You can. Simple parts from Lowes actually for about 20 dollars. Some of my friends still run them. They are not as effective though.

 

I thank you all for the helpful input, I have put in so much time reading up on this and researching, asking questions. I have even read that even a catch can is not needed, just add inline small engine fuel filters with the pcv valve itself and change those every oil change.
Im still not sure, and hate buying stuff I don't need, but Ill pony up for a solution of keeping my induction tract dry.

 

The best thing instead of buying bandaids is to fix the problem. I am not saying forge the whole engine etc, but a nice set of file fit rings from Speed Pro and their hyper e pistons with a good hone/bore and hone will work wonders. I am sure most of the fbodies with stock engines could use a refresh anyway, as well as the C5s. That would fix most problems save for more extreme builds with loose tolerances/ring gaps.
That would be the essence of "ponying up" indeed, but it is often overlooked.

 

so you are allowed to tell people that their entire engine is wrong but I am NOT allowed to suggest that they are valve seals need to be replaced? You are something else bud.

 

You are absolutely right and that's exactly why my breather is closed when the can is in vacuum.

 

Yes, the entire engine. Including the headers too.
You sure didnt say it could be your catch can...

 

Thanks David.

 

We have ran MM catch cans for a couple years now and sell quite a bit of them to our customers for boosted applications with our turbo kits. The new options now available make them great to work with based on your needs, and the diagrams provided take all of the question out of how to set it up. Let us know if you need a MM can, especially with one of our kits!

 

I know, its not just GM...a lot of the Ford guys use them. But what your suggesting is a bit unrealistic for most to rebuild their bottom end with the hopes that it will stop oil in the intake. Not cheap either when your having someone else do it.

 

The dodge engines usually get a catch can and t stat as their first mod. You wanna see an engine eat alot of oil, look at an 03-08 hemi. Ive done a ton of them. Usually they prefer the diablosport catch cans. I do not know who makes them for DS.
I was basically saying most mass produced engines have this problem. Esp ones that build extra pressure in the crank case due to various reasons. To my knowledge though, and experience, the ls9 nor most ls7s (save for 06) have had a need for a catch can in quite a few fairly aggressive setups. While I am not sure on their exact specification difference between a mass produced ls and the hand assembled ones, it does seem to make a difference really. Or it could just be the luck of the draw.
In 2008-2010 the l92 and quite a fewof the 6.0 iron block l92 headed engines in the trucks had issues with dropping valves. Possibly not alot of tech heard about that, nor the issues with the nnbs 5.3s having oil consumption issues due to their change in ring packs. On the 5.3s, GM changed their ring pack and the problem was fixed. Even if you used a catch can on them, the rings were still deteriorating so it made no difference.
Maybe that helps shed some light on my views and why I will stand behind them.
I have personally built engines that have 0 issues with blowby and and have zero need for any breathers, catch cans, or anything else. It has a properly functioning pcv system and that is all it needs.
I do not do the machine work as I leave that up to professional machinists. The quality of the parts and the tolerances chosen will make a world of difference.

If they rebuild the bottom end and have it done correctly with even a set of file fit rings from speed pro which are inexpensive and good quality, they will likely see they will not need the catch can anymore. What is the difference in doing that and having peace of mind, or buying an expensive set of heads and still running any of the catch cans out there and still having oil consumption issues?
If the block is within spec to reuse the stock pistons, then a new set of rings and a quality hone doesnt seem too much over 1500-2k-3k that people will spend on just heads alone. That isnt including the intake and everything else.
There are people on here that change camshafts nearly every year sometimes. They justify that, but cannot justify building a quality bottom end? Maybe it is a question of downtime. I did say many posts ago that I understand when there are instances where a catch can is the only feasible means of keeping all the oil out of the crank case, but they are bandaids that dont fix the cause they only help the effect.

 

OK so I installed my new Catch can (mightymouse "draft" version) and it stumbles and buckles at Idle and wants to push through the brakes when stopped.. I double checked my connections and they are water tight and it sounds like a huge vacuum leak coming from the filter on the catch can.

I have the LS6 PCV and newer valve covers (port only on passenger front, rear drivers is capped off)

I have the clean side going from the passenger valve cover to the throttle body (like OEM) and I have the A-fitting going to the valley cover and the B-fitting going to the intake manifold.. Is that right?

 

what valley cover is that?

probably should have got pcv can for that layout, you are moving too much air behind the throttle body (assuming the valley cover is ls6)

i can either send you the pcv parts to leave it hooked like that, or cap the location at the intake manifold and run that hose to the throttle body port

here is a similar install with pcv valve to meter vac to intake


also if you could do a test and cover one fitting while applying a vacuum to (suck on) the other to make sure the breather is sealing properly it would be good. call me if you need on my personal cell 804threeonefour7966

 

Its the newer style LS6 valley with the integrated PCV attached to the underside

 

the ls6 valley covers that ive seen use a pcv valve or an additional fixed orifice from the outside like first picture

was the hose you removed like this


or like this


if it was like the lower one than only thing i can think of is that the pressure relief valve in the breather is sticking. it should seal when sucked on if the other fitting is covered.

 

it was the second one... earlier I took the breather off and the rubber seal thingy was half sucked into the breather tube so I pushed it back up into the breather itself and put it back on.. I started the car and it ran fine until I gave it a few revs from under the hood and the rubber seal got sucked back through the breather tube and started its stumbling dance again.

 

how bout that hmm pm me your paypal email and ill put some parts to fix it on the way to you. I have a thicker disc that will not collapse for you, and in case that doesnt work ill throw in the pcv upgrade

in the mean time you could hook it to a valve cover location not the valley cover on the dirty side.

or

instead of hooking to the intake vac, hook to the port on the throttle body.

 

I got it running back to normal by just putting the little rubber GM hose back on and then splitting the "clean side" hose from throttle body to VC with the catch can..


I know thats not the idea but its better than nothing..


I appreciate it good sir

 

My vote for funniest tech member goes to coSPEED. Keep being you.

 

coSPEED2 , do you happed to know thread size I'd need to mount a 1/4 turn ball valve on the bottom of my RX CC, I think it's 1/4" npt but I'm not 100% sure.
Thanks!

 

There should be a group buy for MM or RX catch cans...