MadFirehawk86

iTrader: (2)

The two on the back of the valve covers get blocked off. On the passenger valve cover the hose that goes to the throttle body stays as it is.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Correct. There is a plug for the driver side and one simply uses a vacuum cap on the rear passenger. The front passenger goes to the TB as normal. The valley cover hooks to the manifold behind TB. No more external PCV valve whatsoever if running '04 LS6 valley.

lq4240sx

I've got all 3 hooked up and getting a lot of consumption. Hopefully this is the issue.

lq4240sx

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really dont wanna pull the heads to do gaskets

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

^^ what does that kn breather line come from?

lq4240sx

Its coming off the passenger side valve cover. I have it routed in with the valley and a catch can at the moment but havent attempted to see if it fixed the problem. I was told I should just run the catch can and block off the driver side valve cover because it was over kill in my situation.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

With the LS6 valley cover the crankcase vapors/blow-by will get pulled up and out through the valley cover. So, for a complete evacuation of combustion chamber blow-by on both banks of the engine you need a fresh air inlet on both valve covers. I'd T both fresh air line together before attaching the fresh air line/hose to the throttle body fresh air outlet .. Now for the catch can run a length of 3/8" oil/fuel line hose from the valley cover outlet to the CC inlet, then run a length of hose from the CC outlet to the intake manifold passengerside vacuum port. With the one remaining port on the passenger side valve cover you can cap it, or hook up a breather filter with a check-valve so it'll only open the valve when crank case pressure needs to be released.

lq4240sx

Thanks! That sounds like a good plan! Where can I get those 3/8 check valves? I've looked and cant find someone that carries them.

Streetlegal?

iTrader: (25)

I have that small hose to go from the LS6 valley to the TB is anyone needs it. It came with my valley and I have a catch can set up.

chrisf

I have an 04 ls1 had a 98 ls1 mechanic put the pcv system back like the 98 had it with external pcv but I've read the 04 doesn't need it how should I run it right

chrisf

do you still have that hose

trey0153

iTrader: (3)

might be worth a shot,baffled breather
http://www.c-f-m.com/performanceparts/pc/CFM-Performance-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-LS7-Billet-Valve-Cover-Breather-1p4259.htm#.VDyl-qMpDFo

kj217

which makes two of us,,
anyone can help us find those vlaves?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I sent you both PM's, just keep in mind you'll still need some type of breathe filter to attach somewhere along the other end to catch the very slight amount of oil vapors it will release.

trey0153, that seem like a nice piece especially since it has everything you'll need, compact size, and fool-proof 1 second install. The only down side would have to be cost.

BrokeSolid

I'm not currently running PCV, but I have a breather style oil cap. The PO blew up the original engine and replaced it with one that had a PCV delete, but he hooked up the original PCV from the car with the breather oil cap. This caused the engine to high idle, and is how I bought it. It has an LS6 valley cover, but i'm not sure which one, i assume the one without PCV. It runs normal now that the PCV is totally capped off in all locations. It also doesn't have a catch can, but i haven't had any issue with oil anywhere or using any? Does this sound at all like everything is correct?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The way you have it hooked up is fine for a track only car that will see frequent oil changes and rebuilds, and it totally eliminates crankcase oil vapor deposits in the intake and heads. The down side for a street driven car is a continuous build-up corrosive combustion chamber blow-by contaminates in the oil, and increased levels of water in the oil. If you want to have a long engine life with doing oil changes at normal 2-3k mile intervals then you really need a PCV system to minimize engine oil contaminates. With the LS6 valley cover I always recommend a fresh air inlet to both the L & R valve covers to help maximize the removal of blow-by contaminates within the engine crank case. I use a T or Y to connect both sides together before running it to the throttle body for the metered fresh air source. If you have 2 ports on the passenger side valve cover cap 1 of them. The down side to the PCV system is getting a varying degree of oil vapor deposits in the intake manifold and intake runners on the heads. This is why I also recommend a CC so you can trap the oil vapor in the CC instead. If there's no PCV valve in your PCV system then install one after the CC and before the intake manifold PCV port. How much you trap depends on how efficient your CC is, and it's mounting location(further from engine heat is better), and your driving habits.
I'm sure I left something out since I'm trying to keep this short.

BlackDuk98

iTrader: (34)

I have been dealing with oil in the intake and oil consumption for years. Tried many different options with the same results. Both pcv valves, routings, single and dual catch cans etc. even with this new motor and dual catch can setup, after 30 miles it was amazing how much oil was in the super clean freshened up heads that i just put on.

Tearing down my original motor with 7k miles on these heads, the amount of deposits on the back of the valves was mind blowing. After seeing a Copo in person, i blocked the intake and throttle body ports, and ran both valve covers into a catch can with a breather, exactly like a Copo. With this unmetered air, i did notice the car running a little lean according to my wideband.

Anyways, that check ball breather cap mentioned above, since you cannot t them together, wouldnt it work ok to have that breather on both the driver and passenger valve cover and just cap the intake and throttle body off?

I am tired of dealing with all of this oil in the intake. I am just not happy at all with any pcv setup yet.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

A vacuum pump is the way to go IF you can swing the cost. Otherwise you could try running a line with a 1 way valve to the exhaust +30" past the O2 sensors(to prevent a false O2 reading). I'm not sure if you would get enough vacuum pull at +30" past the O2 sensors so you would have to check to make sure.