I just had this problem. I ground my K-member when I installed my headers. It wasn't nearly enough. The way I did it was to jack the car up and put it on jack stands and get drimmel and a long pry bar. It took two people to do it. My brother wedged the pry bar in between the collector and the bottom of the car. He pushed the header over enough for me to get a drimmel (spelling?) bit in between header and the k-member. You will need the bit that looks like a SMALL cylinder. You will need at least 2 or 3 of the bits, I broke 2 of them. Then just grind until you are sure you will have enough room and then grind some more. It took me about 30-40 minutes of steady grinding to get mine enough. Still could use a little more but I was tired of grinding. Also wear safety glasses unless you don't mind going to the hospital to get metal shaving removed from your eyes. Also try to keep your mouth closed, I didn't and I had a mouth full of metal I hope this helps you. Good luck.

 

Does anyone have a picture with a k-member or a really good description of what it looks like?

 

i still say a sawsall is the best way...it took all of about 20 seconds to cut what needed lol grinding takes too long for me

 

I agree 100%. Don't do the grind unless you don't have any other way. It is a pain in the ***.

 

I don't see how you can cut it, there's no room, the k-member and the header are 100% in contact.

 

dunno what to tell ya...i cut it with the headers already on, mounted, tightened down so uh i dunno

 

Need to cut mine as well. Put a high temp. hose in there for now(too stop bad rattling). But if you dont wanna do it yourself just take it to a shop where they can cut it off with a torch and 10 bucks later. The headers will handle the side heat enough till the k-member is cut.. Thats what they told me anyways... Let me know what works best for you?

 

Think an exhaust shop could do it for me?

 

Absolutely. All one would need would be a sawzall or a blowtorch and a crowbar (I used the latter).

 

Just loosen the headers and you will be able to move it enough to get a sawzall in there to cut it.

 

With the torch method, you just heat that bastard up and use the crowbar to bend the metal lip back?

 

lets see if my picture work in here

 

Exactly. It took about 10 minutes. I held the crowbar and my mechanic friend held the torch. Just heat the kmember up until it's red-hot and then bend/pry it back. It was quite easy.

 

Sounds like that's what I'm gonna look in to

 

yup, just watch 02 wires.

 

........ seventeen years later.... talk about necro-posting....

 

I thought the OP was using a hand file and just now finished, lol.

 

Now that you mention it.......... NAAWWWWW!!!! LOL
I always look at the thread titles where listed and mentally answer them before clicking on them.
My answer for this one was "with extreme prejudice..."

 

This is actually a helpful thread. Next time I'm under the car I'll have to check clearance. Is this an issue mostly with 1 7/8 headers or 1 3/4 as well? Might be able to grind that with a roto zip.