packs and he said 5 out of the 8 were bad. I was still able to drive my car, but it had very rough start ups and it was very rough at idle, to the point where it was stalling while I was driving. The other day as I was driving home my voltage was dropping considerable at idle, and if I didnt keep the idle up I was afraid the car would die in traffic, but I managed to get it home. When I tried to start it today the voltage was down to 8 and was unable to start. I would just like to know what my problem is. I thought it was the coil packs but now I'm debating if it is just a bad battery or alternator. I have a duralast gold, and I also just replaced my alternator about 4 months ago along with the spark plugs. What could this problem be? Thanks for the help in advance.
My 2000 WS6 Trans Am has recently been running very rough on start up and has also been stalling while I am driving. I just recently installed a new camshaft and timing chain which could also add to the issue. I just installed new spark plugs less than 4 months ago and from what i was told my brother check my coil packs and he said 5 out of the 8 were bad. I was still able to drive my car, but it had very rough start ups and it was very rough at idle, to the point where it was stalling while I was driving. The other day as I was driving home my voltage was dropping considerable at idle, and if I didnt keep the idle up I was afraid the car would die in traffic, but I managed to get it home. When I tried to start it today the voltage was down to 8 and was unable to start. I would just like to know what my problem is. I thought it was the coil packs but now I'm debating if it is just a bad battery or alternator. I have a duralast gold, and I also just replaced my alternator about 4 months ago along with the spark plugs. What could this problem be? Thanks for the help in advance.
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The tune wouldn't cause a charging problem, it sounds like the alternator is bad. Charge the battery for a few hours and see if it will run right until the voltage drops. If you have a meter then put the leads on the battery and see if the voltage does anything. It should be at 12ish with the engine off and around 14.4 running. If it is not then the alternator is likely bad, if the voltage is up there and it drops way below 12 when you shut it off it's likely the battery.
If the car has had charging issues in the past I recommend doing the "big 3 upgrade" which consists of changing the charging cable from the alternator to the battery, the ground from the battery to the body and also the ground from the engine to the body with new wire, at least 4 gauge.
I'm not saying you don't need to get the car tuned, you definitely do, I'm just saying it wouldn't cause this issue.
If the car has had charging issues in the past I recommend doing the "big 3 upgrade" which consists of changing the charging cable from the alternator to the battery, the ground from the battery to the body and also the ground from the engine to the body with new wire, at least 4 gauge.
I'm not saying you don't need to get the car tuned, you definitely do, I'm just saying it wouldn't cause this issue.
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Any change in cam (other than an identical stock one) will vary the time the valves are opened and the spark timing will not match wiithout a tune. I strongly suggest getting it tuned after you track down the electrival problems.
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That's fine, it won't hurt anything not having a tune with a similar to stock cam, you just won't see the potential of the cam. You need a tune because with the cam change comes valve movement change and you need to be able to adjust the timing and fuel to match the new requirements.