02 ss a4 misfire
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02 ss a4 misfire
car has 81,000 miles it's completly stock. i've searched threw 5 or more pages tagged with "misfire" and other key words associated with this problem. and most problems are from header installs and cars with alot of work done to them.
mine has set a flashing cel and i pulled the plugs. 1,3,5,7 were black 2,4,6,8 looked normal, awesome, i thought i narrowed it down to the o2's. switched out the drivers pre cat o2, reconnected the batt, cranked it and no change. so i'm going to replace both drivers o2.
i noticed when i fired up the car for the first time in a month it was "missing" on startup(could be from sitting). it also was "missing" after i reconnected the batt on startup while in open loop? tomarrow i'm going to pull the plug wires and check them, also going to check the fuel injectors. i ordered scanner that i hope will help me out while working on this thing should be here tomarrow.
i hope i can offer more info tomarrow..
to top it all off i test drove it and 3rd and 4th are slipping i love this thing...
mine has set a flashing cel and i pulled the plugs. 1,3,5,7 were black 2,4,6,8 looked normal, awesome, i thought i narrowed it down to the o2's. switched out the drivers pre cat o2, reconnected the batt, cranked it and no change. so i'm going to replace both drivers o2.
i noticed when i fired up the car for the first time in a month it was "missing" on startup(could be from sitting). it also was "missing" after i reconnected the batt on startup while in open loop? tomarrow i'm going to pull the plug wires and check them, also going to check the fuel injectors. i ordered scanner that i hope will help me out while working on this thing should be here tomarrow.
i hope i can offer more info tomarrow..
to top it all off i test drove it and 3rd and 4th are slipping i love this thing...
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oh.. i ment to mention that i replaced the plugs and wires. acdelco iridium plugs all .55 and 8.5 msd's
i pluged the scanner to the car and it pulled a P0134 bank 1 sensor 1.
i bought some ngk tr55 plugs. two new denso o2's and going to see where that gets me. i'm going to pull the acdelcos and replace them with the ngk and replace the b1s1 o2 with a new o2 then fire her up
i'm a noob with the scanner but i was watching the o2's.. this is live data at idle up to operating temp
b1s1 stayed right around .435 - .445
b1s2 around +/- .600-.630
b2s1 +/- .070 - .800 it's normal?
b2s2 +/- .835 - .840
i'm going to try and post the videos but they may be hard to read i used the video off my droid..
i pluged the scanner to the car and it pulled a P0134 bank 1 sensor 1.
i bought some ngk tr55 plugs. two new denso o2's and going to see where that gets me. i'm going to pull the acdelcos and replace them with the ngk and replace the b1s1 o2 with a new o2 then fire her up
i'm a noob with the scanner but i was watching the o2's.. this is live data at idle up to operating temp
b1s1 stayed right around .435 - .445
b1s2 around +/- .600-.630
b2s1 +/- .070 - .800 it's normal?
b2s2 +/- .835 - .840
i'm going to try and post the videos but they may be hard to read i used the video off my droid..
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cant get the video to load its a 3gp file my computer dont support.
i replaced the plugs and made damn sure the wires clicked on bank 2. it got dark on me so i will for sure finish the other side and o2 tomarrow..
side note swaping plugs on this car is alot easier then it looks. after you remove the coil pack and air tube its cheese work. i'm hopeful that this set of plugs and the o2 will be the ticket but we'll see tomarrow
i replaced the plugs and made damn sure the wires clicked on bank 2. it got dark on me so i will for sure finish the other side and o2 tomarrow..
side note swaping plugs on this car is alot easier then it looks. after you remove the coil pack and air tube its cheese work. i'm hopeful that this set of plugs and the o2 will be the ticket but we'll see tomarrow
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i did actually.. i never used them before, so i used some needle nose pliers to gap them to either .050 or .055. i didnt want to mess up the tip thing, i did'nt like the plugs.. but thats all i could get ahold of that day. but i picked up the ngk tr55's at o'reillys today and checked all plugs were abt .055 so i'm not going to change them.
the acdelco were all diff gaps.. from like .025 - .040 and no protective caps when they are packaged so it's no wonder.. and at like $6+ dollars a plug i think it was a wast of money.. but i'll keep them and put them in my yota..
the acdelco were all diff gaps.. from like .025 - .040 and no protective caps when they are packaged so it's no wonder.. and at like $6+ dollars a plug i think it was a wast of money.. but i'll keep them and put them in my yota..
