High Dollar Headers vs. Low Dollar Headers??
Id like to hear your thoughts & experiences.
My next go round I'm thinking about just spending the cash on stainless so I don't have this issue again. I have no intentions of selling the car & I'd rather not have to buy a third set of LT's in another 3-4yrs.
Now does quality of the ceramic coat come into play between brands, I do not know. But for the cost difference between stainless & ceramic coated I'd damn sure like to know. Thats why I bought ceramic in the first place, I didn't have damn near $900 to drop on just LT's alone. And honestly I'd still rather not spend that much if at all possible. The mark-up on stainless LT's is crazy outragous. There is no way these companies need to charge that much cause I know there isnt even anywhere near that in materials. They are making a killing on them priced as they are now.
here is the thread with pics pm if interested...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...bolt-rear.html
my dad has ceramic and his car has 17k miles on it and never sees even rain and they are starting to rust...jethot coated ceramic
How about power between the high dollar vs the low dollar? Is it worth it?
I see pacesetters & Hooker's going for 250-300 and the Kooks & QTPs going for 600-700. Thats a big chunk of money for a 5rwhp gain...
Just had a set of Kooks 1 7/8" swapped in...figured there was no reason to cheap out again on ceramics, even though the car isn't a daily now (haven't put more than 300 miles on it in the 6 months since I picked up a commuter car), and the slight bump in primary diameter (up 1/8" from the Pacesetters) and HVMC wouldn't hurt anything, although I didn't buy the Kooks with the idea of getting more power. The Kooks were surprisingly less expensive than I had thought they'd be, although a lot of that was "generous" sponsor pricing.
Stainless isn't cheap (I did metal fab design in a previous job, and the price of something like a relatively small 12ga S304 bracket was painful even for me, and I was just designing the things), but you are going to pay a bit more name premium on top of the materials costs. That's how it works regardless of what you buy, though.
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But...if money is an issue,you dont care about a little rust,(whats the big deal anyway?) ...then just get pacesetters like I did.
While the more expensive header companies MIGHT take more time on their product (although I seriously doubt it) The power gains DO NOT have anything to do with the material of the product. What you are paying for is the material and looks (IN MOST CASES.)
Personaly I dont believe its ever worth the money to buy stainless unless you have a showcar,or you find a good deal.
Would I like to have stainless? yes I would but not worth the money imo.
My pacsetters are just fine. Went 12.7 with just mods in sig and as far as looks go...iv had them for for over 6 months (up here in new england) and they may have a little rust but who gives a rats ***
But...if money is an issue,you dont care about a little rust,(whats the big deal anyway?) ...then just get pacesetters like I did.
While the more expensive header companies MIGHT take more time on their product (although I seriously doubt it) The power gains DO NOT have anything to do with the material of the product. What you are paying for is the material and looks (IN MOST CASES.)
Personaly I dont believe its ever worth the money to buy stainless unless you have a showcar,or you find a good deal.
Would I like to have stainless? yes I would but not worth the money imo.
My pacsetters are just fine. Went 12.7 with just mods in sig and as far as looks go...iv had them for for over 6 months (up here in new england) and they may have a little rust but who gives a rats ***










