How the hell do I grind my k-member?
How the hell do I grind my k-member? Today I went to the hardware store and tried a couple different tools to grind my k-member. None got even close. How does anyone try to grind their k-member when the header is in the car? I don't even see how you can grind it. There is no room between the header and the k-member at all.
If anyone can offer me some feedback that'd be awesome, I'm totally at a loss.
If anyone can offer me some feedback that'd be awesome, I'm totally at a loss.
duh check out my sig for install notes including what part of the KMEMBER you have to cut...please god somebody make a sticky for these friggin headers...im starting to feel like this is all im good for 
Originally Posted by ShadowLightCSU
The front say...two oclock of the part the Pace Setters are rubbing on needs to be notched so my car quits shaking. Using a stock k-member.
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Verdad Gallardo first off you say "the front say" the front of what? My page? Pacesetters directions?
two oclock of the part the Pace Setters are rubbing on needs to be notched so my car quits shaking. Using a stock k-member- this sentence makes little or no sense whatsoever...two oclock of what? the primary tubes? or the Kmember? Then I dunno at the end I guess your just telling everyone youve got a stock kmember? Im no genius with the english language but damn if you didnt just mangle it even further
two oclock of the part the Pace Setters are rubbing on needs to be notched so my car quits shaking. Using a stock k-member- this sentence makes little or no sense whatsoever...two oclock of what? the primary tubes? or the Kmember? Then I dunno at the end I guess your just telling everyone youve got a stock kmember? Im no genius with the english language but damn if you didnt just mangle it even further
LOL, I won't mention my major.
Two o'clock of the k-member where it gets close to the header. I should have specified k-member, but the "rubbing on" did denote it.
Without photos of it, I have a hard time describing the situation.
Edit: Your page is up now. This part: http://www.geocities.com/foff667/kmemberclearance1.JPG
Two o'clock of the k-member where it gets close to the header. I should have specified k-member, but the "rubbing on" did denote it.
Without photos of it, I have a hard time describing the situation.
Edit: Your page is up now. This part: http://www.geocities.com/foff667/kmemberclearance1.JPG
I guess I will read all your install stuff before we even get started on our install and just go ahead and take care of that k-member. If people would read about stuff before they buy it so they know what to expect there wouldnt be so many post like this 
So far that sounds like a winner. One friend mentioned trying to find a place with a plasma cutter to do it for me. But I wonder if places wouldn't do it for some strange liability reason.
I used my sawzall with a 14 tooth metal blade. I put my headers in, didn't tighten them down & found all of the tight spots, then I went at it with my SawZall, remember that your car needs to be high enough to work with the SawZall. From the clearance that I saw after my headers were tightened down you can get a sawzall blade behind the headers to do the notching of your K member. Remember SawZall blades are highly flexible, you will destroy at least 1 blade doing this operation, but it's worth it. And if yoiu don't have a sawzall, this gives you a damn good excuse to buy one of these have to have items.
The dremel idea isn't a bad thing, but remember that it takes about 10 times as long to grind & clearance with a Dremel, when it takes about a minute or 2 to notch the K member with a SawZall.
The dremel idea isn't a bad thing, but remember that it takes about 10 times as long to grind & clearance with a Dremel, when it takes about a minute or 2 to notch the K member with a SawZall.
Unless you get a good straight shot at your header, the sawzall blade will just bounce off of the header, but there is enough clearance so you won't have to worry that much. The sawzall comes in handy for cutting off that little nibblet of aluminum off of the block on the drivers side to make the header slide on easier too. 