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all plugs and wires installed and secure!!!! i'm 100% on that.. while i was in there i remember reading where someone had problems with their air injection giving them crap.. i pulled the air to manifold tubes off and guess what.. bad check valves.
before i spend the money on check valves i'm going to make some block off plates, then see how it runs. i still have to switch out the b1s1 o2 the weathers kinda nasty in ga.
question the part of the air system monted on the drivers head, i pulled the vaccum line off the top of that black plastic part, what T fitting needs a screw or cap? what all do you remove? i removed just the black thing whats held on with a 15mm bolt to the back of the head.
before i spend the money on check valves i'm going to make some block off plates, then see how it runs. i still have to switch out the b1s1 o2 the weathers kinda nasty in ga.
question the part of the air system monted on the drivers head, i pulled the vaccum line off the top of that black plastic part, what T fitting needs a screw or cap? what all do you remove? i removed just the black thing whats held on with a 15mm bolt to the back of the head.
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Remove all of it, when you have it all out, including the pump, then it will look like this(ignore the EGR thing in the middle, you dont have that on the 02):
If your talking about whats on the drivers side head:
just remove it, you will be fine. You will get a SES light for the AIR system, but it shouldn't effect performance once you have the blocks on. You can get it tuned out later. Just trace the small vac tube from the back circle to the black square thing thats mounted near the drivers fuel rail, then trace the other vac line as it runs to a check valve, then trace it to I think is a T or Y fitting to the rear of the intake, you should be able to take the line that is running into the intake, and pull it from the T/Y and just plug it straight into the intake and then just remove the rest out of the car. Should look like this:
Hope this helps.
If your talking about whats on the drivers side head:
just remove it, you will be fine. You will get a SES light for the AIR system, but it shouldn't effect performance once you have the blocks on. You can get it tuned out later. Just trace the small vac tube from the back circle to the black square thing thats mounted near the drivers fuel rail, then trace the other vac line as it runs to a check valve, then trace it to I think is a T or Y fitting to the rear of the intake, you should be able to take the line that is running into the intake, and pull it from the T/Y and just plug it straight into the intake and then just remove the rest out of the car. Should look like this:
Hope this helps.
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thanx.. that helps..
also came aross this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
i'm pretty sure this will be cake after i get the plates and caps.
also came aross this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html
i'm pretty sure this will be cake after i get the plates and caps.
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i think i'm screwed...
plugs and wire are on and tight
new o2
scanned the pcm and all is good.
but.. that vibration is there, and hard.
i need to know how some of you guys can see weather or not what each cyl is doing. i assume all coils are fireing cause i have no codes. what scanners are you useing? a better then general obdii scanner? i need to do more tests but i'm at a loss now..
also if this makes any since my coolent level was low, and clear when i filled it up. i know what the logial answer is for this, but i need to know what to test and how to test it.
this sucks... please help
plugs and wire are on and tight
new o2
scanned the pcm and all is good.
but.. that vibration is there, and hard.
i need to know how some of you guys can see weather or not what each cyl is doing. i assume all coils are fireing cause i have no codes. what scanners are you useing? a better then general obdii scanner? i need to do more tests but i'm at a loss now..
also if this makes any since my coolent level was low, and clear when i filled it up. i know what the logial answer is for this, but i need to know what to test and how to test it.
this sucks... please help
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might need to add that it's not running hot and the oil is clean no water mix, and water is also clean and clear. but i dont know why there is water only in the car, i bought it like this.
Last edited by jsmith564; 11-04-2010 at 05:48 PM.
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ok...
so i put 2 gals of gass in her and started pulling wires off the coil packs one at a time. the code reader picked them up.. so i'm left to assume they are good there. started on the passenger side and put my hand on the rad cap and was hottttt poped that and bam
looked like a pot of boiling water. i dont know how i drove this car the 100 miles home and another 150 odd miles back and forth with out it ever running hot.
the head gaskets are tost..
so i put 2 gals of gass in her and started pulling wires off the coil packs one at a time. the code reader picked them up.. so i'm left to assume they are good there. started on the passenger side and put my hand on the rad cap and was hottttt poped that and bam
looked like a pot of boiling water. i dont know how i drove this car the 100 miles home and another 150 odd miles back and forth with out it ever running hot.
the head gaskets are tost..